Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
I just bought my RST from AutoNation Gilbert. It was smooth. Talk to Robert, he's in the internet sales guy
Do you mind me asking what amount you got off MSRP? Without negotiating they gave me a price sheet of $34650 w/ tint on $45575 MSRP. $399 for tint seems excessive to me. Ideally I'd try to get them down to $12k off MSRP.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

Posted
6 hours ago, sdkraemer said:

Do you mind me asking what amount you got off MSRP? Without negotiating they gave me a price sheet of $34650 w/ tint on $45575 MSRP. $399 for tint seems excessive to me. Ideally I'd try to get them down to $12k off MSRP.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 

Yeah that tint fee is BS. MSRP was $50,980, paid $39189 but I had a trade in and got some money from that so financed a little less.

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Dmart said:

Yeah that tint fee is BS. MSRP was $50,980, paid $39189 but I had a trade in and got some money from that so financed a little less.

Agree, $399 is total BS. That's the kind of crap that gives dealers a bad name. 12k off is a good number. I bought mine in Boise ID from Dennis Dillion. Check their website. Their prices are posted . They have 2 SLT GMCs for 14k off. 

Edited by GymC
Posted
Yeah that tint fee is BS. MSRP was $50,980, paid $39189 but I had a trade in and got some money from that so financed a little less.
What's funny is two other dealers I've been talking to have around $1700 in add-ons installed. One just agreed to $12k off MSRP on a CC LT 2WD w/ all-star and safety package I if I do a trade-in. I already told them via email I'm only paying $200 tops on the add-ons, so I'm not sure if they remember that tidbit. This'll be interesting.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

Posted

Add-ons or dealer installed options is how they make money. The largest Ram dealer in the nation is Dave Smith in Idaho, try buying a truck from them without window tint, some BS coating on the paint and a bug guard or some other BS option.. as long as we pay it they will continue to add it. I bought my last Chevy from them, this time I refused to buy all their add ons, I ended up buying a GMC from Dennis Dillion..no add ons from them. 

Posted

Ya I generally refuse to pay for add-ons. The truck I'm eyeing with this dealer would need to do a dealer trade for it, so the other dealership is the one that installed everything. Not sure if the dealer I'm working with would generally put add-ons on their vehicles. 

 

Its all annoying. I also hate all of these conditional offers and crap. Autonation listed some $6k off MSRP as "Autonation savings" with no asterisks or annotation, but when I contacted them I only qualified for $5k of it because the vehicle I am trading in doesn't have low enough miles. Ordering my 2011 camaro w/ supplier was much easier back when they were new and hot. I also bought two new Honda pilots in the past two years because of a total and I never saw this level of BS with conditional offers from the Honda dealerships.

Posted (edited)

Anyone have good luck with a GMC dealer in Georgia? Most of the dealerships that I've briefly chatted with dont want to play ball which is surprising because there are two or three truck dealerships within throwing distance of each..

 

We have TAVT which is a tax which makes it very difficult/expensive to go out of state to buy a vehicle. If you buy it out of state you still have to pay the TAVT. The TAVT is a road tax and a sales tax lumped into one. Its 7.5% of the purchase total so not a small fee...

 

Edited by Chris walker
Posted

I got 3400 off for supplier, 2000 off for conquest, and 1500 off for GMF, for a total of 7k off a loaded LTZ with a sticker of 57,170. No trade. That's the numbers before TTL. No dealer add-on BS. They wanted to charge a 899 dealer fee, so I negotiated in wheel to wheel steps, front black bow tie, and tint to compensate. I figure they made holdback only, maybe some other hidden dollars, which is fair. I wasn't willing to drive to ATL or Miami to save a few hundred more to get the exact trim, color, and options I was looking for. Definitely more incentives on LT trim, but I wasn't interested in that trim level . Ymmv.

Posted

The interest difference between GMF, refi with local credit union, and paying it off asap will save more money than any of the numbers above. That's another 3-6k in interest.

Posted
11 hours ago, BringTheRain403 said:

I'm about $11k below MSRP on the AT4 I'm about to pickup. So like $56K on a $67K truck...

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

What dealer and where are they located are you working with? 

Posted

Pulled the trigger on a new satin steel AT4 this morning. MSRP was $64,995 price paid $55032 less trade for my 2016 Sierra 4x4 AT $36,712. I walked out paying $18,500. Pics will be coming next week.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/12/2019 at 10:00 PM, Jacksfan98 said:

What dealer and where are they located are you working with? 

 

Dave Pusa is great guy at Laura Buick GMC in St Louis.  Hundreds of 2019 Sierras at up to over $14,000 off msrp with or w/o trade or finance. They pick you up at STL airport and you can drive away in your new truck in under 2 hours if you set it all up in advance. Laura is largest volume GMC truck dealer in USA for a reason. Love their Lifted trucks, ATAs and Denali deals. Tell Dave that Mike from Columbus, Ohio and Russ from Chicago sent you for the best deal possible. Don’t mention Rudy from Chicago who didn’t buy and regrets it. Laura won’t be beat and you won’t need to haggle. If you don’t buy they will not hassle you with phone calls or emails, either you want the best deal on the best truck you can buy or you don’t. Check their website.  YMMV good luck!  

  • Like 1
Posted

I was at Van Chevrolet in Scottsdale yesterday. Over email they offered $12k off MSRP on a 2WD crew cab LT with all-star and convenience package II if I had a trade-in. Initially they offered $1500 on my regular cab 2009 WT Silverado trade-in, but they eventually went up to my price point at $5k. They also had $2104 in dealer add-ons, but at the end only $395 was listed on the price sheet for the zaktek.

 

I told them I needed until tomorrow to get everything squared away with family on my trade-in. They offered $6k on the trade-in at the end to try and get me to sign that day, but there was no way I could finalize.

 

The directors of sales told me the deal was too nasty for them to do tomorrow. It was a slow day for them and that's why they wanted it that day.

 

Not the most pleasant experience dealing with their upper management.40152e86399cde5bcdc8ef226712be92.jpg

 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 504 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...