Jump to content

Towing sag

Mark Frazier
 Share

Recommended Posts

Mark Frazier Enthusiast

Mark Frazier

Posted
Posted

I have a 2018 Sierra elevation four-wheel-drive towing package I pull a 25 foot camper Any ideas how to get the SAG out of the truck and trailer

btj_z71 Enthusiast

btj_z71

Posted
Posted
25 minutes ago, Mark Frazier said:

I have a 2018 Sierra elevation four-wheel-drive towing package I pull a 25 foot camper Any ideas how to get the SAG out of the truck and trailer

Roadmaster Active Suspension.  These make your daily ride better and have impressive towing and hauling improvements.  The reviews speak for themselves, but these really are the best you can get.

 

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Vehicle_Suspension-pm-RAS.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjw4MP5BRBtEiwASfwAL6ClR287IecORqnkUBJFBlT-EDWvyXoyVduInR79Ifs74IkI7mTXoBoCC1IQAvD_BwE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Fix29 Enthusiast

Fix29

Posted
Posted

I would start with a good and properly set up weight distribution hitch. I have had my toy hauler loaded to 9k pounds and my truck sits level with just the weight distribution hitch. I think air bags would help take some of the bounce out of the tongue on larger bumps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

I agree^^^.   Find a reputable RV dealer service tech who will show you how to properly use your weight distribution hitch and/or how to best distribute the cargo in your trailer.  

  • Like 1
dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted

Ditto on the hitch. You don't need airbags or add a leafs or any of that nonsense. You need a weight distributing hitch.

Say you have a 1000 lb tongue weight and the truck sags. With a Weight distributing hitch you can adjust it to level it out and throw more weight on your steer tires. I tow the same size trailer with my stock 18 5.3 Silverado with a weight distributing hitch.

You need a weight distributing hitch.34b8a3c2e6fbfb26e603b52b3fd52a88.jpg

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

bobbylx Enthusiast

bobbylx

Posted
Posted

Just another vote for weight distribution hitch. I pull a 28ft travel trailer and with the WDH the back of my truck doesn’t sag at all. I did add air bags to get rid of the bounce on rough highways.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

slide187 Enthusiast

slide187

Posted
Posted

I agree with the distribution hitch. But also look into these: easy install and tons of tow/haul weight handing and control benefits:

https://activesuspension.com

I’ve had them on a couple trucks now and won’t go without.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
UnlimitedMatt Enthusiast

UnlimitedMatt

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, bobbylx said:

Just another vote for weight distribution hitch. I pull a 28ft travel trailer and with the WDH the back of my truck doesn’t sag at all. I did add air bags to get rid of the bounce on rough highways.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm in the same situation, I added airbags too.  I also added LT tires which helps reduce sway when being passed buy large vehicles.  

  • Like 2
rjpoog1989 Enthusiast

rjpoog1989

Posted
Posted

You want a good, properly adjusted weight distribution hitch.  I prefer the ones with built in sway control such as fastway or equalizer.  I have an e2 and it’s really awesome.

 

If you’ve still got issues after that, than Roadmaster Active Suspension is the next step.  I’d also upgrade to LT tires, but try airing the ones you have up to max before spending money on new.

Pearl2017 Enthusiast

Pearl2017

Posted
Posted (edited)

I somewhat disagree with the Weight dist hitch crowd. That device is NOT supposed to help SUPPORT the LOAD! its job is to virtually shift the load from the rear bumper to just forward of the rear axle (Like a fifth wheel). If you add too much WDH it is possible the load point can be too far forward. In this condition if you have a hard braking event the front end will dive and the rear wheels will lift/unload and jackknife the rig.

 

Carrying a load is the singular job of springs and air bags. either get beefier springs if you tow a lot or a good set of airbags to keep good ride when not towing. I use airbags and pump them till the truck is level and then set the WDH taught enough that the rear stays planted well not lifting and front doesn't dive under braking. Adding high pressure tires and friction sway bars are also great ideas.

 

I pull a 32' toy hauler right at the max of the max tow pkg in a 1500 6.2 truck with some scary moments till I sorted this out. now it is solid and predictable. Do Not Over tighten the WDH it is dangerous!

Edited by Pearl2017
  • Like 1
dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted
I somewhat disagree with the Weight dist hitch crowd. That device is NOT supposed to help SUPPORT the LOAD! its job is to virtually shift the load from the rear bumper to just forward of the rear axle (Like a fifth wheel). If you add too much WDH it is possible the load point can be too far forward. In this condition if you have a hard braking event the front end will dive and the rear wheels will lift/unload and jackknife the rig.
 
Carrying a load is the singular job of springs and air bags. either get beefier springs if you tow a lot or a good set of airbags to keep good ride when not towing. I use airbags and pump them till the truck is level and then set the WDH taught enough that the rear stays planted well not lifting and front doesn't dive under braking. Adding high pressure tires and friction sway bars are also great ideas.
 
I pull a 32' toy hauler right at the max of the max tow pkg in a 1500 6.2 truck with some scary moments till I sorted this out. now it is solid and predictable. Do Not Over tighten the WDH it is dangerous!
If you don't have the hitch set right it is not effective. There is definitely a fine line to get these set right and a lot of guys have trouble because they don't know how to set it.
The main purpose is to get some of the tongue weight off your bumper and transfer it to the steer tires.
If you don't use a WDH your truck sags and your light on your steer tires . Have fun with that in the wind.
I've towed my 25' Travel trailer without the WDH and there is a night and day difference.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
sldhead700 Enthusiast

sldhead700

Posted
Posted
I somewhat disagree with the Weight dist hitch crowd. That device is NOT supposed to help SUPPORT the LOAD! its job is to virtually shift the load from the rear bumper to just forward of the rear axle (Like a fifth wheel). If you add too much WDH it is possible the load point can be too far forward. In this condition if you have a hard braking event the front end will dive and the rear wheels will lift/unload and jackknife the rig.

 

Carrying a load is the singular job of springs and air bags. either get beefier springs if you tow a lot or a good set of airbags to keep good ride when not towing. I use airbags and pump them till the truck is level and then set the WDH taught enough that the rear stays planted well not lifting and front doesn't dive under braking. Adding high pressure tires and friction sway bars are also great ideas.

 

I pull a 32' toy hauler right at the max of the max tow pkg in a 1500 6.2 truck with some scary moments till I sorted this out. now it is solid and predictable. Do Not Over tighten the WDH it is dangerous!

Your right in the part that if not done correctly, you can "lift" the back wheels to there point of minimal contact.

But that means you are not set up correctly with your weight distribution hitch! It should be transferring weight to your front axle, while removing weight from the rear. Both your front and rear should "squat the same amount.

 

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Roscopcoletrain Senior Enthusiast

Roscopcoletrain

Posted
Posted
On 8/13/2020 at 12:59 AM, Pearl2017 said:

I somewhat disagree with the Weight dist hitch crowd. That device is NOT supposed to help SUPPORT the LOAD! its job is to virtually shift the load from the rear bumper to just forward of the rear axle (Like a fifth wheel). If you add too much WDH it is possible the load point can be too far forward. In this condition if you have a hard braking event the front end will dive and the rear wheels will lift/unload and jackknife the rig.

 

Carrying a load is the singular job of springs and air bags. either get beefier springs if you tow a lot or a good set of airbags to keep good ride when not towing. I use airbags and pump them till the truck is level and then set the WDH taught enough that the rear stays planted well not lifting and front doesn't dive under braking. Adding high pressure tires and friction sway bars are also great ideas.

 

I pull a 32' toy hauler right at the max of the max tow pkg in a 1500 6.2 truck with some scary moments till I sorted this out. now it is solid and predictable. Do Not Over tighten the WDH it is dangerous!

 

Its all in the name. Weight Distribution hitch. Distribute that tongue weight evenly. OP never said if he has one. If he doesn't, he should get a good one, and have it set up properly. 

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted (edited)

cheapest route is to shif some weight to the rear of trailer, and add 2-3" higher hitch.. i never used weight distribution hitch. too much hassle and $$$.  if you really want a quick lift one can try a set of cheap air shocks too. but the key is Weight "BALANCE" 

Edited by flyingfool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...