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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

MotoMedic
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thetruck454 Enthusiast

thetruck454

Posted
Posted (edited)

I called TRS and according to them I am the only one with this issue, but the bulbs are so long you can't fit the connector inside the housing or it hits the caps. Earlier in this post someone suggested heaating up the caps to stretch them, but I have not tried this yet.

 

I'm guess it was people on here that ordered my extended caps. Got two who did and would like to hear if they liked them.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Got any left? Edited by thetruck454
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MotoMedic
MotoMedic

**The Sierra & Silverado HID topics have been merged and edited, in an attempt to create one comprehensive HID topic**   This topic will cover HID information, HID headlight bulb upgrades, HID f

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

-----HID FOG LIGHTS-----   Installing HID fog light bulbs in the 2014's has so far been a mixed bag. Some members have installed operated them for months without incident, while others have had thei

FastWS6TA
FastWS6TA

What is your name? I will look you up and reply. You wouldn't believe the amount of emails we get in a day. It is staggering and the best we can do is quickly sift through them looking for the easiest

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WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Ok, so I've been having some problems with my TRS kit. It was running for a while but now I am getting no power to the driver side headlight. I already removed the harness, did a fresh install, sanded down the paint where my ground connections are attached, swapped ballasts, bulbs and nothing. Only passenger side headlight will power. I contacted TRS customer support and they have been great, the guy suggested I use a volt meter to test my ground connections and test the ballast plugs. Next he suggested to swap out the igniter cables to see if they would be the culprit, I admit, I did not do this when swapping ballasts. Finally he suggested I swap the relays with one another to see if the issue is a relay.

 

So far I have completely removed the harness and next time I put it back in to test I am going to just ground all my connections to the battery to remove the possibility of a faulty ground.

 

Is there anyone else going through this? I am running the oe bulbs again and forgot how awful the factory light output is.

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

Ok, so I've been having some problems with my TRS kit. It was running for a while but now I am getting no power to the driver side headlight. I already removed the harness, did a fresh install, sanded down the paint where my ground connections are attached, swapped ballasts, bulbs and nothing. Only passenger side headlight will power. I contacted TRS customer support and they have been great, the guy suggested I use a volt meter to test my ground connections and test the ballast plugs. Next he suggested to swap out the igniter cables to see if they would be the culprit, I admit, I did not do this when swapping ballasts. Finally he suggested I swap the relays with one another to see if the issue is a relay.

 

So far I have completely removed the harness and next time I put it back in to test I am going to just ground all my connections to the battery to remove the possibility of a faulty ground.

 

Is there anyone else going through this? I am running the oe bulbs again and forgot how awful the factory light output is.

Did you check the connection to the factory wire? Mine was loose there so they relay would loose contact and quit grabbing power from the battery.
WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Did you check the connection to the factory wire? Mine was loose there so they relay would loose contact and quit grabbing power from the battery.

I will next time, I had the kit installed when power stopped going to driver side. Removed harness and reinstalled kit and same thing. So I re-connected all connections but it could be possible that one of the wires came loose from the actual plug. I will check again here in a few days when I get a chance to work on it.

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

I will next time, I had the kit installed when power stopped going to driver side. Removed harness and reinstalled kit and same thing. So I re-connected all connections but it could be possible that one of the wires came loose from the actual plug. I will check again here in a few days when I get a chance to work on it.

Doing that fixed my issue. It was a pain the ass to remove the bulb and all that but it was worth it.
WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Doing that fixed my issue. It was a pain the ass to remove the bulb and all that but it was worth it.

I'm guessing you are referring to the one in the bottom right hand side of the image below that says "flip this connection"

 

f2FdUM0.jpg

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

I'm guessing you are referring to the one in the bottom right hand side of the image below that says "flip this connection"

 

f2FdUM0.jpg

Yes and no. My Anzo Headlights use a different connection and the hid bulb come with just the black and red wires separate with male connection on each so I just stuck those inside the Anzo connection and tapped them. But the were coming loose. I wish they had a solid connection for the h7s
morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted (edited)

How do you determine if you need single or dual input?

 

Oops, miss read your question.

 

See if the side of the headlight turns off if you flash the signal of that side. if it does, you need dual. I dont think the GM needs that though.

Edited by morrislee
  • Like 1
Sixstroke Enthusiast

Sixstroke

Posted
Posted (edited)

Oops, miss read your question.

 

See if the side of the headlight turns off if you flash the signal of that side. if it does, you need dual. I dont think the GM needs that though.

Much appreciated.

 

Regarding DDM's Error Eliminators, they offer the BOW3's and 4700uF caps. From my understanding, the BOW3's are intended for vehicles without reverse polarity. So, I would assume I need the 4700uF caps?

 

Thanks again

 

 

*edit* For reference, this is for a '15 Silverado W/T

Edited by Sixstroke
morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted

Much appreciated.

 

Regarding DDM's Error Eliminators, they offer the BOW3's and 4700uF caps. From my understanding, the BOW3's are intended for vehicles without reverse polarity. So, I would assume I need the 4700uF caps?

 

Thanks again

 

 

*edit* For reference, this is for a '15 Silverado W/T

I dont think reverse polarity exist.... You just plug it in, if it does not work, flip the connector. I never bought the premade capacitor, I just bought ones from local electronic store for a few dollars and crimp the leads to the relay harness signal in with the polarity checked using a volt meter

Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
Posted

Much appreciated.

 

Regarding DDM's Error Eliminators, they offer the BOW3's and 4700uF caps. From my understanding, the BOW3's are intended for vehicles without reverse polarity. So, I would assume I need the 4700uF caps?

 

Thanks again

 

 

*edit* For reference, this is for a '15 Silverado W/T

I used the 4700uF caps from DDM that came with the kit and I haven't had any issues thus far. I personally would recommend getting them. That way you cant go wrong.

morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted

I used the 4700uF caps from DDM that came with the kit and I haven't had any issues thus far. I personally would recommend getting them. That way you cant go wrong.

Actually, some of those blows up. The ones mike1220 got end up blowing up and shred pieces everywhere. That is why I end up making my own as I know how they work :)

  • Like 1
WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Yes and no. My Anzo Headlights use a different connection and the hid bulb come with just the black and red wires separate with male connection on each so I just stuck those inside the Anzo connection and tapped them. But the were coming loose. I wish they had a solid connection for the h7s

Just to circle back on this problem I found out what was wrong. One of my relays was completely corroded.

 

2Z9ybty.jpg

 

DwDUHxG.jpg

 

Not sure what went wrong here. It looks like there was some water/humidity in there but if that's the case it probably happened during manufacturing as my truck has never gone off-road and my relay sits in between my air box and fender.

 

I've sent the pictures to their customer support. Hopefully he can send me another harness soon. I would like a full kit because even though I tested both ballasts I'm not sure if the corroded relay will affect their lifespan. We'll see though, they usually get back to me within a few hours.

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