Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey Guys,

 

How do most of you decipher your gas mileage? I am looking at adding a couple of upgrades to see if my gas mileage improves. Are you using the truck feed back on the dash or going old school and calculating from a full tank to empty based on miles? If you are using the truck feedback how accurate do you feel it is?

  • Like 1
Posted

The DIC is close enough unless you're going for perfection.  Then you would have to note down gallons per fill up and track mileage through an app or something.

 

And good luck with mileage improvements.  GM already squeezes the turnip pretty hard due to CAFE penalties and such.

  • Like 2
Posted

Both.

 

I log every fill and record both trip meter and hand calc for comparison.  

 

Lots of things impact the fuel economy of a given fill.

If you trying to see a change, then you'll need multiple fill before and after to be able to take out the normal variation from your observations.

 

If you change tire diameter it'll kinda screw that up -- since it will change the wheel revolutions per mile.  

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

@redwngr's method is the method I also use. Here's one I started about 15,000 miles ago hand calculated. As you can see the tank to tank number is all over the map so a longer term average is needed to 'see' the data and find cause and effect. 

 

image.png.2d47393f2342a29ec57109a1e4b23c83.png

 

Here's one for over 100,000 miles on another truck that shows longer term seasonal changes. I do this to parse the difference between the effect of a change and the effect of the seasons. 

 

image.thumb.png.ab33403d73d219abf3350acb9b8564fe.png

 

The information on the DIC is useful as instant feedback if you use it as such to modify habits but not much use in establishing trends and treads are required to parse 'cause and effect'. Even when they are not accurate they are directionally so which is helpful in behavior modification. As far as how accurate; some are, some are not. But you will find out comparing to the hand calculated numbers. 

 

May you find this useful. Enjoy your day. 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 2
Posted

On a new vehicle to me I hand calculate and compare to the display. After a few times I use the display mindful of any difference. Then it’s up to my right foot.

  • Like 1
Posted

For the life of me I just can't understand why people want to sink hundreds of dollars to try and improve fuel mileage as the money you spend to try and pick up maybe 1-2 mpg will take you years and years to pay for the money spent for the upgrade.

  • Like 4
Posted
4 minutes ago, Silverado4x4 said:

For the life of me I just can't understand why people want to sink hundreds of dollars to try and improve fuel mileage as the money you spend to try and pick up maybe 1-2 mpg will take you years and years to pay for the money spent for the upgrade.

Kinda like people who pay $10k-$20k more for a hybrid instead of a gasser when it'll take years and years to pay for the money spent for the upgrade.  Fools and money are often departed.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, Silverado4x4 said:

For the life of me I just can't understand why people want to sink hundreds of dollars to try and improve fuel mileage as the money you spend to try and pick up maybe 1-2 mpg will take you years and years to pay for the money spent for the upgrade.

Agreed.

It's silly to "buy" a vehicle when one can't afford the fuel. 😉

  • Like 1
Posted

I just watch the fuel gauge when it hits 1/4 tank time to fill up!

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Agreed.  There is no positive outcome to this venture.  Especially since GM already does their best and spends MILLIONS to try and squeeze out a half MPG here or there.  There is no easy aftermarket upgrade for improved mileage.

  • Like 1
Posted

I ran 2 tanks and hand calculated my gas mileage early on. i'm actually .2/.3MPG better then the DIC. 

I used this to verify how close my DIC is to actual. 

Use the trip to keep it separate. 

Posted
5 hours ago, Silverado4x4 said:

For the life of me I just can't understand why people want to sink hundreds of dollars to try and improve fuel mileage as the money you spend to try and pick up maybe 1-2 mpg will take you years and years to pay for the money spent for the upgrade.

 

That would be true if the cost to improve mileage were in fact hundreds of dollars. Some do and your point is well taken.

 

But:

 

Consider how much money it cost to modify behavior vs net gain in mileage? Simple feedback methods the cost you nothing but time can and have, in my case, netted gains of 17%. Paying close attention to fuel vs tire pressures, while not a gain, prevents a loss that is an average killer. A change of motor oil I've recorded a repeatable gain of 5%. It cost me nothing but the effort to make a choice and the personal effort to parse out. Trip planning that limits the number of 'cold starts' is HUGE. Few things eat gas like warming up cold lubricants. 

 

There are changes, such as wheel alignment that, given the starting point, can be 5-10%. While one cost, true, the gains are no only mileage but tire wear and safety and no really an 'additional cost' but a benefit from a routine cost done right. There's an alignment where ever wheel is 'in spec' and yet all different and less than optimal and there is a precision lowest drag alignment. They cost the same 😉 

 

It doesn't cost a guy a single red cent to think. Hurts sometimes, but cost nothing.   

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...