Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yea those 2 connectors sure seem to be placed in the wrong position for most people myself included. Never once have I ever needed to connect a light trailer connector in the bed of a truck and the camera plugs need to be where the 7 pin plugs in for the goose neck.

Posted
15 hours ago, ShotgunZ71 said:

Here's the front cap routing. I have left it loose underneath after fastening at corner with the slack for attachment to bumper. 

IMG_20191009_183227.jpg

One question, do you need to have the camera mounted a certain distance off of the ground? I have a window on the back of my fifth wheel so I was thinking I would mount it just below the window and then run the cable on the under side of the trailer. Do you think that would work? Also, what is the part number for your system? I tried to order it from my dealer and they told me that the number that I had was for the 1500 trucks and that the HD system isn't out yet...

Posted (edited)

Someone posted that for best results with the invisable trailer feature the camera should be around the same hight as the tailgate camera. I mounted mine on the roof of the toy hauler and have had calibration issues with the feature. I ordered the 1500 version and the instructions did not talk to that. Interested if anyone has recived the HD version and what the instructions say for mounting. 

 

 

Link to HD version

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/trailering/2020-silverado-2500-invisible-trailer-camera-auxiliary-trailer-camera-models-with-cwm-pdm-uvn/84580657-p-92305265.html

 

Edited by sdelam
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, sdelam said:
2 hours ago, MrChips said:

One question, do you need to have the camera mounted a certain distance off of the ground? I have a window on the back of my fifth wheel so I was thinking I would mount it just below the window and then run the cable on the under side of the trailer. Do you think that would work? Also, what is the part number for your system? I tried to order it from my dealer and they told me that the number that I had was for the 1500 trucks and that the HD system isn't out yet...

I have it mounted up where the factory camera prep location was. Maybe 5-6" from the top.They recommend not running the wire underneath due to debris, snags, etc. If you have a safe pathway, it may not be an issue, however. My part number is 84580657. That is the one GM has for the 2020 HD trucks.

2 hours ago, sdelam said:

Someone posted that for best results with the invisable trailer feature the camera should be around the same hight as the tailgate camera. I mounted mine on the roof of the toy hauler and have had calibration issues with the feature. I ordered the 1500 version and the instructions did not talk to that. Interested if anyone has recived the HD version and what the instructions say for mounting. 

 

 

Link to HD version

https://www.shopchevyparts.com/trailering/2020-silverado-2500-invisible-trailer-camera-auxiliary-trailer-camera-models-with-cwm-pdm-uvn/84580657-p-92305265.html

 

Yes, that is the one I have. It only mentions having the camera mounted up high. They say the invisible trailer feature doesn't work well with 5th wheels due to the tailgate camera pretty much looking directly on the storage hatch. When I have mine hooked up, it had a 3-camera view on the screen. The main view was the rear trailer camera, then it had the mirror camera views on each side of that. Not exactly invisible, but it should do all I need it to do when maneuvering the camper. The true invisible camera feature works best with tow-behinds, per GM. The premise is the same using those same camera views as well as the one of the back of the cab to create the silhouette. I may change some settings to try and get the invisible camera option to calibrate and see what it might look like.

 

Edited by ShotgunZ71
Posted

Looking through some specifics in the manual, it states the trailer must be less than 32' long. If any of your information is outside the parameters, the feature will be unavailable. So, I guess one could toy with the dimensions and see if it lets you get a transparent view. Like I mentioned earlier, the 3-camera view that it does give will be fine with me. Heck, even my TT was 36', so that would be out of speck also.

Posted

Transparent trailer will not work on fifth wheel or GN.  The system will not calibrate.  

 

If you have a conventional trailer over the maximum length around 33 ft (10 meters), set your dimension 1 to the maximum.  Transparent will work if you fake the actual length.  Some of the images may not be ideal but, most people won't know the difference.

 

Most people have issues with the dimension from center of ball to front of the trailer.  This is dimension 5 or 6.  I can't remember for sure.  You need to measure this if the trailer had a flat front.  So if trailer is rounded or pointed, don't measure to point closest to truck.  Measure to where the trailer box ends.

 

#iworkforGM 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 10/9/2019 at 7:39 PM, es2020HD said:

Looks great!  When you hook it up to your truck again, can you snap a shot of how you handled it from front cap to bumper?  Trying to visualize how that would work for turns.

Thought that I would add what I did.  Had to mount the camera just above the license plate due to the length of the trailer. I ran the camera cable inside the belly pan to the front, came up the front under the tongue and horizontally all of the way to the tongue box.  I hooked up the trailer to the truck, plugged the light plug into the connector in the bed and the camera plug into the bumper connection.  I then got into the bed of the truck and under the tongue.  Zip tied the camera cable to the wiring harness until there was a minor amount of play over the tailgate for the camera cable.  This keeps the camera harness in the bed of the truck while turning and there are no issues with it wrapping around the outside of the truck bed. 

20191107_164559[1].jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, Rtritter said:

Thought that I would add what I did.  Had to mount the camera just above the license plate due to the length of the trailer. I ran the camera cable inside the belly pan to the front, came up the front under the tongue and horizontally all of the way to the tongue box.  I hooked up the trailer to the truck, plugged the light plug into the connector in the bed and the camera plug into the bumper connection.  I then got into the bed of the truck and under the tongue.  Zip tied the camera cable to the wiring harness until there was a minor amount of play over the tailgate for the camera cable.  This keeps the camera harness in the bed of the truck while turning and there are no issues with it wrapping around the outside of the truck bed. 

20191107_164559[1].jpg

Thanks, Ron!  I'm trying to visualize the setup in the bed.  If you get a chance sometime, please do share a pic of that!  Thanks so much!

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've been looking for an extension from the connector under the bed, I take my tailgate off for my RV and that makes the camera system unusable. Buying the factory extension that plugs into the rear dual sockets won't help as I need to use the pickup after I reach my destination and remove the RV. I bought an aftermarket camera that will plug in to that under bed connection, but it requires me to craw back under the pickup each time. I need a 3 or 4 foot extension Male to Female coax that when I remove the tailgate, I can route it through the opening at the license plate area, and then hook up the aftermarket camera. I could also easily unplug when going to a store or after I launch my boat. Has anyone come across a part like this? It can even be longer.

Morgan

Posted
On 3/25/2020 at 10:24 AM, Morgan Swisher said:

I've been looking for an extension from the connector under the bed, I take my tailgate off for my RV and that makes the camera system unusable. Buying the factory extension that plugs into the rear dual sockets won't help as I need to use the pickup after I reach my destination and remove the RV. I bought an aftermarket camera that will plug in to that under bed connection, but it requires me to craw back under the pickup each time. I need a 3 or 4 foot extension Male to Female coax that when I remove the tailgate, I can route it through the opening at the license plate area, and then hook up the aftermarket camera. I could also easily unplug when going to a store or after I launch my boat. Has anyone come across a part like this? It can even be longer.

Morgan

Following.  Would like one as well if they are not going to to offer a wire harness to the box mount.

Posted

Has anyone manage to move there video connections from the licence plate area to inside the box? Basically swapping the 7 pin with video to the 7 pin with 4 pin connectors.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted

I posted the link where to purchase the material and "how to" instructions on March 15th in this forum 5 posts above this one.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...