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Posted

It’s it fair that I buy a used 2015 with 80k on it and at 89k I have to replace the motor due to afm system failure.I have always loved my chevys 

I have had a least 9 trucks and this One disappointed me big time and cost me a lot of money. The truck was clean and well cared for .This

issue has nothing to do with neglect in any Way. I really trust my 99 Tahoe with 200k on it more than I do my 2015 .

Trying to stay loyal but this one hurts 

  • Like 2
Posted
41 minutes ago, Pell4 said:

It’s it fair that I buy a used 2015 with 80k on it and at 89k I have to replace the motor due to afm system failure.I have always loved my chevys 

I have had a least 9 trucks and this One disappointed me big time and cost me a lot of money. The truck was clean and well cared for .This

issue has nothing to do with neglect in any Way. I really trust my 99 Tahoe with 200k on it more than I do my 2015 .

Trying to stay loyal but this one hurts 

Sorry for your issue. Here's a good video on what the cause is with the AFM failure. Best to buy a Ranger AFM disabler & that may eliminate the failure. I hope.

https://youtu.be/6GnGNTYY7iU

  • Like 1
Posted

Before the new one goes in just change the cam and lifters to delete the AFM. Now you're back to bulletproof 5.3

Posted
It’s it fair that I buy a used 2015 with 80k on it and at 89k I have to replace the motor due to afm system failure.I have always loved my chevys 

I have had a least 9 trucks and this One disappointed me big time and cost me a lot of money. The truck was clean and well cared for .This

issue has nothing to do with neglect in any Way. I really trust my 99 Tahoe with 200k on it more than I do my 2015 .

Trying to stay loyal but this one hurts 

I have a 15 CC and just had to have the lifters replaced because of the shitty AFM. I was running a tune with the AFM disabled and somehow still had it go out. That’s the only thing I hate about the truck. Other than I think it’s one of the best trucks I’ve owned. I considered just getting a crate motor and doing away with it. There is a tech bulletin about this but they won’t recall knowing there is an issue. I think there was a class action suit going around for this specific thing in the 2014-2015 models.

 

Edited to add: mine just rolled over 60k last week.

 

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Posted
I have a 15 CC and just had to have the lifters replaced because of the shitty AFM. I was running a tune with the AFM disabled and somehow still had it go out. That’s the only thing I hate about the truck. Other than I think it’s one of the best trucks I’ve owned. I considered just getting a crate motor and doing away with it. There is a tech bulletin about this but they won’t recall knowing there is an issue. I think there was a class action suit going around for this specific thing in the 2014-2015 models.
 
Edited to add: mine just rolled over 60k last week.
 
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Were you under warranty? If so did they cover even though you had a tune? I have a tune with it disabled as well still under warranty.


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Posted

Were you under warranty? If so did they cover even though you had a tune? I have a tune with it disabled as well still under warranty.


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The stealership tried but kicked the numbers over to GM and they said it wasn’t covered because the numbers weren’t within specs. Probably due to the tune. I was pissed. But $300 and something for the parts wasn’t too bad I guess. It was the other $2600 for labor to troubleshoot the issue is where they got me. I was not in the mood to fight it since I needed my truck back.


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Posted

The stealership tried but kicked the numbers over to GM and they said it wasn’t covered because the numbers weren’t within specs. Probably due to the tune. I was pissed. But $300 and something for the parts wasn’t too bad I guess. It was the other $2600 for labor to troubleshoot the issue is where they got me. I was not in the mood to fight it since I needed my truck back.


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Holy crap 2600 for labor. But like you said if you need the vehicle it is what it is. I still like running my tune. The truck is soo much more fun to drive.


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  • Like 1
Posted

Holy crap 2600 for labor. But like you said if you need the vehicle it is what it is. I still like running my tune. The truck is soo much more fun to drive.


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Yes it is. They had it for almost a week trying to figure out why it was missing and running like crap. So far I adjusted for my tire size and disabled the AFM again. I’m holding off on putting the tune back on right now. Still a little gunshy at the moment.


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Posted
18 hours ago, rav3 said:

Sorry for your issue. Here's a good video on what the cause is with the AFM failure. Best to buy a Ranger AFM disabler & that may eliminate the failure. I hope.

https://youtu.be/6GnGNTYY7iU

OR

 

https://www.melling.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Melling-tech-bulletin-on-GM-LS-Deactivation-Lifter-Issues-3.1.18-1.pdf

 

Melling might know something about this as they are the OEM supplier...ya think?

 

This has been posted to death. 

This document is equally true of the Gen 5 motors.

 

If you read this entire document you will see failure is an oil choice or oil maintenance issue most of the time.

A small percentage of the time it's a position sensor, VLOM solenoid or ECU failure (event timing). 

 

Yes, you can defeat the system several ways. 

So here's a thought.

 

If wear or varnish is the issue and you delete the system without correcting the 'root cause', oil choice or maintenance, what's going to fail next that is wearing or plugging up? 

:dunno:

 

Want to see how good your choices are? Pull the VLOM feed filter for a lookie-see.

? 

  • Like 1
Posted

OR

 
https://www.melling.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Melling-tech-bulletin-on-GM-LS-Deactivation-Lifter-Issues-3.1.18-1.pdf
 

Melling might know something about this as they are the OEM supplier...ya think?

 

This has been posted to death. 

This document is equally true of the Gen 5 motors.

 

If you read this entire document you will see failure is an oil choice or oil maintenance issue most of the time.

A small percentage of the time it's a position sensor, VLOM solenoid or ECU failure (event timing). 

 

Yes, you can defeat the system several ways. 

So here's a thought.

 

If wear or varnish is the issue and you delete the system without correcting the 'root cause', oil choice or maintenance, what's going to fail next that is wearing or plugging up? 

:dunno:

 

Want to see how good your choices are? Pull the VLOM feed filter for a lookie-see.

[emoji6] 


Would an engine flush say like an amsoil product every few oil changes be a good thing to do to prevent any buildup?


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Posted
30 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

OR

 

https://www.melling.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Melling-tech-bulletin-on-GM-LS-Deactivation-Lifter-Issues-3.1.18-1.pdf

 

Melling might know something about this as they are the OEM supplier...ya think?

 

This has been posted to death. 

This document is equally true of the Gen 5 motors.

 

If you read this entire document you will see failure is an oil choice or oil maintenance issue most of the time.

A small percentage of the time it's a position sensor, VLOM solenoid or ECU failure (event timing). 

 

Yes, you can defeat the system several ways. 

So here's a thought.

 

If wear or varnish is the issue and you delete the system without correcting the 'root cause', oil choice or maintenance, what's going to fail next that is wearing or plugging up? 

:dunno:

 

Want to see how good your choices are? Pull the VLOM feed filter for a lookie-see.

? 

Dang!  I am next I bet I will be 285,561 of the AFM engines that have gone to crap!  Wow, Frankenchrist engines I tell ya!

Posted

If you read this entire document you will see failure is an oil choice or oil maintenance issue most of the time.

BINGO!!

I still stick by more frequent oil and filter changes, especially if you're using off the shelf oil.  

Posted
If you read this entire document you will see failure is an oil choice or oil maintenance issue most of the time.
BINGO!!
I still stick by more frequent oil and filter changes, especially if you're using off the shelf oil.  

Aren’t the majority of oils off the shelf [emoji6]


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Posted
2 hours ago, Bob2C said:


Would an engine flush say like an amsoil product every few oil changes be a good thing to do to prevent any buildup?
 

 

1 hour ago, diyer2 said:

If you read this entire document you will see failure is an oil choice or oil maintenance issue most of the time.

 

BINGO!!

 

I still stick by more frequent oil and filter changes, especially if you're using off the shelf oil.  

What he said. ? 

 

Best defense is not getting to the point of needing a flush.

I know, not useful. Sorry.

Reset hit.... 

 

Something I learned the hard way recently with this 2.4L in the wife's ride is coming back from these situations is difficult and a long process. I used good oil....I thought....QSUD...and good filters....WIX GOLD, and I changed from the get go on 5K OCI's. But if you would have seen the inside of the cam tower when we had to unplug this things PCV system you would have sworn I had used some 1950's Group I and a horse hair filter (Old Delco style). What a mess. Two, no...three flushes later and two top end solvent cleanings and now on the second change of Royal Purple and I can just now see the base metal again on the cam core. I have no idea how good an oil it is but it is a great cleaner. :) 

 

I expect that if I had followed dyier2's 3,000 mile OCI or fathers 2500 mile OCI I would not have had to endure this. Dad got motors to the million mark on the 'old oils' and cat and dog filters with 2500 as an OCI. Heck 2K sometimes. 

 

Then again if I had followed my own best experience I would have used Red Line or AMSOIL and a Purolator One from day one and this would have never happened. Not even at 5K OCI's. But I doubt even the best of the best would have prevented this at 7.5K OCI's. I've run Honda's to 300 K on Red Line and taken them down to find them looking like they were freshly rebuilt or never run. Thing is...once the motor is dirty neither of these oils IMHO will get them clean again. Royal Purple may. It's working in my case anyway. 

 

I hesitate to say flush not knowing the present condition of the motor. That screen under the oil pressure switch would be a great indicator as would lifting a rocker box for a look see before proceeding. 

 

I guess I'm not really answering you question but your boots on the ground and I'm not and even if I were; I've been know to take a risk with my equipment I would have never taken with a customers car. That make sense? 

 

You need a solid reference point. Something you can see. You have to know how bad it is and a reference for progress. 

 

Tell ya what. Hit up Ryan, aka Colossus. I would thing a guy who is a BG products user in his own shop would know how to proceed safely. Or Nick even, Black02Silverado. He's our AMSOIL guy and fields these questions all the time. I bounce my really crazy ideas of him all the time. 

Posted

Yup that’s the ticket it’s the oil. I wonder why they ditched that design and went to another? Didn’t they stay with the same oil? I know change the oil every 1K miles. Me I ditched the truck before the warranty went out.


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