Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 hours ago, jayoco said:

One more question if I may...

 

Is that engine build date or vehicle build date?  is there much of a delay between the time you guys build them and the time they are installed at the plant in Arlington?  I appreciate the response. 

That is the engine build date. Sorry I should have clarified that. My engine was built on 3-18-21 2nd shift at Tonawanda. I bought my truck the day it was delivered to the dealership on 4-7-21. So that is 20 days from engine assembly at Tonawanda to delivery at the dealership. 3-4-21 is the engine build break point date.

Posted
11 hours ago, Firehawk99 said:

That is the engine build date. Sorry I should have clarified that. My engine was built on 3-18-21 2nd shift at Tonawanda. I bought my truck the day it was delivered to the dealership on 4-7-21. So that is 20 days from engine assembly at Tonawanda to delivery at the dealership. 3-4-21 is the engine build break point date.

So we can assume that the engine build date is +/- 3 weeks ahead of the truck build date? Correct?  Is there any way to identify the exact build date of the engine?  

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Luster said:

So we can assume that the engine build date is +/- 3 weeks ahead of the truck build date? Correct?  Is there any way to identify the exact build date of the engine?  

20210806_103339.heicThat was the case for my truck, but I'm sure there will be exceptions. 

Yes. You need to find the Julian date sticker on the back driver side of the engine block. It's tough to see but you can do it. Here is a pic. of mine.20210806_103339.heic

20210806_103339.heic

Edited by Firehawk99
Posted
3 hours ago, Firehawk99 said:

20210806_103339.heicThat was the case for my truck, but I'm sure there will be exceptions. 

Yes. You need to find the Julian date sticker on the back driver side of the engine block. It's tough to see but you can do it. Here is a pic. of mine.20210806_103339.heic

20210806_103339.heicUnavailable

Perfect.  Thanks!

Posted
21 hours ago, Firehawk99 said:

The first 7 digits on mine were T221077. Which means T-Tonawanda, 2-2nd shift, 21-2021, 077- the 77th day of the calander year. Which was 3-18-21.

Is the Julian date sticker under the fuel rail cover? I couldn't get your picture to load.

Posted

My 2021 Yukon Denali recently had the engine light come on. It is currently at a local GMC service center awaiting parts. I was told that I have a lifter issue and that they will replaced all 16. It only has 3000+ miles on it. I am not confident about the reliability of my Denali. Especially with the engine getting opened up for a major repair. Thinking of getting it replaced. 

Posted
1 hour ago, George89 said:

My 2021 Yukon Denali recently had the engine light come on. It is currently at a local GMC service center awaiting parts. I was told that I have a lifter issue and that they will replaced all 16. It only has 3000+ miles on it. I am not confident about the reliability of my Denali. Especially with the engine getting opened up for a major repair. Thinking of getting it replaced. 

In all reality it's not a major repair. Things just have to come apart to reach the lifters.

 

In total they replace a few gaskets and bolts. Them being 2 head gaskets, head bolt kit, possibly the exhaust gaskets and not much else. Intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets are molded rubber and will be basically brand new but they may do those anyway.

 

If you want to replace something that is nearly new and take a loss, that is up to you but that just seems foolish. New vehicles have warranties for a reason, to cover possible problems and you just happen to have a problem that is covered 100%. You roll the dice with any new vehicle, if you trade it in and buy another guess what, you are taking another gamble.

 

I often carry a different mindset than others because I've been the mechanic. Things aren't always rainbows and butterflies. People are too soft, one little thing goes wrong and their world crumbles.

  • Like 4
Posted
On 8/5/2021 at 3:14 PM, tanner benjamin said:

First post, my 2021 high country is at the dealership with the bad lifters. I have 8360 miles so they will only repair the bad side.  How upset should I be? Pretty sure with the way they are treating me this will be my last GM.  If they acknowledged bad lifters, why would they not just replace all of them?  I am waiting for a manager a customer service to call me back,  sucks when you can't trust your brand new ride.

Sounds like you have a 5.3

Posted
3 hours ago, CamGTP said:

In all reality it's not a major repair. Things just have to come apart to reach the lifters.

 

In total they replace a few gaskets and bolts. Them being 2 head gaskets, head bolt kit, possibly the exhaust gaskets and not much else. Intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets are molded rubber and will be basically brand new but they may do those anyway.

 

If you want to replace something that is nearly new and take a loss, that is up to you but that just seems foolish. New vehicles have warranties for a reason, to cover possible problems and you just happen to have a problem that is covered 100%. You roll the dice with any new vehicle, if you trade it in and buy another guess what, you are taking another gamble.

 

I often carry a different mindset than others because I've been the mechanic. Things aren't always rainbows and butterflies. People are too soft, one little thing goes wrong and their world crumbles.

Agreed.  Those who know how to turn a wrench understand stuff breaks and can be repaired.  People spend a bunch of money and demand perfection, but forget they spent a bunch of money because of inflation with a side of politics.  $60k yesterday got you a whole lot more than $60k does today. 

Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, Transient said:

Agreed.  Those who know how to turn a wrench understand stuff breaks and can be repaired.  People spend a bunch of money and demand perfection, but forget they spent a bunch of money because of inflation with a side of politics.  $60k yesterday got you a whole lot more than $60k does today. 

Couldn't agree with you more. My 87 Silverado 4x4 bought brand new was $13,000 same truck now upper 30s to 40. Some people think just because they paid 50 grand and up that vehicle should have received special treatment when all it means is they got more options on their vehicle. A $60,000 truck today will be around 80 in about 15 years and they will be saying that truck 15-20 years ago only cost 60 grand about 15 years ago.

 

Stuff broke back then and it will today. My father-in-laws 04 4.3 went through a set of head gaskets when it was about a year old, no big deal it was fixed and is still running with 160,000 miles.

Edited by Silverado4x4
Posted

These engines for several generations have had hit and miss lifter failures. This is nothing new. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Every make/model has a pattern failure of some type. TSBs can make people paranoid, they are tools for technicians to be more efficient.

Posted
On 8/6/2021 at 10:42 AM, Firehawk99 said:

20210806_103339.heicThat was the case for my truck, but I'm sure there will be exceptions. 

Yes. You need to find the Julian date sticker on the back driver side of the engine block. It's tough to see but you can do it. Here is a pic. of mine.20210806_103339.heic

20210806_103339.heicUnavailable

Can you repost the picture of the location?  I'm having a heck of time locating this.  Thank you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...