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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Matt_UKTX Enthusiast

Matt_UKTX

Posted
Posted

Will a rough County 2.5 leveling kit allow for a 275 70 18 tire without rubbing?

 

Yes, that's a 33" tire. Should fit without an issue. However, it will throw off your speedometer by about 2mph.

asalinasz39 Enthusiast

asalinasz39

Posted
Posted

Yessir ill shoot you some pictures. I am ordering them today from Amazon.

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I just got these today 2" rear blocks. I'll post pics when on.

 

 

 

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  • Like 1
Matt_UKTX Enthusiast

Matt_UKTX

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here are some pics of my new ride, just purchased before new year...

 

2017 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali Ultimate 6.2L 4x4

 

Mods:

- RC 2" front leveling kit

- AMP Research Power Steps

- GM 4x4 decals added to front fenders (deleted by default on the Denali)

- 35% Window Tint on front windows

- Chrome tailgate lever

- Interior piping added to door panels (75 cent mod)

 

IMG 0554

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IMG 0559

IMG 0560

IMG 0561

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IMG 0564

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IMG 0566

Edited by Matt_UKTX
  • Like 2
asalinasz39 Enthusiast

asalinasz39

Posted
Posted

So suspension had settled in after 1.5" rear blocks and i was still not content at only 1/2" rake. I upgraded this morning to the 2" rear blocks posted above and now have a 1" rake plus these are steel and the tampered style thats slightly shorter on the front. I am really happy with the results as I should no longer notice a squatting appearance when fuel tank is full. Also while removing the tire i broke the lug nut lock on one of the wheels as i had tighten it too much previously. Lesson learned. Jb weld did the trick to remove it and now need to order a new lug nut key.67a6f9b9a243661fb595fa3f01e3abee.jpgaf32cb0f1625a3762f9e32f8fb42b446.jpg0c001e7526777cbc7c100daf3a206ac5.jpgdd71641f87450ea9a038351ce8082f9f.jpg

 

 

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  • Like 3
LTZ16 Enthusiast

LTZ16

Posted
Posted

Did you have to remove he wheels to put the blocks in? My blocks should be here Friday, so there going in next weekend ( single digit temps in Michigan ) . Truck looks great, I'm really considering removing the side steps, looks a lot cleaner with out them, Are they a pain to remove???

asalinasz39 Enthusiast

asalinasz39

Posted
Posted (edited)

Did you have to remove he wheels to put the blocks in? My blocks should be here Friday, so there going in next weekend ( single digit temps in Michigan ) . Truck looks great, I'm really considering removing the side steps, looks a lot cleaner with out them, Are they a pain to remove???

Yes i worked on one side at a time. Jacked up from side and placed on jack stand. Then moved my jack to the center of differential and jack up diff to remove wheel. Unbolted strut from bottom, then u bolts and lower jack slowly. Swapped in the new block and jack back up. Push the differential to align holes while lift jack and bamm all set. Oh and my truck already came without side steps but i do want to install some nfabs because Iam afraid the leather will start to tear and wife and I are planning on another addition to the family so they will be needed.

 

 

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Edited by asalinasz39
  • Like 3
Linecapt Enthusiast

Linecapt

Posted
Posted

Here's a before and after of a 2.5" RC front & 2" rear block on my '16 Sierra with factory 20's.

post-155487-0-01760100-1483924400.jpg

post-155487-0-47068700-1483924426.jpg

 

Below is a pic of my suspension and the angle of my front drive shaft at the wheel. Love the look of the raised truck, but the ride, its another question. I read back thru the last 20 pages of this specific forum, and only found one comment about the ride. Mine feels as if there is rolling resistance, as if something is holding it back. Yes, in neutral it rolls as it should but even then or under power, still feels like resistance. It's only been 2 weeks since I completed the DIY project. Any thoughts anyone? Just searching the web, a ricer forum thought someones E-brake cable might be pulling taught. Any help?

 

post-155487-0-84897400-1483924333.jpg

post-155487-0-84897400-1483924333.jpg

post-155487-0-01760100-1483924400.jpg

post-155487-0-47068700-1483924426.jpg

post-155487-0-84897400-1483924333.jpg

post-155487-0-01760100-1483924400.jpg

post-155487-0-47068700-1483924426.jpg

post-155487-0-84897400-1483924333.jpg

post-155487-0-01760100-1483924400.jpg

post-155487-0-47068700-1483924426.jpg

  • Like 1
huntr1117 Enthusiast

huntr1117

Posted
Posted

Yes i worked on one side at a time. Jacked up from side and placed on jack stand. Then moved my jack to the center of differential and jack up diff to remove wheel. Unbolted strut from bottom, then u bolts and lower jack slowly. Swapped in the new block and jack back up. Push the differential to align holes while lift jack and bamm all set. Oh and my truck already came without side steps but i do want to install some nfabs because Iam afraid the leather will start to tear and wife and I are planning on another addition to the family so they will be needed.

 

 

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You don't have to take off the wheels. Here's a post I made about replacing the blocks a while ago...

 

You can just jack up rear leaf spring. I installed my rear blocks a couple of weeks ago and it about 20 mins. ON A LEVEL SURFACE. Place a 4x4 block on your jack so you have plenty of lift. Position the block/jack on the front side of the leaf spring directly in front of the factory rear blocks. Don't put pressure on the jack yet. Take off the u bolts. Now jack up the spring enough to remove the factory block and install the new one. Slowly lower the jack. You should notice the rear slightly roll into place. This is why you need a level surface. It helps to have someone else there to watch and make sure everything lines up while you lower the jack. Once it's lowered all the way reinstall the u bolts. Do one side at a time. It's very easy.

 

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  • Like 1
LTZ16 Enthusiast

LTZ16

Posted
Posted

Thanks, I was planning on jacking up the truck from the rear diff, and placing the frame on jack stands, then removing lower shock bolt, and four nuts that hold each U bolt ( each side ) then lower the rear diff to remove and reinstall new block, and U bolts.. But I will give your idea a try, just have to picture what your saying in my head..LOL

LTZ16 Enthusiast

LTZ16

Posted
Posted

Yes i worked on one side at a time. Jacked up from side and placed on jack stand. Then moved my jack to the center of differential and jack up diff to remove wheel. Unbolted strut from bottom, then u bolts and lower jack slowly. Swapped in the new block and jack back up. Push the differential to align holes while lift jack and bamm all set. Oh and my truck already came without side steps but i do want to install some nfabs because Iam afraid the leather will start to tear and wife and I are planning on another addition to the family so they will be needed.

 

 

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BTW, congrats on the new baby

Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted

My neighbor said he just finished his blocks.. put jacks under frame. Loosened the bolts but left them with a few threads.... deflated his tires until there was enough room to work with. Removed the one side and exchanged the bolts and block... then did the other side. Reinflated enough to get it all back in place. Tightened--->full inflated---> retorqued. He says he was done in 40 minutes with air tools. I'm pretty sure tool was right. But I'm doing mine the first day it's above 60*.

 

 

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  • Like 1
Matt_UKTX Enthusiast

Matt_UKTX

Posted
Posted

Looks nice Matt. Are your Bridgestones the OEM tires (275/55/20?).

 

Thanks Rolling Thunder... I get a lot of compliments on the truck. Very happy overall. I came from a BMW X5, and this actually drives and rides better (for me). I don't think I will ever go back to a car/SUV.

 

Anyway, to answer your question, these are the stock AT tires on the 22-inch wheels. I believe they are 285/45/R22. They ride very nice, look aggressive and are relatively quiet.

Parker93 Enthusiast

Parker93

Posted
Posted

So suspension had settled in after 1.5" rear blocks and i was still not content at only 1/2" rake. I upgraded this morning to the 2" rear blocks posted above and now have a 1" rake plus these are steel and the tampered style thats slightly shorter on the front. I am really happy with the results as I should no longer notice a squatting appearance when fuel tank is full. Also while removing the tire i broke the lug nut lock on one of the wheels as i had tighten it too much previously. Lesson learned. Jb weld did the trick to remove it and now need to order a new lug nut key.67a6f9b9a243661fb595fa3f01e3abee.jpgaf32cb0f1625a3762f9e32f8fb42b446.jpg0c001e7526777cbc7c100daf3a206ac5.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170108/dd71641f87450ea9a038351ce8082f9f.jpg[/img

 

Looks nice! Looks like the 2" blocks will be perfect!

 

 

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  • Like 1

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