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Posted (edited)
On 6/11/2024 at 9:24 AM, customboss said:

Finished testing DELO 600 10w30 and it stopped the oil usage significantly ( by 50% or so). However at 6,450 miles run on second oil drain the iron wear went to 18 ppm aluminum up to 5 ppm. Those are totally normal but its a rise of over 50% in iron wear indicated which actually may be iron rings seating better thus the less wear. However it oxidized since its not really synthetic and since it has NO ZDDP your most effective and cheap anti oxidant is not there so it thickened to something like a 15w35.  It still achieved exceptional MPG and operation was smooth and quiet.  

 

After about 2000-3000 miles on the fresh Delo 600 I will change to RLI BIOSYN 5w30 PCMO. 

 

Just warning that the DELO 600 is not suitable nor cost effective for this engine past say 5000 miles.  

 

 

Update test 10 of our 2022 LTD L3B various engine oil and FTIR data. 
 

Quick takeaways :

*OEM  air filter is critical to be changed often (5000 miles usually ) in dusty areas ( includes high pollen high humidity with dust).

*Fuel quality matters less than octane. E15-30 might be ideal to clean up gasoline additives deposits. 
*spark plugs cleanliness an issue especially if you drive moderately and are in 2cylinder cruise most of time. 2 outer fire/run while 2 inner glide but splash engine oil up into upper cylinder and cooling jets overcool the inner “dead” cylinders. At about 2000-3000 miles of use any engine oil tends to cause cold deposits especially if gasoline phenols and other poly additives are present in engine oil as fuels dilution post EGR will cause injector and plug fouling.  A KEY ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION ISSUE FOR WELL MAINTAINED TRUCKS DOING OEM RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE. 

 

 

Sorry for delay but my ugly assistant pictured below had me distracted......
 

10testsofunit580.thumb.jpg.9d6f920d26340b6d8febdea963974089.jpg

 

 

 

IMG_8610.thumb.jpeg.e8e4ba117cb80dd9acfcf53ac3756185.jpeg

 

Edited by customboss
figured out how to load the analysis pic.
  • Like 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, newdude said:

Just wanted to add to this.  Which ever engineers set up the cooling system on these 2.7s, I must say they've done a great job.  I just recently did some towing, about 100mi in some hot weather, maybe 4,000lbs?  AC cranking and everything was stable as can be.  Even transmission temps were well regulated and barely any hotter than when empty which surprised me, I had expected that to climb more.  I saw maybe 210F transmission temp?  Which I've seen empty on a hot and humid day before.    

 

Also, low speed high torque off road driving and hard, fast off road.  I just came back from the Chevrolet Experience dealer training, and one of the modules was the ZR2 Colorado/ZR2 Colorado Bison off road course.  Those trucks were running almost non stop from 8am until we got to that course at 1pm and they were unphased.  None of them had any signs of overheating, ac was on.  Lots of 4HI and 4LO with steep grades and twist ditches, and then a fast baja style rip with the pro driver.  One truck popped a tire, that was it. 

 

If anyone gets the chance to use a Colorado ZR2/Canyon AT4X as engineered, they are impressive and so is the low end ability of that engine in those scenarios.

You just confirmed what us PAWPAW drivers issues are. The damn engine even original L3B versions won’t overheat and probably run too cool on the non firing center cylinders allowing deleterious deposits. 
THX for sharing. 

Posted

No one has figured a way to keep this turbo 4 cylinder in 4 cylinder all the time yet???  Range type device or tuning???

  • Like 1
Posted
20 minutes ago, TheRiver said:

No one has figured a way to keep this turbo 4 cylinder in 4 cylinder all the time yet???  Range type device or tuning???

Place trans in Manual mode and down shift below 8th. Generally in my L3B 2022 LTD Trail Boss Custom setup if RPM > 2000 RPM you are in 4 firing. 
 

newdude may have a better GM centric answer. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well well well @ 61150 miles the EVAP purge pump failed and being emissions was sure it was covered under federal 80,000 mile 8 year warranty. WRONG 

Spent $107.89 for a new pump. Last one around region I guess. Installed pretty quick for a cripple and frankly glad not to have techs fingering my truck. However that’s some nickel and dime warranty coverage. I have extended warranty but it has a $100 deductible. First thing to break in 61,000 miles and 2.5 years. M

 

IMG_8743.thumb.jpeg.9245df05033b0f62b79d7202fef27d5a.jpeg

Edited by customboss
  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, customboss said:

Well well well @ 61150 miles the EVAP purge pump failed and being emissions was sure it was covered under federal 80,000 mile 8 year warranty. WRONG 

Spent $107.89 for a new pump. Last one around region I guess. Installed pretty quick for a cripple and frankly glad not to have techs fingering my truck. However that’s some nickel and dime warranty coverage. I have extended warranty but it has a $100 deductible. First thing to break in 61,000 miles and 2.5 years. M

 

IMG_8743.thumb.jpeg.9245df05033b0f62b79d7202fef27d5a.jpeg

Vehicles today just are not built to last, to many extra parts to break. I had to replace my fuel control module back by the spare tire.  $127 and all is well. Thanks to Youtube and various individuals that took the time to trouble shoot the code I had P0499.

  • Sad 1
Posted

i don't understand how gm can get around fixing problems that are listed under the federal emissions but they also told they would not cover the pcv fine oil separator on my truck. it is a 100 dollar part and the dealership wanted 10 hours @ 145 per hour. i did it my self and it did take 7.5 hours with some short cuts. but what amazes me is no one else has had this failure, considering how poorly the design is

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/24/2024 at 12:27 PM, TheRiver said:

No one has figured a way to keep this turbo 4 cylinder in 4 cylinder all the time yet???  Range type device or tuning???

 

 

Drive in L7.  

Posted
On 6/4/2024 at 1:45 PM, VicFirth said:

I take that back, I think ultimately the boutique oils with known high solvency are the way to go from the start.  Likely would never need Restor and Protect.  Good oil though for neglected engines.  

 

There was one thing though that Roger said that caught my attention was how polar base oils have historically been used to keep deposits at bay.  This oil goes further in actually removing them (dissolving).  But yet at the same time, the high ester original Restore accomplished cleaning in one change.  However that oil also used way more ester than any known brand I'm aware of.  Even HPL at most has likely no more than 20% of group V.  So keeping deposits at bay and engine clean vs cleaning is the interesting thing here.  At least to me.  We really don't know if HPL or Amsoil could clean existing deposits or totally prevent them.  

 

Sure you do: Many Red Line HP and R oils have oxidation levels between 80 and 125. GC shows them to be over 25%.

 

The question you can't get answered is WHICH ESTERS 😉 It matters. 

 

image.jpeg.f8921466770c100053899a02daaf7ec4.jpeg

 

  • Like 1
Posted
33 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Sure you do: Many Red Line HP and R oils have oxidation levels between 80 and 125. GC shows them to be over 25%.

 

The question you can't get answered is WHICH ESTERS 😉 It matters. 

 

image.jpeg.f8921466770c100053899a02daaf7ec4.jpeg

 

Thats an excellent oil analysis service you used. Show us your fuels dilutions and KF titrations. 

Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, customboss said:

Well well well @ 61150 miles the EVAP purge pump failed and being emissions was sure it was covered under federal 80,000 mile 8 year warranty. WRONG 

Spent $107.89 for a new pump. Last one around region I guess. Installed pretty quick for a cripple and frankly glad not to have techs fingering my truck. However that’s some nickel and dime warranty coverage. I have extended warranty but it has a $100 deductible. First thing to break in 61,000 miles and 2.5 years. M

 

 

 

 

Save any receipts for that.  If they expand the years in the special coverage on the purge pumps (which I'm highly betting will happen at some point), you should be able to get your money back on that.  

 

As far as warranty, purge pump falls under GM Emissions E so either 2yr/24k mi on vehicles with GVW < 8,500 lbs for federal emissions states, or 3yr/50k mi on vehicles with GVW < 14,000 lbs for CARB states (California, Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New Mexico, NewYork, Oregon, Pennsylvania, RhodeIsland, Vermont and Washington)

Edited by newdude
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 8/6/2024 at 5:26 PM, customboss said:

Well well well @ 61150 miles the EVAP purge pump failed and being emissions was sure it was covered under federal 80,000 mile 8 year warranty. WRONG 

Spent $107.89 for a new pump. Last one around region I guess. Installed pretty quick for a cripple and frankly glad not to have techs fingering my truck. However that’s some nickel and dime warranty coverage. I have extended warranty but it has a $100 deductible. First thing to break in 61,000 miles and 2.5 years. M

 

 

Where is the EVAP purge pump located?

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, fondupot said:

 

Where is the EVAP purge pump located?

Electric motor above intake passenger side center aft upper engine. 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, customboss said:

Electric motor above intake passenger side center aft upper engine. 

 

Ok, so it's relatively easy to get to for replacement. Knock on wood mine is still good at 107xxx miles. 

  • Like 1

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