Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

It just happened tonight, I am going to call them tomorrow.

I travel a ton for work, usually 1000-1500 miles a week. I can't afford to have doubts about my truck not working.

I will post back what they day.

Tom

Posted
I had a few days of no problems then...
I was driving from Minneapolis to Kansas City today. My truck started throwing up tons of error codes and wouldn't restart after turning it off. It wouldn't even crank. 
I unplugged the Pulsar and took it out of the system, everything fired up.
I am going to ship it back, not sure it is fully developed yet.
Tom


That’s what mine did. Powerteq has my device and will be testing it out along with my first device that also failed.

At the very least you should call them and tell them about your issues so they don’t think I’m the only one.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted

Just another reason why I’ll wait and have all the bugs worked out of this thing. Too many issues right now.  Hopefully by spring they will have kinks worked out. 

 

Who knows, maybe the tuning industry will drop their prices by then??‍♂️??

Posted
23 minutes ago, Jav_eee said:

 


That’s what mine did. Powerteq has my device and will be testing it out along with my first device that also failed.

At the very least you should call them and tell them about your issues so they don’t think I’m the only one.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

You had 2 fail on you?

Posted
You had 2 fail on you?


First one was a bad unit all the way around.

Second one worked like it should for about 7 days then I had the same issues you did out of nowhere.

Call them!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted

The under hood connector these things plug into is prone to failure. I’ve seen them replaced on about 5 trucks for strange electrical issues similar to what was mentioned above.  So it makes me wonder how the failed units were installed.  For instance any difficulty getting the connector apart initially and/or any difficulty installing the unit maybe damaging the connector/connector pins inside the factory connector or the device connector and causing some issues.  

Posted
The under hood connector these things plug into is prone to failure. I’ve seen them replaced on about 5 trucks for strange electrical issues similar to what was mentioned above.  So it makes me wonder how the failed units were installed.  For instance any difficulty getting the connector apart initially and/or any difficulty installing the unit maybe damaging the connector/connector pins inside the factory connector or the device connector and causing some issues.  


Aside from some tabs that were a bit too long on the pulsar connectors causing a slight torment issue, the original connector was easy-off and the new one was easy-on. They are the same brand (Delphi) as the factory connectors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted
46 minutes ago, SILVER SLED said:

The under hood connector these things plug into is prone to failure. I’ve seen them replaced on about 5 trucks for strange electrical issues similar to what was mentioned above.  So it makes me wonder how the failed units were installed.  For instance any difficulty getting the connector apart initially and/or any difficulty installing the unit maybe damaging the connector/connector pins inside the factory connector or the device connector and causing some issues.  

What exactly fails on the connector? I had to file down those grey tabs as well. Once they were filed down the module engaged perfectly. It seems like a great design to prevent the plug from coming loose. If the cam is fully rotated and the red lock seated all the way in, I dont know how it could come loose.

Posted
On 11/6/2020 at 7:22 PM, Jav_eee said:

Filed down these two tabs a bit and all is well. Install, my issues aside, is easy. Fifteen minutes tops!

 

c45637b94541c2c43cb95291e3e092cc.jpg

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

If GM ever has a question as to whether or not you modded this vehicle... you just answered it, permanently. LOL

Posted
If GM ever has a question as to whether or not you modded this vehicle... you just answered it, permanently. LOL

 Yeah you’re right! Except if they ask I didn’t touch a thing. Must’ve come from the factory like that. Also after cleaning it up you can’t tell it was modified. Bottom line: I’m not worried about it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Jav_eee said:

Bottom line: I’m not worried about it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

 

You really shouldn't be. If you read the range warranty you are on your own dime regardless.

 

"The SELLER disclaims any warranty and expressly disclaims any liability for personal injury or damages. The BUYER acknowledges and agrees that the disclaimer of any liability for personal injury is a material term for this agreement and the BUYER agrees to indemnify the SELLER and to hold the SELLER harmless from any claim related to the item of the equipment purchased. Under no circumstances will the SELLER be liable for any damages or expenses by reason of use or sale of any such equipment."

Edited by It's Tim
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Firehawk T/A said:

What exactly fails on the connector? I had to file down those grey tabs as well. Once they were filed down the module engaged perfectly. It seems like a great design to prevent the plug from coming loose. If the cam is fully rotated and the red lock seated all the way in, I dont know how it could come loose.

What fails is the connector is the connection of the pins in the connector.  That connector design doesn't make a good connection for all the pins in the connector.   So if and install didn't go smooth, it may have worsened the condition of the connector.  

 

I'd recommend to those having problems, apply some dialectic grease to the connectors and see what happens.  Maybe I'm wrong, but like I said, I've seen too many issues with these connectors with out being tampered with.

Edited by SILVER SLED

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 381 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...