Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I’ve been seeing folks on other forums talking about UCA failure/breakage as a result of leveling kits- specifically the MotoFab 2.5” upper strut puck system. Has anyone got any experience on this?  I’m currently running the Zone 2” upper pucks up front and wondering if I need to go back to stock for the time being. 

Posted

I have been seeing the same thing and my zone kit just came in the mail. I am looking at holding off for now and buying some upper control arms from Cognito and swapping everything out at the same time.

Posted

Everything I’ve seen though has been with a 2.5”. Have you seen anything from a 2” puck system?  

  • 5 months later...
Posted

So if i'm understanding this... 2in your good.... any more your playing with fate?

Posted

Just talked to service department about this and he told me no issues doing and they will do my truck as soon as it comes in. Not sure of brand they are using and I know I could get it done cheaper somewhere else but I figured if they installed and approved then if something happens its on them

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'm in the process of changing struts and adding zone upper control arms. Mines a trail boss and I added 1.5" leveling block to offset the winch I have. (My balljoints are shot and a strut is blown after about 15k miles). Seems like the problem is is the ball joint binding up when the suspension unloads. Id just get the control arms and be done with it.

Posted

I have a 2.5" motofab on mine.  What UCA will work with 2.5" ?  I've seen for 3" and above but not sure if it can go on 2.5" even though its only half an inch.

Posted
On 1/4/2021 at 12:35 PM, Norcent said:

So if i'm understanding this... 2in your good.... any more your playing with fate?

Seems to be the consensus.

 

The factory control arms are engineered for both the 0" of lift on a regular 1500 and the 2" of lift on the Trail Boss. It's the same UCA on both trucks. Lifting a non-Trail Boss truck  2" is putting the UCA and ball joints at essentially the same operating angles/conditions as a stock Trail Boss. This is why the only GM designed, authorized and warrantied 2" lift for non-TB/AT4 trucks does not include, or require, new UCAs. The GM 2" lift kit is basically comprised of the different/additional parts from the Trail Boss/AT4.

 

My thoughts, I wouldn't change the UCAs on a non-Trail Boss with a lift up to 2" but I would change the UCAs with any additional lift on a Trail Boss or an AT4 (already at, or near, UCA limit).

 

JMHO

No expertise implied or expressed

Posted
7 hours ago, RWTJR said:

My thoughts, I wouldn't change the UCAs on a non-Trail Boss with a lift up to 2" but I would change the UCAs with any additional lift on a Trail Boss or an AT4 (already at, or near, UCA limit).

Well said.  

Posted

There are so many on Facebook with problems with those arms from everything besides stock. Most of it tho is with the bigger tire like 35s.  If you never seen how bad a blown upper ball joint or one ripped off the arm looks you might want to. If it was me it would be a piece of mind to just do ucas. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Flatblack83 said:

There are so many on Facebook with problems with those arms from everything besides stock. Most of it tho is with the bigger tire like 35s.  If you never seen how bad a blown upper ball joint or one ripped off the arm looks you might want to. If it was me it would be a piece of mind to just do ucas. 

got a link to pics...thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...