HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[RobZ71LM7]

wow... just like a previous postyer my head hurts from reading about 30 pages today on this...

 

So i have a 14 silverado with projectors.. yes they are terrible.. i want to install the fxr 3.0 projectors and would like to do the least amount of drilling possible.

 

i reached out to TRS and this is the kit they recommended:

 

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/bi-xenon-fx-r-stage-iii-kit.html

FX-R 3.0 Bi-xenon projectors (LHD)

Morimoto Ballasts

Morimoto Bulbs

H11 Relay Harness( you will also need the capacitor link here: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/capacitor-relay-harness-link.html#.Vei6qn_BzRY)

Shrouds(Not needed)

 

a couple questions though..

 

1. is this kit only for the low beams? would i need a separate kit for high beams?

 

2. would the headlight extended cap that a member created be needed so i wont have to cut anything?

 

3. do I/would I need anything else for this upgrade? my goal is to have HID high and low beams and fogs - Which i see the HID Extra 5202 HID fog kit will work pretty good.

 

sorry for all the questions im just new to HID and trying to figure it all out

 

 

The kit will replace your low-beam with a Bixenon FX-R projector. The projector has high beam function built in with two wires which you will tap into your factory high beam. When triggered by the high beams the shutter is pulled down creating a high beam pattern.

 

You will also need to buy these for the cleanest split:

 

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/high-beam-splitters.html#.VglgiNJViHo

 

I don't think the bulb mounted D2S ignitors will fit under the caps a member created here. You may want amp ignitors for those caps to fit. I have regular D2S ignitors which mount directly behind the bulb on the socket.

 

I did the above with the splitter and I now have 4 high beams-FX-R's with factory halogen high beams is insanely bright.

[RobZ71LM7]

Amp Ignitor & Amp to D2S Adapter:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/ballasts/morimoto-xb35-amp-hid-xenon-ballasts.html#.Vglic9JViHo

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/amp-d2s-ballast-adapter-90-degree.html#.Vgli6tJViHo

 

D2S Ignitor:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/ballasts/morimoto-xb35-d2s-hid-xenon-ballasts.html#.VgliQ9JViHo

 

Notice the amount of space behind the bulb. I doubt the shapeways cap can accommodate a D2S ignitor, but can probably accomodate the former. But I could be wrong. I went with the conventional D2S setup for the ability to run OEM ballasts.

[DAP56]

You still have to cut the extended cap. The difference is that you can still get the dust cover on. Some members have been getting by just fine drilling a hole in the stock cap, they must be using low profile connectors to the D2S bulbs... Either way, a hole must be drilled to let the wires pass through.

 

 

rdtpp1991 in post #1998 above is the latest to drill a hole in his stock dust caps...

Edited September 28, 2015 by DAP56

[EPIC CAJUN]

Where is everyone hooking up their ground for the Morimoto Sierra kit? I have this kit and have moved my ground a couple times due to the drivers side light not turning on. Currently its on the fender brace. Yes I have sanded the paint away to get to bare metal. This kithas been on my truck for a year now and the last 4 months Ive been having fits keeping the drivers side working. When I call TRS they keep telling me to start with the ground and go from there. I have flip flopped every part of this kit at one time or another and it will work for a couple weeks then the drivers side will go out. Its like a broken record with this kit and TRS. My next step is to take the kit out and trash it.

 

Any info would be greatly appreciated

[spaceghost2000]

installed the TRS Sierra Spec kit, Morimoto 35w, 5500k bulbs. Much better than stock. Tried to take pictures before/after but my iphone actually takes pretty good pictures at night and they both end up looking similar...but there's a very big difference.

I grounded on the passenger side, paint sanded down to bare metal and a large fender washer used...

 

And FYI to you Sierra owners, the bulbs should be inserted with the connectors/wiring coming off @ 6 o'clock position (straight down).

 

 

 

 

 

[EPIC CAJUN]

I got mine on the bolt just above yours in that pick. I will have to try this location tonight and see if it will come back on.

 

This has been a huge pain in the ass

[spaceghost2000]

I got mine on the bolt just above yours in that pick. I will have to try this location tonight and see if it will come back on.

 

This has been a huge pain in the ass

There's 2 pieces of steel spot welded there, so it's pretty thick. I used a sheet metal self tapping screw..

 

Depending on when you bought your harness, there looks like there is 2 or 3 different grounding wires. I just recently purchased the harness and there were only 2 ground wires. The first picture is the main one...the other one (the capacitor harness) was grounded the same way to the frame next to the relays (on top under the fender washer). This is under the huge plastic shroud covering the radiator, next to the passenger side headlight...

 

Edited September 29, 2015 by Spaceghost2000

[STL_SSS]

ok I'm new to the site but not new to the mod game i used to have a silverado ss and now i have a 14 chevy silverado lt and i am having some issues with the Hids i bought and the highs work but the lows do not work, I'm getting frustrated. I bought the DDM HIDS. whats a complete kit that i can buy and just plug and play

[5829BMG]

Guys, buy the $100 each custom made deeper caps to allow your HID system to be as OEM as possible. This is the route I plan to take. I'm not cutting anything. I'm not doing the retrofit until I find another set of LTZ headlights to mod. I want to have a stock set for the next 3 years/36K miles just in case... Links to the caps are in the huge thread somewhere. Expensive but worth it.

Confused on the Sierra and the TRS spec kit do you still have dust cap issues??

[Mike1220]

Confused on the Sierra and the TRS spec kit do you still have dust cap issues??

 

 

 

you'll have to drill a hole in your dustcap for pretty much and HID kit for these trucks cause you'll need a wire harness

[EPIC CAJUN]

Think I figured out my issue last night. I have a bad relay. Im only getting one light to work and when I switch the relay around the other side woks.

[Herd Thinners]

Question. It may have been covered but I missed it.

2015 Sierra. Halogen projectors with LED. I don't want to touch my stock lights in case one day I sell it. I have two options. 1.buy eagle eye or another aftermarket as the sell my truck light and lights until I complete my retro or 2. Buy the expensive OEM lights.

 

My problem and questions are : if I buy the OEM they are HID which means I need different wiring in my truck to install them being I have halogen but if I retro the HID does the connections into the sierra's halogen wiring become workable or am I screwed because the assemble is HID not halogen Basically does retro fitting only use the assembly shell.

 

Help lol.

[rdtpp1991]

Someone posted a while back that they had issues with their HIDs turning off on long road trips. I drove 5hr trip up to Oklahoma Monday morning and back Monday night and didn't have any issues at all with TRS morimoto kit 35w w/ 4500k.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[spaceghost2000]

Confused on the Sierra and the TRS spec kit do you still have dust cap issues??

What you quoted in your post was regarding the caps for the Chevy lights, which are different than the GMC. The GMC caps are like a dome, you just need to do the required drilling for the wiring grommet for the kit.

[spaceghost2000]

My problem and questions are : if I buy the OEM they are HID which means I need different wiring in my truck to install them being I have halogen but if I retro the HID does the connections into the sierra's halogen wiring become workable or am I screwed because the assemble is HID not halogen Basically does retro fitting only use the assembly shell.

Help lol.

The factory wiring remains in place as it enters the light from a different location than the back of the cap where you will need to drill into for the new harness wiring. Right now I could pull the HID bulb out and use the old halogen bulbs (using stock wiring). I would imagine if you sold or leased the truck you would remove the kit and wiring, and seal up the hole you drilled in the cap...or try and buy a new cap (not sure they are sold separately)...

 

If you are doing a real retro I believe that would entail opening the headlight to put in better projectors..then it's really up to you on how you complete your wiring..meaning you could try and use the factory wiring for the retro which would deviate from what us "bulb swappers" are doing. But I would imagine if you did a real retro you would still need the HID ballasts and wiring harness as the stock system isn't set up for that type of bulb. So I can't really answer this definitely as it really depends on what you do with the light and whether you use the Sierra Spec wiring harness, etc. I really don't know all that much about it as this was my first bulb swap.