HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[Spurshot]

Time delay relay.

[Creeper]

Ok thanks. Are there any that could plug into the morimoto elite harness from TRS? Sorry to sound like a noob.

[oromero830]

This is a follow-up to my previous post. I figured out that the flat pins can connect into the stock low beam adapter and I put some electrical tape around them on the passenger side. I also figured out that I don't need the red/black wire oem adapter on the driver side grommet so I removed it. The passenger side stock low beam adapter is plugged into the output that comes from the relay harness, and it has a capacitor link and a ground.

 

I got everything all wired up and I had some buzzing coming from the ballast that's connected to the driver side bulb. I made sure that my negative ground is grounded to bare metal as was suggested in previous posts. I removed the black paint from the washer, screw, and 45 degree brace. I swapped the ballasts and it was still buzzing. At first the buzzing is loud and it gets quieter but not completely as the bulbs warm up. I read Wendysorbust's post 1748 about his relay being fried. I decided to check that to make sure even though it's a brand new kit. Everything looked normal. When I plugged both relays back in, both ballasts are now buzzing. I've tried unplugging and plugging the relays several times and the blasts are still buzzing. I've double checked all connections. I'm going to call TRS tomorrow. Does anyone have any other ideas?

 

I just talked to TRS. They said that what I am more than likely hearing is a humming sound coming from the ballasts and not a buzzing sound. They said that if it was a buzzing sound it would be the relays, and it would be constant and loud. The noise I am hearing starts off high and gets lower as the bulbs warm up, and its coming from the actual ballasts, and not the relays. I didn't realize the humming sound was common, but they said that 90% of ballasts make this humming sound, and OEM ballasts are even louder. I am going to take a video when I get home and send that to them. Does everyone else's ballasts make this humming sound?

[LSXTC]

I got the DDM Ultra Canbus kit. In the reading that I have done I have come to the conclusion that using a relay harness is uncessary on this kit due to the ballast design changes requiring less current draw/spike on startup. I've got a question regarding the necessity of a relay harness when installing the higher quality DDM kit.

 

Is a harness really necessary for every kit out there? Should I be OK to install the ultra canbus kit without a relay harness?

 

The Canbus kit is a 250 MHz kit, so this might reduce the need to use capacitors. I purchased some anyway as a precaution in case I have glitches during the initial install, where I do not plan to use them.

 

 

Is my logic very flawed here? Should I just install with a relay harness and capacitors, or should I experiment the way I intend to and see if it turns out well without the additional parts/pieces?

[jetfixer737]

 

I just talked to TRS. They said that what I am more than likely hearing is a humming sound coming from the ballasts and not a buzzing sound. They said that if it was a buzzing sound it would be the relays, and it would be constant and loud. The noise I am hearing starts off high and gets lower as the bulbs warm up, and its coming from the actual ballasts, and not the relays. I didn't realize the humming sound was common, but they said that 90% of ballasts make this humming sound, and OEM ballasts are even louder. I am going to take a video when I get home and send that to them. Does everyone else's ballasts make this humming sound?

 

My TRS kit is about 3 weeks old and my ballasts hum too. It IS louder at first, then fades as the bulbs warm up. Bear in mind that these things initially pump something like 20,000+ volts to the bulbs to get the initial arc, then fall to a steady 85 volts or so in continuous operation, so it seems logical they'd be noisier at first, then quiet down.

[Charles Dusek]

Is there a DIY for headlight removal of the 2015 Silverado 2500HD High Country Headlamps? I just put H11 Hids in the factory projectors and it's Flick City here on Houston's bumpy roads. I am hoping that putting the FX-R projectors in will help. If my headlights are still going to flicker even with FX-R then I will just lave them because the light output is high enough from the 6000k bulbs on my 55w ballasts.

 

Also, I have 55w ballasts connected to the H11 bulbs. Would I have to change any of the connectors from the ballast to go with the D2S bulbs that fit the FX-Rs? From previous posts it looks like the Projectors should be an easy swap once I get the Headlights off.

[oromero830]

 

My TRS kit is about 3 weeks old and my ballasts hum too. It IS louder at first, then fades as the bulbs warm up. Bear in mind that these things initially pump something like 20,000+ volts to the bulbs to get the initial arc, then fall to a steady 85 volts or so in continuous operation, so it seems logical they'd be noisier at first, then quiet down.

 

Thanks for sharing that. I didn't know to expect that but it makes sense, and TRS confirmed that it's "normal". Do you have any issues with your DRLs turning on or any buzzing when you have the lighting dial set to auto?

 

I would say it's the capacitor due to the buzzing noise. I just finished my retro on my 2015 sierra and my Drl's aren't working in park so I'm having an issue also. They work when I have my headlights on and when I turn my fogs on. Might be due to my capacitor also but I'm not sure. Last time my capacitor wasn't working my lights wouldn't come on at all.

 

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Have you figured out what's wrong with your kit? Do you have any buzzing? I noticed that my daytime running lights wont kick on automatically now, and I hear a buzzing coming from the engine compartment. When I put the truck into park, the buzzing stops,but i can hear the buzzing sound while I am driving and my DRLs are not on. If I turn the lighting dial from auto to On or Off and then back to Auto, the buzzing stops. I took a video of the buzzing sound from inside the cab but I can only record the noise while I am holding brake. When I can get someone to help me I am going to have someone else sit in the cab and hold the brake when I hear the noise while I open the hood and try to record the noise. This buzzing is very noticable, the humming of the ballasts was much lower and it fades as the bulbs warm up and I can't hear that humming while the engine is running. I've sent both videos to TRS.

[Dangerdick]

The buzzing is the relay latching and unlatching as fast as that poor thing can oscillate. Means you're feeding it pulse signal (DLR) and you need that cap in place

[jetfixer737]

 

Thanks for sharing that. I didn't know to expect that but it makes sense, and TRS confirmed that it's "normal". Do you have any issues with your DRLs turning on or any buzzing when you have the lighting dial set to auto?

 

 

 

I had a capacitor link problem at first, which required TRS to send me a new one, but since then everything has been working the same as before all the upgrades. BTW, I always run the headlight knob in "auto" with no issues.

[440hsp]

Oromero830, I'm offshore for 2 to 3 more weeks so I haven't got to the bottom of my issue. My lights worked beautifully at night on my way to work and I didn't hear any buzzing either like with my previous kit. I'll get to the bottom of it when I get a chance.

 

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[clayc213]

Is the 55w morimoto kit significantly brighter than the 35w kit? Is it worth risking possible melting of the sierra projector housing?

[Dangerdick]

Yea its worth it

[440hsp]

Is the 55w morimoto kit significantly brighter than the 35w kit? Is it worth risking possible melting of the sierra projector housing?

That's what I have and I have run both.

 

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[Maine-iac]

Yea its worth it

if I had a 35w kit, could I just swap out ballasts to switch to a 55w kit? Or what does it entail.

[Dangerdick]

Yea just swap the ballasts.