Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1.50 wheel spacers, stock 20" wheels with 285/60R20 tires. 36ac46096a55c4af5cb1309d3509afba.jpg

Sent from my SM-N970U1 using Tapatalk

I know it's off topic but that's a really good picture. That truck looks really good with the grass and everything reflecting off it. Good job keeping it clean. I have the same color and I swear it rains every time I wash it. Literally washed it last Friday, went inside to shower, got out of the shower, and it was pouring. That's a really clean looking truck!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/14/2019 at 9:06 PM, Stormtrouper said:

Finally got my 2 inch spacers, etc....

20190812_175758.jpg

Hey Stormtrouper, are those the OEM Bushwackers, had mine installed last night, just looking at the spacing ?  Are those the factory wheels ?     I'm concerned the spacers are going to shake the shit out of the truck.. do you do much highway ?   Thanks !

Posted
5 hours ago, Rednex said:

Hey Stormtrouper, are those the OEM Bushwackers, had mine installed last night, just looking at the spacing ?  Are those the factory wheels ?     I'm concerned the spacers are going to shake the shit out of the truck.. do you do much highway ?   Thanks !

Yes oem, flares and wheels. I have pulled many things with these and no issues. No driving over 65mph for my commute though.

Posted

I have a 19’ trail boss .  Put really nice 2” spacers on at a local tire shop.  Never had any shaking / just rode smooth.  I have 6”

lift / 35’s.  With in two weeks my front drivers side wheels studs two broke and three more the threads stripped off.  I had to replace 5 wheel studs .  Glad I found out before my wheel fell off . 

 

Maybe it was the tire shop messed up when then installed them but odd thing is I saw thread markings inside the spacers where the studs go through .  Not sure if the spacers caused it or the tire shop.

 

just glad It didn’t end worse then it did.  I’ll not take the chance again with spacers . 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Put the suspension max level kit on stock 2019 sierra denali and then added american trucks 1.25” and full lock rubbed left right forward and backward and sounded crazy if i was taking a turn at speed even without full lock. Americantrucks.com said it fit the 2019 sierra denali. They said they test fit everything. Not on my truck. Either stupid or careless or lying and i spent time and money shipping, waiting, installing and uninstalling to find out they dont fit. American trucks customer service said they’d take care of me with a return. Wow, so generous of you. Thank you so much for giving me a return. Lucky me. Get it together americantrucks.com and Alex Balancinas. 

Edited by Sixel
Posted
34 minutes ago, Taz56 said:

1.5" spacers for me.... 

 

IMG_7716.thumb.jpg.b3120e7a74414b990625513b1546652e.jpgIMG_7777.thumb.jpg.3e849de2524aaa0511ebcdd5385aaa80.jpg

Be careful with spacers .  Had some on my 19’ Silverado .  2 weeks later I was replacing 5/6 wheel studs on my drivers front wheel.  
 

 

Posted
Just now, boneill said:

Be careful with spacers .  Had some on my 19’ Silverado .  2 weeks later I was replacing 5/6 wheel studs on my drivers front wheel.  
 

 

From what? People add spacers all the time, so what happened to cause yours to cause issues?

Posted
On 9/24/2019 at 7:04 AM, anthony2558 said:

1.50 wheel spacers, stock 20" wheels with 285/60R20 tires. 36ac46096a55c4af5cb1309d3509afba.jpg

Sent from my SM-N970U1 using Tapatalk
 

Is this leveled?  I have the 20s as well and want basically this same look.  Not many TBs with the 20s out there so this is one I can copy.  Spacers definitely give it a better stance, nice truck!

  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, Sjordan said:

Is this leveled?  I have the 20s as well and want basically this same look.  Not many TBs with the 20s out there so this is one I can copy.  Spacers definitely give it a better stance, nice truck!

Yes leveled 1.5" with motofab lower mount. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Looking to add spacers since the wheels rub slightly on caliper. It looks like 1.5”will need studs grinded and I dint want to do that so going 2”. Will also have fender flares installed. Just don’t want tires to stick out too much. Thoughts??

 

B1B001E7-0700-4325-AEB6-F66B822B1CE5.jpeg

Edited by JSP
Posted
48 minutes ago, JSP said:

Looking to add spacers since the wheels rub slightly on caliper. It looks like 1.5”will need studs grinded and I dint want to do that so going 2”. Will also have fender flares installed. Just don’t want tires to stick out too much. Thoughts??

 

B1B001E7-0700-4325-AEB6-F66B822B1CE5.jpeg

On factory hubs, 1.5" is the minimum for not having to grind studs, unless you go down to .375" and under, which are strictly hub centric, and use the factory studs.

 

1.25" will also work on factory Trial Boss wheels, without stud grinding, because of the pockets behind the wheels.

 

So basically you'll have to grind down the factory studs for widths > .375" or < 1.5".  Unless your using factory TB wheels, which then it's < 1.25".

 

These are all specs/info. for BORA spacers as well that I've been able to find on the forum.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
    • I bought a used 2022 2500hd with 6.6L in February. In March took a 2200 mile trip towing our 6500 lb trailer. Changed the oil day before leaving and when we were arriving at our 1st destination, low oil light came on (roughly 1000 miles) it was 2 qts low. Now it towed like a dream, no issue there, and we did go through the mountains of TN, but still, 2 qts! Luckily I did purchase an extended warranty. Brought it to the dealership in April, oil change and consumption test. Brought it back last week, 1300 miles, no towing, and no oil showing on the dipstick. GM is reccomending a new engine (cheaper than them rebuilding), we'll see if the warranty company comes through. 
    • T3's and Ibuprofen. I do have a cryotherapy unit (ice machine) and a lift chair that will allow me to raise my legs above my heart.  There are topicals that I can use once the wound is fully healed.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...