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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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never_rested_24-7 Enthusiast

never_rested_24-7

Posted
Posted

I too am wondering what the best combination (level and largest tires possible with minor to no rub) for the stock black 22" wheels on the rally editions. Thanks!

I'm planning on going with the Bilstein 5100 adjustable struts with a nitto terra grappler g2 285/50/22

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

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bfel816 Enthusiast

bfel816

Posted
Posted

 

I have contacs at my local NTB, after work I'm going to stop by and see what they say, they have a 285/70 17 tire in stock, he wants to look and see if it will fit for me...

I feel like you won't have any trouble I just put 285/70/17 tires on mine yesterday with a 2" level and have plenty of room the 1.5" should be more then enough.
nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

For anyone interested in 5100's they do compress your coil more and it will cause premature wear of your coils. I had them on my old truck and prior to selling it I put new coils on. My coils I had been using with 5100's were over an inch shorter than the new coils. This is why down the road I will most likely go with rancho quick lifts and a block in the rear.

  • Like 1
GerryLP Enthusiast

GerryLP

Posted
Posted

Camber definitely gets affected you can visually see it with spacer levels. The problem is that "spec" is a wide range and as long as it shows green on the computer they won't touch it.

Edit. I see your camber is negative that's odd I would have assumed positive.

Yeah,

 

Very minimally to red flag it. I doubt every truck can be set to the same exact parameters. Even if set perfectly, I doubt we could tell as drivers. Lol

 

The good thing is that it is done!

Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted

I find that the 2" level makes the truck look nose high even the the wheel wells measure to be level. 1.5" I think will be perfect, it will have the same rake as a 2.5" level that comes with a block for the rear.

 

I have a Zone 2" level sitting in the box here. Debating installing it and swapping out the rear block for a 2" block.

 

I am also tempted to say eff it and return the Zone 2" and not touch anything at all.

  • Like 1
Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

 

I have a Zone 2" level sitting in the box here. Debating installing it and swapping out the rear block for a 2" block.

 

I am also tempted to say eff it and return the Zone 2" and not touch anything at all.

 

 

My vote goes to installing it. These trucks look so much better leveled IMO

5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted

For anyone interested in 5100's they do compress your coil more and it will cause premature wear of your coils. I had them on my old truck and prior to selling it I put new coils on. My coils I had been using with 5100's were over an inch shorter than the new coils. This is why down the road I will most likely go with rancho quick lifts and a block in the rear.

 

The rancho quicklifts work the exact same way, the spring perch is just not adjustable. Did you actually measure your oem coils before and after bilstein use to see if they had lost some spring rate or gotten smaller?

 

post-59665-1279206011.jpg

USCGRetiredJosh Enthusiast

USCGRetiredJosh

Posted
Posted

I have a 1.5" leveling kit on order and would like to know if it's possible to install it without having to remove everything. The leveling block goes on the 2 bolts on the bottom of the strut.

 

Thanks for the help

txchevy4ever Enthusiast

txchevy4ever

Posted
Posted

I have a 1.5" leveling kit on order and would like to know if it's possible to install it without having to remove everything. The leveling block goes on the 2 bolts on the bottom of the strut.

 

Thanks for the help

You'll definitely have to loosen the sway bar, the ball joint and the top of the strut, you might have to loosen the steering linkage.

K2jer Enthusiast

K2jer

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have a 1.5" leveling kit on order and would like to know if it's possible to install it without having to remove everything. The leveling block goes on the 2 bolts on the bottom of the strut.

 

Thanks for the help

All you have to do is loosen the sway bar bolts. You will be able to pry the control arm down enough. I did my RCX 2" this week and it was pretty easy. No need to touch ball joint, tie rod or upper strut bolts. If you undo both sides before you attempt to install the blocks that will help as the sway bar is connecting both lower control arms.

 

 

Love the look of your truck BTW. They have to be the best factory wheels GM has ever come up with.

Edited by K2jer
Buckeye920 Enthusiast

Buckeye920

Posted
Posted

So I installed my MotoFab 1.5 level kit, now to see of I can fit 285/70 17 tires on factory wheels under there...

 

I've noticed a noise coming from my CV joints. At full lock, going pretty slow is sounds like a rubbing/clicking sound. It's very light/faint. Had the GF get in it and turn the wheel and move the truck forward and to the rear, turned at full lock both ways and the sound comes from the CV joints. Not sure of its normal, it's been to cold to have the windows down to hear anything until recently.

Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted

 

 

My vote goes to installing it. These trucks look so much better leveled IMO

 

I think that's my problem, I don't want to level it, I'd just want to lift it 2-3 inches with a full on kit which will cost $$$.

 

Then after I think about it I realize I don't want to spend that kind of money and I'm back to just leaving it stock lol.

 

 

Ah well. I'll keep researching.

txchevy4ever Enthusiast

txchevy4ever

Posted
Posted

All you have to do is loosen the sway bar bolts. You will be able to pry the control arm down enough. I did my RCX 2" this week and it was pretty easy. No need to touch ball joint, tie rod or upper strut bolts. If you undo both sides before you attempt to install the blocks that will help as the sway bar is connecting both lower control arms.

 

 

Love the look of your truck BTW. They have to be the best factory wheels GM has ever come up with.

Didn't work for me on my 2015 z71.

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