Jump to content

Premium Gas on 2.7 Silverado


Recommended Posts

Posted

It is my understanding that any turbo/supercharged engine benefits from using a high octane fuel.  Seems to make a difference on our daughters 1.4l Chevy Cruze when we use  93 over 87. 

Posted

I would pay more attention to the quality of the fuel rather than octane. Top Tier fuels have better detergents to keep your engine clean. If you are going to be towing then sure try out a tank of 91 or 93. For day to day go 87 top tier gas. https://www.toptiergas.com/

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Posted

Use what the owner's manual says.  Using higher octane than recommended is a waste of money.  

From the owner's manual:
Fuel (Gasoline - Except
L87 6.2L Engine)
Regular Unleaded Fuel
Use only Regular 87 octane — (R
+M)/2 — or higher unleaded
gasoline in your vehicle. TOP TIER
Detergent Gasoline is
recommended. Do not use gasoline
with an octane rating lower as it will
result in reduced performance and
lower fuel economy. See
Recommended Fuel (Except 6.2L
V8 Engine) 0 272 or
Recommended Fuel (6.2L
V8 Engine) 0 272.

 

And page 272:

Recommended Fuel
(Except 6.2L V8 Engine)
For diesel engine vehicles, see
“Fuel for Diesel Engines” in the
Duramax diesel supplement.
If the vehicle has a yellow fuel cap
or a yellow sticker on the fuel door,
E85 or FlexFuel can be used. If the
vehicle does not have a yellow fuel
cap or yellow sticker, do not use
gasoline with ethanol levels greater
than 15% by volume. See E85 or
FlexFuel 0 273.
Use regular unleaded gasoline
meeting ASTM specification D4814
with a posted octane rating of 87 or
higher. Do not use gasoline with a
posted octane rating of less than 87,
as this may cause engine knock and
will lower fuel economy.

Posted
10 hours ago, Aesthetix said:

using premium unleaded gas 91 on my 2.7 Silverado. should i use it or 87 with 91 im getting 16mpg

Use at least the minimum octane that your Owner's Manual or decal inside the fuel door calls for.  

 

If that is 87 octane, you may notice a little increase in your fuel mileage if you try mid-grade or premium.  

 

My truck (5.3L) gets 1-2 mpg better fuel mileage on a tank of mid-grade or premium than it does on regular.  Maybe because it runs a little more peppy and then I don't put my foot down so hard.

 

Seems like 16 mpg is a little low for your engine, even if that is all city miles.  Is that indicated by the Driver Info Center screen?  Some of the DIC's seem to be spot on.  Mine is always ~8% overoptimistic when I hand calculate the mpg.   

Posted

I use 87 unless I am towing in temps over 90*, at which point I will give it 91.

 

Something seems wrong, or you are really being heavy footed with it. I have a 4x4 Double Cab with 22" wheels and get ~22 average without effort (cruise set to 75-80 on freeway) consistently across tanks - and can get 26-27 with pulse gliding at 60-65 MPH. Your MPG is lower than what I get dragging around ~4,100lb of boat.

Posted

Thata really low for an engine that's built for economy.  In getting 16-18 in town with my 6.2 max trailering 4wd

Posted

The only thing that higher octane gas does is resist engine knock.  It has no more energy than regular gas.  It will not make your engine peppier.  It will not increase your fuel economy.  This has been proven time and time again, and yet these urban myths persist.  If your engine is designed for 87 octane gas, using premium will do nothing other than put a bigger dent in your wallet.  Premium gas is for engines that have a higher compression ratio.  If you use top tier gas, your engine should do fine for the lifetime of the vehicle.  If you use crap gas, you'll have more carbon buildup and you may experience engine knocking.  Should that happen, try mid-grade gas.  Bottom line...premium gas will do absolutely nothing for your engine if it was designed to run on regular gas.

Posted

With the K2, Black Bear recommended 89 or higher for the 5.3 even on the stock tune as he was seeing timing being pulled on 87. As for the new turbo,  no idea.

Posted

Costco 87 all the way in my L3B.  Get slightly better mileage on brand name 87 but doesnt justify the price difference.

Never noticed any knocking.

Posted

Use only Regular 87 octane — (R+M)/2 — or higher unleaded gasoline.....doesn't mean use only 87. Same advice given on my '16 Malibu 2.0T but at least they were more candid in that owner's manual, explaining that the turbos are optimized for premium but will run just fine on 87 regular, although not at optimum performance levels.

Essentially the engine will run at maximum performance using premium but will run just fine although at reduced power on regular. All modern engines  are equipped with knock sensors and the higher effective compression ratios in turbos with 87 octane higher in low end molecules will cause a knock if the spark timing is advanced too far. Run these engines on regular and when the sensor sees a knock it retards the timing to compensate resulting in less power. So the engine will run just fine with no damage on a retarded spark, just less power and performance.

 

You can play with it yourself, but the 2.0T was definitely peppier and the wallet lighter on a diet of 93.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...