Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

With all of GM's supply issues, my new 2500 still has no build date and will be missing some features.  I have just been offered an existing 3500 instead, which has all of the features I wanted except for the 5th wheel package which the dealer can install.  So ..  do I go with the 3500? Really reluctant to go bigger as I was actually considering a 1500 this time .. and worried about classificiations ===you know, when the government decides to make you safety and when they don't, lol.  Seems like the weight difference isn't much, but .. .wait for the 2500?  or go with this one?

Posted

Previous generations this was more of an issue as they capped the gvwr at 10k for the 2500 up until ‘20. Since then they are both well over 10k gvrw so I doubt there would be much difference, escpecially of you don’t already know because of certain regulations that you need to adhere to.  I actually had the opposite problem, I wanted a 3500 becuase they are more capable for essentially the same money with no drawbacks but all I could find was a 2500.  I would do it

 

Posted

The only real difference is the 3500 has an extra leaf spring. I believe the brakes are bigger too. Get the 3500.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Extra leafs, higher GVWR, 12 inch axle on diesel.  

 

Otherwise everything else is the same srw 2500 vs srw 3500.  Engine, trans, brakes, etc.  

Posted

I ordered a 2500 Denali with the 5th wheel package. I preferred a factory install since it'll come sealed and undercoated.  I've had a dealer installed 5th wheel and comparing them both really like the factory install.  I'd wait for the 2500 for this and the ride as others have commented.

Posted

I've had both already.  Zero difference in ride between the 2500 and 3500.  (I have the 3500 now).  

Posted

I think I would go with the 3500, you can always haul lighter, but you can’t haul heavier. As soon as you start looking at trailers......

  • Like 1
Posted

+1 on going with the 3500.  Depending on the state you can register both a 2500 and 3500 as 10k to stay under the limit so you don't need a dot number if you run it for your business.  

Posted

I rated my 2500 at 10k GVWR to allow me to pull a 16K trailer without a CDW license. 

Posted
On 3/8/2021 at 9:44 AM, gearheadesw said:

I think I would go with the 3500, you can always haul lighter, but you can’t haul heavier. As soon as you start looking at trailers......

^^^ What he said!!!

Posted

I would stay away from the factory hitch, that is the only thing I'm not happy with on my truck.  The goose ball is loose in the hitch and now it will not unlock and come out of the hitch.  Should have put a B & W in it and thrown the factory one in the trash!!!  Just my $0.02  your experience may vary!

:jester:

Posted

I use the B&W goose ball (TruckProUSA B&W GNXA2061) and it works great.  This is with the factory hitch.

Posted

better to have more than enough than not enough.......all things being equal with just an added spring in leaf i would go for 3500

 

if there was a serious ride or money issues maybe not.....but they are basically same in every way cept for more capability and they have it right now.....i would think a 3500 for anyone who tows and needs a HD.....they are such different trucks than a 1500

Posted

My vote is 3500. See too many people maxing or almost maxing out payload on 2500. I wouldn’t go 2500 anymore. 1500 or 3500. 
Your money though and you spending a lot of it so make sure you are happy with your choice. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Enjoy the new truck, it’s a beauty. I’m glad you’re keeping the OBS, I love those old trucks. 
    • With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...