Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Kennewbike said:

Enormously better

1. My 6.2 with 10 speed shifts so smooth I can barely feel it. My 5.3 8 speed felt like I was getting rear ended many times it would shift gears.  I think its enormously better to drive a truck that shifts well

2. My 6.2 has a ton more power.  I think its enormously better with more power

3. My 6.2 feels simply more "fun" to drive.  I think its enormously better when you spend this kind of money that you enjoy what you are driving.

4. I'm "old school" and still believe in the saying "there is no replacement for displacement".

 

I don't use 93 octane because it is far more expensive where I live, and I did not feel any difference, nor see any MPG increase when I did use 93 octane.  I prefer to not spend money unless I see a return.

 

So you've never driven a 5.3 with a 10 speed?

Where is all that displacement taking you? Over speed bumps at the mall? Stop light to stop light? Where exactly do you use that "ton" of more power?

Edited by steelcity
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

You use to be able to tune it close to 6.2 power with a 5.3. Up until recently E-85 would do the trick. A little shopping could get you a killer deal on a loaded 5.3. A little tuning the right fuel your there. Saving a ton of money. When working I did that about every two years. Buying a 6.2 and running reg gas doesn’t make sense.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
24 minutes ago, steelcity said:

So you've never driven a 5.3 with a 10 speed?

Where is all that displacement taking you? Over speed bumps at the mall? Stop light to stop light? Where exactly do you use that "ton" of more power?

Sorry, that was a misprint by me. My first truck was a 2019 5.3 with 8 speed. My second truck was a 2020 5.3 with 10 speed, and now I have a 6.2 with 10 speed.  I enjoyed all of the trucks, but had very hard shifting on the 8 speed. I did really like the 5.3 10 speed a lot, until I got the 6.2. 

 

I noticed the difference in power even just leaving the dealership. The truck took a week to come in and I actually never really thought about the 6.2 and when was pulling out of the dealership, I noticed the difference. Sure you don't need the extra power, and no I don't race it "light to light", but lets face it, more power is nicer. The same went for the Camaro  and the Challenger I have. I could have bought them with 6 cylinder, but more power is more fun no matter how you twist it. 

 

I honestly didn't notice any power gains (seat of the pants is only measurement I used), and no increase in MPG with the 93, but I'll be honest and want to try again since others have said they noticed it. I definitely didn't buy this truck for "performance" (I have cars for that), but I just figured if I'm already spending this much money for a new HC, I may as well get one that puts the biggest smile on my face.  I can certainly see the advantages of the 3.0 for other needs as well. It all really comes down to what you want your truck for I guess.

Edited by Kennewbike
  • Like 2
Posted

The computer will derate the power on the 6.2L under load with 87 octane if it is pushed hard.  You might never notice it and running 87 won't hurt it.  But if I were towing heavy up hills I'd probably want higher octane gas than 87.   

Posted
21 hours ago, leverett.scott said:

 

I currently have a 2019 RST, 5.3, 8 speed. I'm trading it in the get the 10 speed, I had a ton of transmission problems with my old Silverado, not doing it with this one.

My problem is, I can't figure out what engine I want, 3.0 or 6.2.

 

6.2

Pro

- 420 hp emoji41.png

- Decent gas mileage

- Higher tow capability

Con

- Premium gas

- Towing gas mileage?

 

 

3.0

Pro

- Great gas mileage

- Good for towing

Con

I might miss the sound of a V-8.

Lower tow capability

Expensive in the shop once out of warranty.

 

I plan to buy a boat in the next couple yrs, do not tow much now. I plan to keep the truck for a long time.

 

Let me hear your opinions, thanks.

 

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Don't forget the price of DEF fluid, frequent fuel filter changes, and the higher price of fuel for the 3.0

  • Like 3
Posted
20 minutes ago, SILVER SLED said:

Don't forget the price of DEF fluid, frequent fuel filter changes, and the higher price of fuel for the 3.0

Frequent fuel filter changes?  Im 9,000 miles in and it still says 83% remaining .... 

 

DEF, cant argue that.  But, its use is not obscene ....

  • Like 2
Posted
The computer will derate the power on the 6.2L under load with 87 octane if it is pushed hard.  You might never notice it and running 87 won't hurt it.  But if I were towing heavy up hills I'd probably want higher octane gas than 87.   
Thanks for the info.

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

Posted
Frequent fuel filter changes?  Im 9,000 miles in and it still says 83% remaining .... 
 
DEF, cant argue that.  But, its use is not obscene ....
If you are driving in NORMAL conditions daily, how often do you all think you have to fill the DEF tank?

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

Posted

Tough question.  90% of my driving is towing a trailer.  So, Im not a good reference.

 

Again though, its not crazy use.  I dont think its ever been much below half when Ive filled it back up.  you get mileage notices on the info screen and there's a gauge.

 

Certainly not a disqualifier for the benefits of the 3.0

 

2 tank refills probably covers the cost of DEF compared to a 6.2 using premium. (mileage + fuel cost savings).

Posted
5 hours ago, steve841 said:

Tough question.  90% of my driving is towing a trailer.  So, Im not a good reference.

 

Again though, its not crazy use.  I dont think its ever been much below half when Ive filled it back up.  you get mileage notices on the info screen and there's a gauge.

 

Certainly not a disqualifier for the benefits of the 3.0

 

2 tank refills probably covers the cost of DEF compared to a 6.2 using premium. (mileage + fuel cost savings).

Here, diesel is quite a bit cheaper than high test.

 

DEF, from a bulk location (truck stop) is about $3.00 usgal.

Both 6.6's I ran got 1100 -1200 mpg, doing primarily daily driver work.  Based on posts here and other forums, it's appears that the def indicator is a bad way to try and determine mileage -- so I took it to a bulk pump and topped it off and recorded the odometer reading.

Someday I'll be able to post def mpg for this one, along with info about what the def level/range indicator has shown. 

 

So far (but it's early) it's using less fuel than the 6.6.  I'll be disappointed if the def usage isn't as good or better than the 6.6L

Posted
6 hours ago, leverett.scott said:

If you are driving in NORMAL conditions daily, how often do you all think you have to fill the DEF tank?

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk
 

I'm expecting 1200 mpg or more, based on experience with 2011 LML and 2018 L5P

Posted

Big thing right now too is GM cut the option price on the 3.0 so its cheaper to buy and cheaper to fill up at the tank.  Comparing them on fueleconomy.gov, its almost $5000 cheaper in fuel costs over 5 years to operate the diesel, and even if you add in DEF, fuel filters and a bit more for oil changes, its still cheaper in that 5 year window.  

Posted

Can't go wrong with any of them.  I'd be concerned about the long-term repair cost potential of the 3.0 though.  Anything with a 10-speed...8-speed is a turd.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...