Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

$32k from 40 is %80 of msrp, which is good, maybe check the invoice on it and work off the invoice instead of msrp.

Posted

in order for me to get 0%, i had to forfeit a 6500 dollar rebate. The cost of the loan at 2.59% was about 1800 over 60 months. Absolutely silly to leave cash on the table just to pay 0%.

 

Specifically, my case: Using my financing and rebates, my payment is $477 a month. Cost of interest was 1804. If i did 0% and gave up a $6500 rebate, my payment would be $555 a month.

 

That was just quick math. Im sure that there are other things that would need to be considered. At the end of the day you are paying the car payment. Whether you are paying an interest rate or not, it is all built in to the monthly amount. Lower the payment, the better for me.

  • Like 1
Posted

I called the dealer here in my area, and it was the same, in order to have the 84months/0%apr, you lose $6500.

I told them I was gonna wait April to see how the things go. Probably a little more in rebates due the sales volume (I bet are pretty low due Coronavirus).

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
2 hours ago, filipe1987 said:

I called the dealer here in my area, and it was the same, in order to have the 84months/0%apr, you lose $6500.

I told them I was gonna wait April to see how the things go. Probably a little more in rebates due the sales volume (I bet are pretty low due Coronavirus).

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 

I'm planning on waiting until April too! Last year with no health scare, April had $500 more in incentives.

 

I ordered a truck at the end of January and just got the call Tuesday that it was in. I'm in Illinois and the governor shut down bars and restaurants... I service bars and restaurants for a living so I am basically out of business right now! I still planned on buying it but was going to make them wait another week. If they can't wait then oh well... I'll go get the money I put down back then.

Posted
1 hour ago, Whipped500 said:

I'm planning on waiting until April too! Last year with no health scare, April had $500 more in incentives.

 

I ordered a truck at the end of January and just got the call Tuesday that it was in. I'm in Illinois and the governor shut down bars and restaurants... I service bars and restaurants for a living so I am basically out of business right now! I still planned on buying it but was going to make them wait another week. If they can't wait then oh well... I'll go get the money I put down back then.

Yeah I’ve been shopping around for ideas my lease is up in a few months. This would be my first truck so I had hoping if I could score a good deal now. But here in NJ things are shut down, I’m still working I’m an essential employee. I’ll have to see what deals they have in April. I don’t want my payments to crazy so maybe even some place would have a 19 left over

Posted

As this thing gets worse they will become more desperate. Totally agree April will be better 

Posted

Inventory likely will be tighter in April with plant shut down and coming off strike. But May/June likely to be bloody for them if we are in a full recession. Going to be lots of lease and year old trucks dumped at dealerships between now and then if this economic shutdown goes past April 3rd.  

 

Posted

dealer has the truck i want almost to a tee....its kind of a tough one to find, but only 4k off sticker so think ill wait....if they sell it that's fine.....know 2500 aren't same as 1500 but ill kick my self in 3 months if they drop quite a bit.....wouldn't mind the deferred loan either.....looked at laura and they have nothing

Posted

Went to a dealership today and checked out a 2020 AT4 with MSRP at 65k. They are asking for 52.5k for it. Should I get it now? On one hand, the economy may go further down but on the other hand, GM has shut down the plants and there won't be any new cars coming. 

Posted

That is about a 19.5% reduction on msrp which is impressive on the AT4. You may be able to push them to 50 plus tax, tag, and title.

Posted
I wish I would’ve waited a little longer. Bought mine 2 weeks ago and only got 9k off with rebates on a Trail Boss. But I’m also in Southern California which I noticed they sell a little higher. Would’ve had a little more bargaining power considering the economy now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wish I could get 9k off, here it’s only 7k right now, think I’ll play the gm lottery and bet on april


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Went to a dealership today and checked out a 2020 AT4 with MSRP at 65k. They are asking for 52.5k for it. Should I get it now? On one hand, the economy may go further down but on the other hand, GM has shut down the plants and there won't be any new cars coming. 

I’ll tell you what I did for reference. I found the exact truck I wanted with an MSRP of just over $66k. Managed a deal for $52.5 which is about 21.5% off on an AT4. Plus it’s the exact truck I want. Once we talked about it the dealer didn’t have a preference so I’m waiting until April to finalize the deal and get whatever incentives there are at that time. Now that could leave me paying more or less as the incentives change but I can’t imagine they get worse.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Wish I could get 9k off, here it’s only 7k right now, think I’ll play the gm lottery and bet on april


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So they’re only giving you 1k more than the rebate? Yeah I would wait if that’s the case. They went slightly under invoice for me. So 3k off then 6k rebate. They tried giving me 1k off in the beginning and I laughed and showed them there were plenty online deals that were a state away that gave 3k off plus rebate and I’ll be willing to drive. Their response was online deals were fake and false advertising. So I left the dealer and told them I’ll find out for myself. Literally 3 hours later they called me and said they’ll do it if I come back. My suggestion, find an online deal and use that as bargaining power.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

is it in the opinion of the forum that finding out the invoice, and working the rebates/discounts from that? and what about another discount, say the supplier discount-which I genuinely have? Just wondering how, when some of you say "I got them down to __".. how did you approach that? if I took the invoice on the truck I want, find the invoice, discount the 6500, and supplier, that's a good deal from $52,600 to right at $40,000, but i'm left wanting more since I've seen some trucks online with higher MSRPs that are cheaper than $39k.

Posted
is it in the opinion of the forum that finding out the invoice, and working the rebates/discounts from that? and what about another discount, say the supplier discount-which I genuinely have? Just wondering how, when some of you say "I got them down to __".. how did you approach that? if I took the invoice on the truck I want, find the invoice, discount the 6500, and supplier, that's a good deal from $52,600 to right at $40,000, but i'm left wanting more since I've seen some trucks online with higher MSRPs that are cheaper than $39k.

Probably depends on the dealer and the initial asking price. I got “supplier pricing” for being a first responder. Now what that means I’m not exactly sure. They had the $6500 GM rebate and gave me another $1000 in rebates for the first responder credit which apparently gave me supplier pricing... this is what they told me I was too concerned with the names they gave stuff just the price. I was then able to get just over $6000 off from the dealer for a total of just over $13,500 off. Not sure that helps but I feel like they all play games with names of discounts etc. I’d focus on the numbers not how they get there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,920
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Frank V
    Newest Member
    Frank V
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,043 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...