Jump to content

Sign in to follow this  
BruceW

2007 NBS Sierra Denali Codes P2715 and P0700, occasionally revs high

Recommended Posts

My truck has 123K miles on it. The transmission is a 6 speed 6L80. About a month ago I was towing a 23' 8'6" beam, 5000 pound ski boat about 300 miles. The transmission temp maxed out around 193. About 100 miles before our destination the check engine light came on. It was late and we were going through small towns so I did not have a chance to check the code. I was in tow haul mode and never noticed any issue. The next day the CEL was gone.

 

Yesterday I was driving around unloaded and had the truck fail to shift and rev up to 3K+ rpm. At that time I noticed that the CEL was back. I was half a mile from home. I do not believe that it shifted on the way home, it seemed to be locked in gear.

 

Once home I stopped and restarted the engine. After restarting the CEL remained but the transmission seemed to function normally. Later I drove 15 miles into town to have the code read. The codes were P2715 and P0700. I did not ask to have the codes cleared.

 

I have had an issue with the 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd shift where it seems to be a delayed shift with some revving between for years. This seems to happen when I am not accelerating hard or loaded.

 

Today I drove about a 25 mile loop to talk to a transmission guy I know and take the kids for a snack. On the way I shifted manually up and down through the gears. It shifted smoothly. On a short divided highway section I floored it to accelerate. It downshifted twice. The first was smooth and good. It seemed to have some free revving with the second, although I may just be overly critical about this.

 

The transmission fluid was changed approximately 10K to 15K miles ago.

 

I am hoping that others can share their experience with and solutions for similar issues with this transmission. What do you guys suggest?

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited by BruceW

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Off the top of my head, the p0700 is a TCM code, meaning there is something wrong with the TCM. Sounds like something you may need to go to the dealer for.

 

Sent from a jelly bean.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

700 is sent from the trans control module(TCM) to the ECM that there is a code in the TCM ,,,,,you have to now scan the TCM for the real code

 

the other code is engine ,

 

the first thing to do is clear all codes in both modules and drive the truck to verify a hard fault and then re scan and then have the code printed out and follow the diag tree

 

or

 

 

take it in

Edited by govtech4
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

P0700 is a request from the transmission to turn on the CEL.

 

P2715 is Pressure Control Solenoid "D" (4) Stuck On.

 

I talked with a mechanic today. He said that it sounded like something had broken loose after the fluid change and must have gotten into solenoid 4 or the associated valve.

 

I went out for a drive today and found that the CEL had cleared itself. He said they will do that after X successful trips without the problem reoccurring.

 

I decided to test it a little to see how the transmission was performing. I started off with a leisurely drive for about 10 miles of twisty and hilly road. It performed fine so I found an abandoned stretch of road and did about 20, 0 to 80 runs. I got the transmission temp up to 205 which is higher than I have ever seen trailering. It did not miss a shift. I often used manual shifting and tow haul mode.

 

What do you guys thing? Should I pursue this further?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tough call. I'd suspect whatever gunk got wedged in the valve is now clear, so all is well again. I'd probably just drive it and forget about it.

 

If it's a faulty #4 solenoid, then it would show up again the same way, then you could go further into it. At least it's 4th gear not 2nd. :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Kenneth Haines
      Question to all new truck buyers who bought a 2018 Chevy Colorado, you having any transmission issues, like slipping between 2nd and 3rd gear on the automatic floor shiftier or problems with the + and - buttons ?
    • By Hexa Fox
      Hey guys I am planning to change the transmission fluid on my 2007 Silverado (New Body) 4.8 4x4 here soon. My muffler recently wore a hole into it and rusted out a piece of the exhaust. Therefore, I am planning on replacing my entire system with this one from Amazon.
      https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00503PU70/?coliid=I365UW575WJD1C&colid=1GQFQXGWZEWEY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
       
      Anyway I have done some research and it looks like the exhaust system prevents the transmission pan from being dropped completely. For this reason, I would like to change my transmission fluid and filter while I am changing out the exhaust. It seems like it is going to save me a world of trouble. Also I am coming up on 95,000 miles and almost positive it has never been changed before. 
       
      However, there are a lot of opinions on both the right way of doing this and the wrong way. I see a lot of people on YouTube removing the metal line from the front of the transmission radiator and letting the old fluid drain out that way while adding in new fluid. Then they stop when they see new fluid being pulled into the container and replace the filter then go on with life. I have heard other people say that this is gambling with your transmission and should not be done. Basically any advice and opinions would be greatly appreciated. 
       
      I also heard to not get sucked into "fancy labels" when it comes to new fluid either. My local guy said you want to replace the fluid with exactly the same thing that is in there right now as it was not designed for anything else. I just looked in the manual and it says that it is DEXRON VI so probably going to go with this from Amazon.
      https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-9395-Dexron-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B01EKMGG92/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526257467&sr=8-2&keywords=dexron+vi+automatic+transmission+fluid
       
      Let me know if you guys need anymore information. Any advice and direction you guys can give would be awesome. 
    • By Getemwet
      First post here but wanted everyone to know before they too get screwed by their power train warranty. I have A 2015 gmc 1500 Denali 6.2 and have had transmission problems after about 10000 miles or so . I have taken it in and asked to have the transmission looked at with nothing but “can’t find a problem “ from service. I installed a k and n dry synthetic intake to my truck after about 15,000 miles(I have about 50k now).  Took my truck in about 7months ago due to the transmission hitting hard throughout gears. When i take the car out of park into reverse there is a hard knock and a decent jolt. Sometimes when driving it and getting onto a freeway the gas pedal does not work then kicks in after a few seconds (pretty scary ). Another issue is if I give it gas in 4th or 5th it revs high then I feel like I and being rear ended and then the truck moves. This is crazy that this is happening. The dealership did a reprogramming of the transmission and 7 months I take it back they pull it apart and find pieces of the clutch in the bottom of the transmission pan. They call me today and tell me that the aftermarket CAI is the cause of the problem. They say the mass air flow censor is covered in oil from the air filters oil? My air filter is a dry synthetic filter just wash with water and air dry so I call their bullshit. They then call me back and say they looked into the filter I own and it is a dry filter and there was no oil on it. Wow wtf. They bullshit their way out of everything. Just wanted people to know when they have this problem be one step ahead of them and keep your stock air intake . It is absolutely absurd to say my clutch is coming apart in my transmission because of a aftermarket air intake. They are also not honoring the warranty and want me to pay $4480 for a new trans. This will probably be my last gm car ever.
       
    • By Luistt
      Alright so I’m thinking of doing a 2/4 drop on my 14 Silverado got a quick question. Will I have to mess with the driveshaft at all I don’t want the driveline to go in to the transmission. Will I have any problems. 
       
    • By ObscureGlock
      Hey all! 
       
      My truck maxes out at 98 MPH, but when I bought my truck, it had 22” Denali wheels. I now have the same wheels but with new tires, Hankook Ventus ST RH06, that are "V" rated.
       
      My question is, why is there a speed limiter? Besides the fact that it’s a truck, what mechanical points are we putting into the spotlight that result in a speed limiter? I live in Florida, and our highways are usually long straightaways with all traffic usually on the right side. When I’m passing, I get cut off at 98 MPH.... I don’t want that. I want to remove my limiter, but obviously not do ridiculous speeds... most I’d ever go is 115 STRETCHING it, in certain situations where it’s safer for me to pass at a speed that high. The reason I wan the limiter removed/increased is because I sometimes like to go to our local track day where we test our vehicle's times on an 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile, and as mentioned above, passing on non-busy highways later into the evening when there isn’t much traffic. I've tried searching through the forums here but everything is redundant, I never really got to find an answer. I wanted to ask why the speed limiter is in place, outside of tire speed rating. I’ve been hearing about it involving the driveshaft, but they never really have any solid answers and it leaves me confused... how can a driveshaft be damaged/exploded with a 10-20 mph increase, especially when these driveshafts are made to handle towing heavy hauls and off roading? Mind you, these speeds aren’t "long distance” speeds... what I mean is I’m not going to be spending my whole time on the highway or track doing 115.
       
      And before any of you keyboard warriors think about replying, I do not care to hear your opinion on "speeding". I’m an experienced driver. I don’t mean to sound cocky, I just want to point it out that I’m looking for an explanation behind the speed limiter varying between a year or two...
       
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    196,626
    Total Topics
    2,080,408
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    164,735
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TomBrady80
    Newest Member
    TomBrady80
    Joined
  • Who's Online   99 Members, 0 Anonymous, 751 Guests (See full list)

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.