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Rear window leak

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Kclyatt Enthusiast

Kclyatt

Posted
Posted

I’ve joined the leak club-6/20 build date Denali with slider E4 fuyao leak on passenger side with only 770 miles and no off roading or towing yet. After staying up to date on this entire thread I decided to tackle myself with painters tape on spoiler and glass edge and I used good old GE advanced silicone. Didn’t remove spoiler just cut tip to fit in groove and slowly filled (flows easily) until the top of glass edge. Removed tape and cleaned any residue with iso alcohol. Totally invisible repair and no issues with banged up trim or scratched paint. Longevity who knows but at least it’s leak free and easily removed if leaks again.

AAB0BD7B-6AC7-4E9A-A25D-D282893A0F99.jpeg

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Rocz3cqg
Rocz3cqg

Sliding Glass or / and Stop Light Module reported Leaking Situation             Contacts

ShamrockShooter
ShamrockShooter

Well my 2019 early build leaker was replaced with 2020 hopefully not leaker. No signs of an leaks on the window or headliner of the 2020 so fingers crossed. Very impressed with the 10 speed after th

Thomcat
Thomcat

No leaker here so can't do a 100% verification, but the problem seems to be with the spoiler design, regardless of weather the sealer leaks or not, and any cracks in the trim make it worse.  

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DSW1519 Enthusiast

DSW1519

Posted
Posted

Great idea and info Kclyatt. Please keep us updated on how you make out.

If (when) mine leaks I will do something similar. If I continue to have problems I will go the solid window swap and be done with it.

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Duramaxsky Enthusiast

Duramaxsky

Posted
Posted

It's been raining here at all different intensities. No leak yet. I still think the aftermarket will come out with a replacement that works. I will just pay the money and get that or go solid. If I had ordered the truck i would have had solid.

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Mike_F Enthusiast

Mike_F

Posted
Posted (edited)
Quote

I’ve joined the leak club-6/20 build date Denali with slider E4 fuyao leak on passenger side with only 770 miles and no off roading or towing yet. After staying up to date on this entire thread I decided to tackle myself with painters tape on spoiler and glass edge and I used good old GE advanced silicone. Didn’t remove spoiler just cut tip to fit in groove and slowly filled (flows easily) until the top of glass edge. Removed tape and cleaned any residue with iso alcohol. Totally invisible repair and no issues with banged up trim or scratched paint. Longevity who knows but at least it’s leak free and easily removed if leaks again.

2/20 LTZ build, slider, no visible frame crack yet and no signs of a leak,  but with an asterisk attached.

 

Installed a A.R.E. cap on my truck and did not want to have to deal with the "potential leak" problem down the road, that has been running for 170+pages and still seems of no concern and unresolved by GM.

Afraid I would eventually get the dreaded leak and have to have the cap pulled and stored just for the window repair.

 

I did the Permatex 81730 flowable silicone suggested by another member in some earlier posts.

I had thought about regular viscosity silicone but decided on the flowable type to seep into every nook and cranny possible.

Modified the tip to be flat and to fit between the spoiler edge and the glass, with a hole on the bottom face and the end tip intact.

Taped up everything  as Kclyatt described and added some tape on the vertical seams at the top of the plastic /glass because it runs everywhere, hence flowable.

Did 3 seperate applications about 3-4 hrs apart, across the entire top of the glass, starting in the middle and working to the left and right.

The separate applications allowed the silicone to set somewhat  and allowed me to build up and fill the entire void to the top of the glass edge and down around the corners and down the sides for about 6 inches.

I think I used 4-5   of the 1.5 oz  tubes and used the same modified tip on each tube during the application.

 

Have no idea if it has helped, but figured it was worth a shot compared to some of the leak repair nightmares that others have reported .

 

Think I will order some of that cord  for the spoiler front seam that someone was kind enough to post a picture of and the Amazon link.

 

Good Luck guys and girls.

Edited by Mike_F
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Leevon Enthusiast

Leevon

Posted
Posted
On 11/26/2020 at 2:43 AM, Ranger522vx said:

Has anyone actually had their slider replaced with a solid rear window?  I was quoted $630 from a glass company to have it replaced and was told it would be able to be swapped.  Just looking for any advice before I decide to go ahead and do it.  I haven’t had the dealership try and fix it because from what I’ve heard there is no permanent fix and I don’t want to risk the damage when they try the repairs.  What do y’all recommend?

I did this myself and had about $250 into it and the satisfaction that it was done right.  Do a search for my username, it's back in this thread.  

THE SILVERADO Enthusiast

THE SILVERADO

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, SilveradoRST said:

Do you mean you had your rear window replaced twice already?

Repaired, yes. First time was just a caulking job. Second was a complete back window replacement. 

UGADawgs Enthusiast

UGADawgs

Posted
Posted

Really good reviews for Permatex 81730 flowable silicone on Amazon. I'm tempted to go this route next time vs the dealer, although next time will be leak #4. If that happens before March, I'm in lemon law territory. 

Transient Senior Enthusiast

Transient

Posted
Posted
Has anyone with the rear slider been leak free?? Has anyone who had a leaker had a successful repair?

No leaks yet. 2020 built in June. Just washed her on Monday and looked for leaks. Truck was built with E9 back window.

 

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Jac365 Enthusiast

Jac365

Posted
Posted
41 minutes ago, Transient said:

No leaks yet. 2020 built in June. Just washed her on Monday and looked for leaks. Truck was built with E9 back window.

 

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It took just over 1 year before mine started to leak. Thought I escaped that issue, but I didn't.

RadBrad Enthusiast

RadBrad

Posted
Posted
On 11/20/2020 at 5:22 PM, Fizzery6 said:

The leaks in my 2019 rear slider were definitely from a cracked window frame.  I removed the spoiler and could see 3 cracks across the top immediately.  Then I carefully flowed a small amount of water over each window frame crack and bingo...water was leaking into the interior exactly where it had been during the rain. Kent P10200 sealer was applied per TSB 18-NA-383.  Lasted 6 months and now is leaking all over again on drivers side.

 

Inquired with Chevrolet dealer parts today about new glass and was told that GM part number 84569182 had recently been superseded to part number 84944319.  It was so new they couldn't find it in the dealer parts database, they had to look it up in the GM database.  Anybody know if the new rear slider glass part number includes any design or material changes to eliminate the frame cracking???  Dealer had no idea...

 

This would be great news if indeed there is a new design for that back window that has a more robust frame.  I think that just might help mitigate some of these leakers.  

  • Like 1
Dali555 Enthusiast

Dali555

Posted
Posted
21 hours ago, RadBrad said:

This would be great news if indeed there is a new design for that back window that has a more robust frame.  I think that just might help mitigate some of these leakers.  

I might be able to tell you soon. Mine is going in for new window tomorrow. I’ll see if I can get the part number off it or any other info from them. Hoping they don’t mess up my truck putting it in...

 

  • Like 2
RadBrad Enthusiast

RadBrad

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Dali555 said:

I might be able to tell you soon. Mine is going in for new window tomorrow. I’ll see if I can get the part number off it or any other info from them. Hoping they don’t mess up my truck putting it in...

 

Yea the more you can find out the better!  That's the exact reason I haven't had my dealer try, it might end up a mess, and not work.

n8huntsman Enthusiast

n8huntsman

Posted
Posted

My second window failed after exactly one year, to the day.  I noticed after washing it both times.  This time was shortly after our first frost.  Thermal cycling maybe?  Took about 9 days to replace with another new window.  I took it to a different dealer this time.  They did a much better job but unfortunately the damage had already been done by the first dealer.  However, as soon as I opened the door I immediately heard the sound of the pressure equalization flapper valve between the cap and bed.  Took a peak in there and guess what!  It was dislodged again lying between the bed and cab just like last time.  Took them over a month to get the part last time and a week to install it.  This time they ordered the part in about a week and we'll see how long the install takes.  They have to remove the bed to get to it apparently.  I've got a case open with GM waiting to see if theyll do a buy back.  I had the caulk job done, and now two windows so that should count as 3 repairs for the same issue.  If they don't do something to satisfy me I'll investigate the lemon law route because I have zero faith that this new window wont be leaking come next November.

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