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1" motofab level 35x12.5 BFG KO2's

No green grass or nice clean truck here unfortunately. I hate having to get acquainted with a brand new vehicle that looks like crap as soon as you pull onto the road after washing it. The amount of sand and associated dust is amazing. Yes, the truck is Havana metallic brown but it looks black most of the time.

This is why I’m just gonna opt out of Pro vs Con on these things lol...it’s like any Mod we choose to do, do it if ya like it

I'm sure you are correct there. I'd be willing to bet that only 2% of all 14-18 trucks even have a catch can. Almost 4.5 million trucks have been sold since 2014. I doubt if 100,000 trucks have catch cans . Just a guess but I bet I'm pretty close.

It's the fuel pump priming up. I personally love the sound. Makes it sound like you got some kind of spaceship or something loll

I'm talking about the dumbasses that write up your service order when you pull your truck into the service area. They aren't too bright.

It’s not because they’re not beneficial. It’s because the other 4.4 million probably don’t know what a catch can even is. I bet over a million of those truck owners have never even thrown anything in the bed. This very forum is full of people that turn their trucks into badass rock crawling mud bogging trucks and never even get em dirty. What is that about lol.

Here are some pics of my RST. The lower bumper is from a LTZ or High Country and we simply painted the chrome portion summit white and reinstalled. It's still a work in progress (also dirty) and as you can see the lights are still missing. I had fast headlights remove the orange and replace with clear lenses. I will be doing a full build thread within the next 2 weeks. Lots of mods to share.

Did a full paint correction, took 18 hours but turned out great. This is after washing, claying, compounding, polishing, ipa, sealant. Tires had one coat of sealant, a second to follow. Trim, windows and wheels not yet done, and tonneau cover was still off. I removed 98% of the surface defects using microfiber pads on my da.

I found very good quality plastic letter inserts in chrome. These are not decal types. https://www.bdtrims.com They sell them in different colors, and in two types: Flat and Domed. I ordered Domed and I'm so happy with the quality.

Heres a picture from when I first got it. I have done some mods and plan to do many more. Ill update with future and past mods as I go along. —MOD LIST— -OEM High Country Grille -Black Flame Customs HID Projector Headlights —AuxBeam LED High Beams —Sylvania LED Front Turn Signals —Cutequeen Resistors -Debadged -Antenna Delete -OEM High Country LED Taillights —Sylavania LED Reverse Lights -VIPmotoZ LED License Plate Lights -Speed Daddy OEM “Style” Running Boards -OEM Chrome Door Handles -OEM Chrome Tailgate Handle -Tonno Pro Lo Pro Tonneau Cover -OEM Plastic Bed Liner -Dee Zee Tailgate Assist -Removed Aero Spats -Removed Front Air Dam -OEM Polished Exhaust Tip -Replaced A/T tires with Bridgestone Dueler H/Ts -KDL Innovations Card Slot Phone Holder -Stinky Things Custom Air Freshener -JX Accessories LED Third Brake Light -(9) GM Bed Cargo Tie Downs -DFDM National Polished Stainless Steel License Plate Frames with Screw Covers -OEM Chrome 3 Button Key Fob -OEM Carpet Rear Wheel Well Liners

I'm sure you are correct. I asked the service writer at the Chevy dealer when I was getting a free oil change about catch cans . I asked if they could void the warranty? He said " what's a catch can?" Another time I was there with my other truck for a free oil change I asked another guy about the Range AFM Disabler and if it voids the warranty. Again this doofus said "What's a Range AFM Disabler?" The other part about the mall crawlers I get that . You gotta be cool you know.

I’m just sitting at just below 130k on my 2014 purchased in October of 2014 with 127 miles on it.

.. gave my rear seat a lift.. stacked six 1/2" washers under the mounts to provide ~5/8" of lift.. gives adults a more upright seating position.. I'll do the rear seat fold mod when I install my audio system when the weather warms up and it stops snowing up here.

Holy smokes! Dual high beams?! Now all you need is a train horn.

after deleting the trans t-stat i run 120-135 all day long, no aux trans. cooler nessecary, even with a 7500 lbs trailer towing in the desert, I never got past 150F after 120 mile drive with the trailer, I do have 3.73 gears

Where'd you pick the HC grill up from? I want those inserts on my painted shell bad. Lol.

My Trailboss is Northsky blue. Not sure if that's the same as the Pacific blue on the GMC or not

Moto Metal mo970’s 20x9 0 offset 295/55r20 Cooper Discoverer Stt pro rough country 2” level 35% side window tint 5% Dixie strip on the windshield

Gave it a go earlier today and inserted the diode. The brown connector comes off easily but the wires are so close together that the I couldn’t get the diode to work. The fogs were not lighting up with the drls. I’ll probably have to order the wire jumper that the OP requested or maybe give it a second try later. I know i struggled a bit with my 17 but not this much lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GM keeps a flash count on the ECM. Even if you put the stock tune back, they'll still be able to see that it was tuned. Just a heads up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yeap... The 2014+ (Or any of the new LT engine computer is basically a "black box"... it saves the times it has been flashed, and which parameters were changed.

Very nice I was looking at that kit but I'm lowered and it doesn't fit. I have a over the leaf helper. There are pros and cons. The helper have a linar bag vs two bellows. Said to be smoother but that bag can handle a lot more. If 5-6psi is raising the rear and stiff. You must adjust the working lengths of the bag. On that kit this means remove the factory steel bump stop mount this will buy you many inches. Allowing the bag to be longer at ride height and also more air before it lifts the rear. I had the other problem I needed a spacer under the bag. As my kit was set for 6+ lowering and I was at 5 in the rear. You want the truck at any rake it can be as small as "1 or more. This way the truck weight and ride is the best. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Here is my 2017. Used to be a W/T.

Are those air compressor filters? If so great idea.

I surely don't want to die from lung cancer so I just added a second catch can in series to be safer! Whew!

That's why I went with Air ride, plus the complete kit comes with a pump, air pressure gage, I can add and delete on the fly without leaving the drivers seat. Easy to install, second truck that I have owned with this system. Soon and I did it in the garage, did not need a hoist to do it. I mounted the pump in the spare battery location as well... I can get some pictures later if you need to see them...

Actually, climate has lots to do with it as those living in colder conditions do seem to collect a more diluted mixture of oil mixed with condensation. I applaud SS502 for even taking the time to show all of us the proof that this “OILY” substance captured before re-entering the air induction. Imagine what you see in the pan was not captured by the catch can but was sucked into the air induction, not being burned off but causing carbon buildup as it gunks up the valves etc. I don’t have a catch can, mainly cause I don’t feel like dealing with emptying it and cause I don’t keep vehicles long enough to actually give a crap but I am loving my GMC. Meanwhile, I’m using fuel treatments as well as the best oil in the market (Amsoil) along with best oil filters in hopes to avoiding a dirty engine. I’m having my vehicle professionally cleaned if and when it’s time to do so. I’m always intrigued with the findings members like SS502 have provided us all while on their dime and time. Sent from above

It says directly on the website that it is on top of the existing 2” lift for a total of 6”.

This is known? Right. A guy would have problems trying to fit a 35x12.5 Nitto Mud Grappler that actually measures out to 35". BFG 35's are spec'd at 34.5. So no, it's not known that all 35's fit.

Heres some recent mods I have done. High Country grille, Black Flame Customs headlights, & OEM chrome mirror caps. High Country taillights, OEM chrome tailgate handle, LED third brake light, & license plate lights. “OEM Style” running boards & OEM chrome door handles.

The factory exhaust manifolds are cast from a high silicon alloy, but still iron and can be welded. The front or rear bolt is subject to snap off, due to lot of expansion and contraction with the engines temperature cycles, but mounted to an aluminum cylinder head, the expansion rate is still 2X aluminum to 1X the iron exhaust manifold. The best fix is, if the bolt is broke, (Sorry) but elongate the bolt hole at the ends and use a stainless steel flat washer to allow some sliding while properly torqued. If your lucky, the bolt will stick out enough to get vise grips in it, or weld a nut on it. But is below flush, use a center punch and an angle drill to get a straight hole drilled into it. I able, drill all of the way through it if you feel comfortable that it's going straight. Use another exhaust bolt to gauge the length of depth to know when to stop, but the drill will "Drop-In" if you go all of the way thru. I believe this relieves stress in the bolt, but most come out easy. Plus, you can spray a penetrating oil into the hole and let soak...While you contemplate the task with a beer in one hand and wait to let the liquid work. "Warning; This maybe a two or three beer job at this point." Use Zip 45 penetrating pray oil, but everyone has their favorites. "The easy-out" Most have aggressive reverse coarse flutes to aid in grabbing the broken bolt. I like the brand "Ridgid" sold in different sets, even on SnapOn trucks, but they use guides, a fluted extractor tool of the correct size and have a match nut, that slides over it up close to the piece. Using a hand ratchet and deep 6-point socket works best as you can feel the movement or resistance. I have a habit of using a good anti-seize compound like Permatex Anti-Seize lubricant 80078 I think is 8 oz. with cap mounted brush. I have 6 or 8 or these. Since the late 60's working on motorcycles and imports with aluminum to iron parts, I have found invaluable. I have seen the bolts break on the ends, but not the middle. So the expansion theory makes more sense to me. I will us it every time on my own vehicles. Not related, but use dielectric grease on connectors, bulbs, flashlights and even smoke detectors. Everything electrical especially on really & fuses in under-hood electrical centers. (Note: Sold for cheap in home improvement stores with an automotive departments / don't forget "Marine Dealers, as they have large tubes cheaper by the ounce.) The OEM exhaust gasket is a multi-layer steel type. Aftermarket replacements and many sold with headers, use a graphite type. I don't use these types, only the OEM types. Get the original gasket and put eyeballs on the holes location while on the head. Don't forget to check the depth once removed with a wire or whatever you can use, just to make sure it's clean all of the way in. For diagnostics, short of having a mechanic's mechanical or electronic stethoscope, use a length of heater hose to the ear. A 4 or 5 foot length of 3/4" is all you need. Have a buddy start it for you if it only makes noise cold. Just place the hose near the suspected location first, then have your hand end / ear ready. You will be amazed how well it amplifies the sound, but this helps you figure out where the noise is coming from. A good light and a swivel mirror on a stick, will allow you to see the black power if exhaust is leaking to help locate while cold. Best of luck. Hope this helps.

Is that too simple or what?

Call Mark Johnson at IPSCO.org upper hose inline thermostat housing. Gut factory housing. Do not block or remove return hose to tank. It keeps the pump happy. Drill bleed hole in flange .0625 to .0781. This is not to make it cooler but to provide some water movement past the min flow bypass in the stock housing to give the wax pill something to work with. Stant Supersant 160 F Part # 45356 Requires some tuning. Mainly used on boosted motors. Not really a street item otherwise. Reische 170 F Part # NB54 I expect this is the Dayco part. a $10 part Imported from Australia with silly shipping charges. Dayco 170 F Part # DT14E Both Dayco and Reische are over $50 this side of the world. Stant Superstat 180 F Part # 45358 My favorite. Removes 20 to 30 F from the system, Very ECU friendly. Stant OE Type 195 F Part # 13359 Could also use the factory housing and GM # 12674634 actually 197 F. Stant OE Type 205 F Part # 13352. A choice if you swap thermostats with the seasons.... Flepro #35710 Seal required and supplied with one of the Stant thermostats of your choice by IPSCO. After three gasket failures from OEM type replacements, JET, Summit, Mishimoto, etc I quit. Whipple has a 160 F all brass gasketless for the stock housing for boosted motors. I do not have a part number for that one. Great idea that needs a few more choices. The fancy machine work is not standard. Mark did this at my request. Clip from my build thread: pg 24: [First outing today 184-186 F water. 153-163 F transmission. 204 - 210 F engine oil. 82 - 87 F air temperature. 60% humidity. 55 - 60 mph. 12 - 15 mph wind on my 12 then on my 6 round trip.] Trans is thermostat delete.

True dat. Yesterday I had a new windshield installed in my truck. This is 70 miles round trip from home to town. We dropped the truck of at the glass installer and were told to come back in 2 hours. 1 hour to install and 1 hour to let it sit before driving it. So we walk around town on a blistery day killing time. Eat lunch, walk through some shops to browse and also to get indoors. Get back to the glass shop and they installed the wrong windshield. The one they installed didn't have the tinting across the top or a shade band like the original, just plain glass. They also got black sealer on the interior. Have an appointment for April 8th to get it replaced with the correct one. This is why I try do to everything myself. I go to the pros and get sub par work. Same reason warranties don't impress me.

Installed the arms last night at the shop. Probably took about 4 hrs. Tried removing the cam bolts w the strut in. 2 came out, 1 on each side but the front ones were hindered by the spring so removed the struts. Once the struts were out it went by much faster and smoother. I think trying with the strut in added some un-needed time. I did it on a lift but could have tackled it with some Jackstands and a Jack. I advice 2 ppl just to manipulate different parts but on your own would just take a bit longer. At the shop now getting an alignment. Already feels a little better. I will say these things are beefy. Definitely worth the upgrade and price Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

162xxx on my 2014 LTZ. Love this truck.

Good eye. The opposite side of the same desert. Ocotillo by the 8 freeway AKA plaster city, near superstition mountains (about 10 miles west). Actually much prefer this spot to Ocotillo wells. Both for family type riding with little kids and high speed stuff with fast machines. A lot less people with a mix of families and serious off roaders/ experienced racers not much riff raff with the exception of a few tweakers here and there that actually live there.

Naw, I’m gonna keep posting my little Pyrex container until I get to 1000 miles like I said I would. I’m not mad at you and I’ve seen the milky results that are as you said probably 90% water, mine I don’t believe is mainly water but you can certainly see some in it.

GM installs catch cans on all boosted V8's, and perhaps even the LT1 cars if I am not mistaken. All LT4/5 cars are equipped with catch cans from what I have been told. So they have done the research, they know it works. But they also know your 6.2L Silverado is not going to hit the road course once a month and spend a few hours above 4,000rpm like a Z06 or 1LE owner does. If they can put out a product cheaper, they will. That includes holding back goodies that may make your vehicle last longer. The quicker we destroy them, the sooner we are back at the dealer buying another one, the automakers know that as much as we do.

It's Friday. Forgive me, father, for I have modded.

No I do not.

I hat to add fuel to a catch can debate. I can say that the first time I ever emptied mine, it was in December and I drained 6 oz of fluid that had the very milky coffee look. Meaning it was mostly water and the typical 1-2 oz of oil. I drained it into one of those oil drain pans and left it outside overnight. The next morning the mixture was frozen solid. So i'd argue yes it can freeze in your catch can given the right moisture content. However, at least with an RX can, the inlet port is at the top and the outlet port is at the top so unless the can is 100% full of liquid, even if the liquid freezes you shouldn't block the air flow through the can, you would only have diminished oil catching capabilities because not as much would pass through the filter media. So over pressurization of the crankcase shouldn't be a problem. With that being said, I still recommend knowing your can's limits and understanding how long you can go in certain temperatures before emptying it and make sure it doesn't get overfilled. Generally, I go about 3,000 miles in mid July before emptying it and about 500 miles in the dead cold of winter before emptying it. And I scale inbetween that range depending on temperatures. I don't know of any studies that prove engines with catch cans are better off than engines without them. I've read enough to fall into the camp that thinks if it's catching oil, then that oil isn't getting baked onto your valves and that's a good thing. Whether it matters in the long run or not, I'm not sure we can really say one way or the other because no one has done a true scientific experiment to prove it. But, companies like Toyota are designing solutions to clean the valves on DI engines so the industry recognizes that DI has an inherent design flaw with valve buildup that needs to be addressed. The toyota solution is to use a combination port injection/direct injection setup where at certain intervals, the engine sprays fuel on the valves to clean them, then changes back over to direct injection. I'm finding it increasingly difficult not to become a Toyota owner haha

Just had these 35x12.5R18 BFGoodrich KO2's put on yesterday. Trailboss with 1" level, no rubbing. They may have fit without the level, but I didn't like the rake. The manager at the 4 wheel shop looked at the truck and said there was no way they'd fit. I insisted that they mount one up and test it, they fit perfectly. I may have to adjust the wheel well liner a little, will have to see how close the tire gets once I flex it offroad. I'll take some better pictures when I get a chance. The pics make it look like the front is higher than the back, it's not, ground wasn't level. No more listening to the song of the Duratracs!

The insert is removable I took them out today where are you located Jeff

Might check with some local body shops to see if the have any broken grilles out back in the junk pile you could rob the honeycomb out of for a couple bucks.

I put on HD2 from RC. Love them still and they hug up to the body really close - which was one of my requirements.

This mod keeps the fogs on anytime the park lamps and/or headlamps(hi and lo beam) are on. If you just want to keep them on with hi beams connect a diode from pin 18 (bn/vt) to 10 (bn/white). Setup this way you will have to initially turn the fogs on manually to activate with lo beams.

Hello, I also have Sirius and just in certain areas around town it looses the signal. Day night, overcast doesn’t make a difference. This is my third truck and it has done this in all my trucks.