Jump to content

Mobil1 new oil filter?

spenpet
 Share

Recommended Posts

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

Wow, it’s lots cheaper than the Amsoil too. Just doesn’t have the supporting wire backing on either. I’m willing to give it a shot!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't knock the DELCO BRO! 

 

792 gph

13.2 Gpm

 

Wire backing not needed and only adds to iron count/contamination....heck even the gaskets will show up with silicone contamination.  You want the cleanest highest flow rate of any filter..Better put a DELCO ON THERE SON!  Brand new filters are dirty right out of the box.

  • Replies 153
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

diyer2
diyer2
swathdiver
swathdiver

Swore those off when I realized they were dropping my oil pressure about 3 psi compared with the K&N and it only filters down to 30 microns while the K&N is down to 10-12 @ 99% and flows 16 ga

Grumpy Bear
Grumpy Bear

Gal stopped in front of the house the other day in a Prius delivering from PRIME. Rex and I were getting back from the evening walk. I asked her, "Your using your personal car for deliveries"? She rep

Posted Images

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Why do you buy qts when your truck takes 2 gallons?  Just order the gallons and stop messing around with individual qts.  LOL

Don’t have anywhere to store them, I’d have to rearrange my cabinets, to much work. Besides, they’re easier to tote around when space is a concern during road trips but I’ve definitely been thinking about it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
27 minutes ago, mookdoc6 said:

Don't knock the DELCO BRO! 

 

792 gph

13.2 Gpm

 

Wire backing not needed and only adds to iron count/contamination....heck even the gaskets will show up with silicone contamination.  You want the cleanest highest flow rate of any filter..Better put a DELCO ON THERE SON!  Brand new filters are dirty right out of the box.

You make me :crackup:

  • Like 1
mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

You make me :crackup:

Grumps,

 

I know you don't care or would listen to me anyway but my later stage goal in life is to post/update on this forum my K2 with more miles and still operating whether it takes 10yrs or 4 trans in my sled THAN PEPPER!  I am gonna see it through!

 

Anyway, I decided to change out my Vacuum pump recently.  I am not even sure your 4.3 has one but I assume it does?  I couldn't sleep thinking of having anybody else work on my baby other than me so I opted to do it myself.  Did the OEM pump need to come off since I bought it?  No, it worked fine as far as I was concerned other than being loud I thought.  So after examination it's clear to me as to the main problem with this design.  The casted body slightly different has little to no bearing.  The internals?  Not sure... discarded old unit and obviously didn't open up new unit?  The culprit is the Micro-screen and it's so fine inevitably even with 2k OCI with Redline/Amsoil or BOB'S SLICK 0W-20 the screen will restrict from engine combustion byproducts, junk etc. and ultimately fail!  I am just giving you a heads up for 130.00 I think I paid....Yes, it's far quieter than original and the new pumps safety screen is literally 100x more open and will not restrict or clog unless you go 100k without changing oil.

 

So go outside tomorrow scratch the OL'  Nutsack and ponder the wisdom I tried to instill?  Choice is yours I don't judge!  MOOK

Edited by mookdoc6
KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
Grumps,
 
I know you don't care or would listen to me anyway but my later stage goal in life is to post/update on this forum my K2 with more miles and still operating whether it takes 10yrs or 4 trans in my sled THAN PEPPER!  I am gonna see it through!
 
Anyway, I decided to change out my Vacuum pump recently.  I am not even sure your 4.3 has one but I assume it does?  I couldn't sleep thinking of having anybody else work on my baby other than me so I opted to do it myself.  Did the OEM pump need to come off since I bought it?  No, it worked fine as far as I was concerned other than being loud I thought.  So after examination it's clear to me as to the main problem with this design.  The casted body slightly different has little to no bearing.  The internals?  Not sure... discarded old unit and obviously didn't open up new unit?  The culprit is the Micro-screen and it's so fine inevitably even with 2k OCI with Redline/Amsoil or BOB'S SLICK 0W-20 the screen will restrict from engine combustion byproducts, junk etc. and ultimately fail!  I am just giving you a heads up for 130.00 I think I paid....Yes, it's far quieter than original and the new pumps safety screen is literally 100x more open and will not restrict or clog unless you go 100k without changing oil.
 
So go outside tomorrow scratch the OL'  Nutsack and ponder the wisdom I tried to instill?  Choice is yours I don't judge!  MOOK

Waste of time dude. Most of the same people worried about oil and filter changes and micro filtration. Are slobbering all over themselves over GMs Frankenstein engine’s that only get a couple extra miles per gallon at best. That’s only if you drive slow enough for it to work. My family business used Amsoil and its filters since the 80s. Most our testing was done on Diesel engines that ran at redline for 8-10 hrs a day. That was on pipelines in the most dusty conditions imagined. We double OCIs hours from conventional oil. Never an engine failure. That’s hundreds of engines. Other oils such as redline synthetic was added later. I still go extended with most of my gas engines. There’s been many of those tested too. One more interesting fact I learned dabbling in the salvage yard business in the 90s. Most of the non wrecked cars people brought to us still ran. The biggest killer of automobiles in my area was failing smog. It was easier to buy another used car at a pay as you go lot. Than fixing car that wouldn’t pass inspection. With the possible exception of some of the GM Frankenstein engines. Engine failures aren’t the demise of most vehicles. Way down the list is oil and filters. But it’s fun reading about how people sweat the micro filtration. For the most of the people who read this thread. That may not know better. Don’t buy the cheapest oil and filters. Follow the manufacturers recommended OCIs. With the possible exception of the Frankenstein GM engines or Rams. I’d go with the manufacturers extreme service. There’s a lot going on in those engines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 3
spenpet Enthusiast

spenpet

Posted
  • Author
Posted
15 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

It’s the same price as the Amsoil!

444711e34264028f64de14736e2abf38.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i was very clear, but you might have missed it...NOT BOSS, Purolator ONE...the Boss actually doesnt filter as well as the ONE...even though it is their 'premium' filter...

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, mookdoc6 said:

Grumps,

 

I know you don't care or would listen to me anyway but my later stage goal in life is to post/update on this forum my K2 with more miles and still operating whether it takes 10yrs or 4 trans in my sled THAN PEPPER!  I am gonna see it through!

 

Anyway, I decided to change out my Vacuum pump recently. 

 

So go outside tomorrow scratch the OL'  Nutsack and ponder the wisdom I tried to instill?  Choice is yours I don't judge!  MOOK

Dear Sir MOOK:

 

I enjoy your humor and I do actually listen intently to you. You set such lofty goals my friend and honor me as your benchmark. However I'm a fairly low bar as a standard overall. No one listens to me either. So....I guess we are two peas in a pod and we will trudge toward that million mile mark together. ? 

 

Yep, Pepper has a vacuum pump and we are currently at 130K on the old OEM and silent as a church fart. My reason for not as yet updating to the new pump is that this critter is still covered under the extended warranty for yet another 20K. If she makes it that far I will indeed be doing the upgrade. An no, I did not know the screen mesh was different between them. Interesting tidbit of trivia that will come in useful me thinks. Thanks!

 

Speaking of screens. Did you change the one to the VLOM under the pressure switch? Pepper had hers replace at 90,426 miles. That screen is fine as panty hose. Guess what? Looked like new. Imagine that! So why replace it? Well it got destroyed removing it. That thing is really in there for keeps. Used a pick to get it out.  

 

On a personal note. Been hot enough for ya there lately in the land of Sun and Sand?  :lol:

 

With regards to my brother from another mother

Grumpy Old Bear

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
spenpet Enthusiast

spenpet

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

Well, my next replacement OCI oil and filters arrived. Only wish I knew WTH the flow rate is in all these filters, both say 99% at 20 microns but neither give flow rate when they’re at least at 50%. I guess we’re to assume that their marketing departments don’t like to release this information, not required which leads me to believe something is being kept from us all.

Spenpet, can you please take a pick of your pressure gauge at idle and and at normal driving so you can see the difference between before using Purolator and after? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, i will...i just changed my oil...so it will be awhile. but i will do that when time gets closer...

  • Like 1
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
i was very clear, but you might have missed it...NOT BOSS, Purolator ONE...the Boss actually doesnt filter as well as the ONE...even though it is their 'premium' filter...

That’s interesting cause online says the Boss is better than the one. No worries, to each their own, looks like I’ll just stick with what’s worked great for me for these years and maybe one day, when I’ve run out of my Amsoil filters, I may just test the Purolator. Thanks for your input, looking forward to hearing more about your pressure difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
spenpet Enthusiast

spenpet

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:


That’s interesting cause online says the Boss is better than the one. No worries, to each their own, looks like I’ll just stick with what’s worked great for me for these years and maybe one day, when I’ve run out of my Amsoil filters, I may just test the Purolator. Thanks for your input, looking forward to hearing more about your pressure difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In the video you posted, it articulated that the Boss is more heavy duty and fully synthetic materials, but it is i think 98% or less...i cant recall...but the ONE is 99%...again...all about filtration, not overall performance...

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
In the video you posted, it articulated that the Boss is more heavy duty and fully synthetic materials, but it is i think 98% or less...i cant recall...but the ONE is 99%...again...all about filtration, not overall performance...


It was VERY CLEAR, said the Boss was more than 99% in filtration lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Dear Sir MOOK:

 

I enjoy your humor and I do actually listen intently to you. You set such lofty goals my friend and honor me as your benchmark. However I'm a fairly low bar as a standard overall. No one listens to me either. So....I guess we are two peas in a pod and we will trudge toward that million mile mark together. ? 

 

Yep, Pepper has a vacuum pump and we are currently at 130K on the old OEM and silent as a church fart. My reason for not as yet updating to the new pump is that this critter is still covered under the extended warranty for yet another 20K. If she makes it that far I will indeed be doing the upgrade. An no, I did not know the screen mesh was different between them. Interesting tidbit of trivia that will come in useful me thinks. Thanks!

 

Speaking of screens. Did you change the one to the VLOM under the pressure switch? Pepper had hers replace at 90,426 miles. That screen is fine as panty hose. Guess what? Looked like new. Imagine that! So why replace it? Well it got destroyed removing it. That thing is really in there for keeps. Used a pick to get it out.  

 

On a personal note. Been hot enough for ya there lately in the land of Sun and Sand?  :lol:

 

With regards to my brother from another mother

Grumpy Old Bear

 

 

Don't worry I learned as a yout to set my goals low to avoid disappointment!  I look under my throttle body frequently and look there it is.....Won't be long and I will be taking a peek at the screen!  I mean 124k and you know it's showing her age...rough idle, sputtering and where is the oil going thing?  Must be a Frankenchrist engine I have.  Good luck with yours!  MOOK

  • Like 1
spenpet Enthusiast

spenpet

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, TXGREEK said:

 


It was VERY CLEAR, said the Boss was more than 99% in filtration lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

ha! yeah, it does...i was confusing my sources...but i think the Boss is 99% at a higher micros...so let me go back to my research...the ONE is 99% at 20 micros...i think the boss is 99% at like 40 micros...(hold please)

spenpet Enthusiast

spenpet

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 minutes ago, spenpet said:

ha! yeah, it does...i was confusing my sources...but i think the Boss is 99% at a higher micros...so let me go back to my research...the ONE is 99% at 20 micros...i think the boss is 99% at like 40 micros...(hold please)

yes...Boss is at 25 micros...while the ONE is at 20 micros...again...i have no idea what that means in real world scenarios, but i do know that 99% at 20 micros is better than 99% at 25 micros...sorry...had a lot of research i was sifting through in my mind (the video you pulled was one of the resources i came across)...

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
ha! yeah, it does...i was confusing my sources...but i think the Boss is 99% at a higher micros...so let me go back to my research...the ONE is 99% at 20 micros...i think the boss is 99% at like 40 micros...(hold please)

https://carcarenewsservice.org/article/premium-oil-filters-keep-oil-clean-flowing-smoothly-between-oil-changes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • bluev8
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By bluev8 · Posted

      That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • scotthvac.net
      2022-24 halogen - led grille swap

      By scotthvac.net · Posted

      2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • davester
      Replacement Radiator

      By davester · Posted

      And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
    • davester
      Turning radius

      By davester · Posted

      Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?
    • Snowcamo
      Replacement Radiator

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Rockauto bud. I pass local stores for parts.   Findya something online. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...