Jump to content

My 2020 caught fire

Kyle Paton
 Share

Recommended Posts

Kyle Paton Enthusiast

Kyle Paton

Posted
  • Author
Posted
44 minutes ago, richard wysong said:

Also curious to what codes it had, I'm sure GM has them thanks to Onstar, Possibly overheated cat or do you think it may have been electrical/fuel issue?

 

I'm sure they do have them and I'd love to know more about that. The cab smelled sort of like a baseboard heater moments before the smoke started. Firefighters said electrical, but they were looking at a burned out shell. 

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

mjonesjr84
mjonesjr84

I couldn't help but laugh at this statement. GM doesn't owe you anything, your insurance does.   As said before, vehicles burn daily, even new vehicles. There are SEVERAL factors that can le

Jus Cruisin
Jus Cruisin

Vehicles catch fire and burn to the ground daily. I-94 was closed this morning with one in Detroit. Out of warranty I wouldn't expect any manufacturer to do anything. Insurance gives you a check and y

Kyle Paton
Kyle Paton

17 days ago. While driving at highway speed, smoke began to appear from the centre stack/console area and then there were flames. I pulled over, got out, called 911 and watched my truck burn to the gr

Posted Images

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

GM isn't the only company that ignores people or has poor customer service. We have had bad experiences with a few major companies. It's the norm now. They still make millions or billions, so why care. 

jaxcam02 Enthusiast

jaxcam02

Posted
Posted

No offense but you need to stop posting online about specifics. Hire a lawyer and keep all the parameters about the incident between yourself and the lawyer until there is a resolution. That is the best advice I can offer.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

By the way, Welcome to the Forum! keep  us posted on how things go with insurance and the lawyer, Good Luck!

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Kyle Paton said:

So I paid $4000 for a warranty that was only 5% used at that mileage. As far as I'm concerned GM owes me 95% of $4000.

 

I couldn't help but laugh at this statement. GM doesn't owe you anything, your insurance does.

 

As said before, vehicles burn daily, even new vehicles. There are SEVERAL factors that can lead to a vehicle fire, that unfortunately you can never investigate because of the amount of damage. It could have been a short in a wire than an animal bit into or it could have been a nest or something an animal pulled into the truck. 

 

Stuff happens, suck it up, make an insurance claim, buy a new truck, and move on. Your lumps are not anyone's fault, it is life. A lawsuit against GM is bad advice.

  • Like 4
Kyle Paton Enthusiast

Kyle Paton

Posted
  • Author
Posted
33 minutes ago, mjonesjr84 said:

 

I couldn't help but laugh at this statement. GM doesn't owe you anything, your insurance does.

 

As said before, vehicles burn daily, even new vehicles. There are SEVERAL factors that can lead to a vehicle fire, that unfortunately you can never investigate because of the amount of damage. It could have been a short in a wire than an animal bit into or it could have been a nest or something an animal pulled into the truck. 

 

Stuff happens, suck it up, make an insurance claim, buy a new truck, and move on. Your lumps are not anyone's fault, it is life. A lawsuit against GM is bad advice.


If the odometer was at 500 kms, would you maintain this position? I’m not being sarcastic, I’m asking honestly. 
 

I can’t accept that insurance is wholly responsible for paying out on something like this. Everyone just defaults straight to insurance, I don’t understand. 
 

At what point does the responsibility shift from insurance to manufacturer? 

  • Haha 1
mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Kyle Paton said:


If the odometer was at 500 kms, would you maintain this position? I’m not being sarcastic, I’m asking honestly. 
 

I can’t accept that insurance is wholly responsible for paying out on something like this. Everyone just defaults straight to insurance, I don’t understand. 
 

At what point does the responsibility shift from insurance to manufacturer? 

 

Yes I would still have that opinion. Vehicles burn for various reasons that are beyond manufacturer control. Unfortunately the damage done to a vehicle when they burn don't allow for cause investigation. 

 

You could have even hit something on the road to cause the damage that led to the fire.

 

Pull up your britches, file that insurance claim, and buy a new truck. Stop pushing blame on others, you have no idea the reason it burned, this any lawsuit will get tossed. You have to prove it was GM's fault and good luck with that.

Edited by mjonesjr84
  • Like 2
64BAwagon Senior Enthusiast

64BAwagon

Posted
Posted

I think youre looking for answers that are impossible to give you. I get that youre upset, and rightfully so, but in the end you appear to expect GM to give you answers to impossible questions. There is literally no human way to determine the exact cause of that fire other than it involved, heat, fuel, oxygen and an uninhibited chemical chain reaction. Whatever the firefighters told you on scene was a wild guess, nothing more. 

Yes GM built that vehicle but it has been out of their control for some time now. They could just as easily lay it off on you and claim it was your actions that caused it. By your own admission you drove it while you knew it to be malfunctioning. I understand that your dealer was uncooperative but if you thought it was that big a deal why did you not force the dealer to give you a loaner ?   See how easy it is to twist things around ?  Like I said, count your blessings, let your insurance agent do his job and move on. 

  • Thanks 1
Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, Kyle Paton said:

 

 

 

The truck was still inside a full extended warranty to 160,000 kms. The truck was at 103,000 kms. Factory warranty it to 100,000 kms. So I paid $4000 for a warranty that was only 5% used at that mileage. As far as I'm concerned GM owes me 95% of $4000.

 

 

If you bought the GM Extended warranty you will get back the remaining warranty money that is left on that warranty. Same goes for trading in a vehicle of the unused ext. warranty, so in your case you will get back 95% of your ext. warranty money.

  • Like 2
OliverDennis52 Enthusiast

OliverDennis52

Posted
Posted
22 hours ago, Kyle Paton said:

At what point does the responsibility shift from insurance to manufacturer? 

 

Let your insurance worry about that.  You pay good money for an insurance policy so that you can simply call them, have them pay you without having to try and prove what happened.  Once they pay you, they (like you) want the responsible party to pay.  They'll go after GM if there is evidence that it was a defect, etc.  Have them take on the fight, not you.

  • Like 2
Enough Enthusiast

Enough

Posted
Posted

28 years in the Collision Repair Industry. Unless there was personal injury or death, your insurance company will pay off per their guidelines, write off their loss, and send the truck to a dismantler/salvage yard,

 

Given the condition of the truck post fire it is not worth the insurance company's time and effort to investigate the cause of the fire. Manufacturer feels the same way. Cheaper just to pay off and move on. Cost/benefit ratio. The world we live in now.

  • Like 1
Tom73 Enthusiast

Tom73

Posted
Posted

File with your insurance and get that settled. Then contact your extended warranty provider and advise them you no longer own the vehicle and request a refund of the balance which will be pro-rated per whatever the contact states. 

BIGDOGx Senior Enthusiast

BIGDOGx

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 3/30/2023 at 4:41 PM, mjonesjr84 said:

 

I couldn't help but laugh at this statement. GM doesn't owe you anything, your insurance does.

 

As said before, vehicles burn daily, even new vehicles. There are SEVERAL factors that can lead to a vehicle fire, that unfortunately you can never investigate because of the amount of damage. It could have been a short in a wire than an animal bit into or it could have been a nest or something an animal pulled into the truck. 

 

Stuff happens, suck it up, make an insurance claim, buy a new truck, and move on. Your lumps are not anyone's fault, it is life. A lawsuit against GM is bad advice.

Well let me laugh at yours seeing as i myself have had gm prorate and refund an extended warranty i bought through a dealership because they gave me a complementary gmpp better warranty because of something they screwed up. My truck didn't even burn down to the ground either! 

 

Maybe show a shred of compassion here, the guy had to watch his truck burn down to the ground and it's bad enough he had to deal with a dealership and manufacturer who pretends like this is an everyday occurance, he doesn't need that here also!

Edited by BIGDOGx
  • Like 2
TxSquid78 Enthusiast

TxSquid78

Posted
Posted

Damn....had this happen to me on a 98 Z28 while I was test driving it. Made it out unscathed but had issues with the dealer not giving me my car back that I was going to trade in until I paid for the Z. My insurance company paid it off and went back and sued the dealer and GM for a faulty car...and won the judgement.

Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, TxSquid78 said:

Damn....had this happen to me on a 98 Z28 while I was test driving it. Made it out unscathed but had issues with the dealer not giving me my car back that I was going to trade in until I paid for the Z. My insurance company paid it off and went back and sued the dealer and GM for a faulty car...and won the judgement.

Wait a minute this doesn't make any sense, you were test driving a Z28 and it caught on fire while doing the test drive and the dealer would not give you your car back that you were going to trade in, you didn't own the Z28 yet so why wouldn't they give your car back?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...