Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I was in the same dilemma not too long ago. I personally preferred aesthetic appearances over functionality (enjoying my youth at the expense of my wallet). The 275/65 looks nice from the side but I felt like the front/back view was more important because it's rare that somebody only sees the side directly without being at an angle of some sort. I wanted my truck to have a variety of good angles, as opposed to just two good sides.

 

Then when looking around at 305/55 tires, I came across the Nitto XL tires. They were only ~50 lbs of unsprung weight as opposed to the 58-62 lbs of most LT 305/55 tires. I don't regularly run trails or anything so I didn't feel the excess protection was necessary. Even the 275/65 BFG KO2 weighs ~57 I think. I lost some aerodynamics, and fuel economy, but not as much as if I'd have gone with an LT tire.

 

The sidewall of the KO2's are sexy, but the weight was a slight turn off. The mileage warranty was a plus for me in choosing the Nitto G2s. Just sharing my reasons for my decisions.

  • Like 1
Posted

Installed a 2.5in leveling kit and took it to the dealership to have them inspect my front suspension, torque all bolts to spec and get a front end alignment. 1 1/2 weeks later a bolt snapped on the upper control arm causing the tire to cave in. Needles to say in a huge argument with the dealership now because I believe they over torqued the bolt causing it to weaken and snap. Any experiences like this?

Posted (edited)

 

I'm just curious why you stayed with 275/65's instead of going with something wider? Maybe a 305/55R20? The diameter is only slightly different (33" with the 275/65's vs. 33.2" with the 305/55's.)

 

I suppose there is more patch contact area from a 305 vs a 275, so you will get a little more drag (ie. less fuel mileage) but I personally just think that the wider tires look so much better on a lifted/leveled truck.

 

From everything I've read it seems like the 305/55R20 will fit on a truck with at least a 2" level. There is a possibility for a very minor rub at full lock, but if it does it would be minor. Some people have stated they had a 2" level with zero rub on the 305's.

 

I just picked-up a 2017 GMC Sierra and put a 2.5" Motofab level kit on it, and am planning on putting 305/55R20 K02's on it in the next week or two. I was just curious if there was a fit issue that prevented you from going wider, or if it was just cost and fuel mileage.

 

Your truck looks great though! I've always like BFG's for all around tires. Not too noisey on the highway and great off-road in the woods.

Keep in mind tires vary in sizes by brand and AT vs MT. Generally a 305 55 in all terrain type will me smaller but its best to look for tire specs on their respective site. My 33x12.5 Federal mt measure 32.8x12.3" and would rub on the UCA on reverse and full lock turns. 1/4" wheels spacers fixed that

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by asalinasz39
Posted (edited)

Anybody run a 20x10 -24 on a 295/55r20?

 

I've seen a few 33x12.50 on -24 with claimed little rub on this thread, but no 295/55. Looking at the ridge grappler which specs 32.7x12.17, on a rough country 2.5 level. I have the cast steel arms, they are not stamped. This would be on a 2016 sierra not that it matters particularly

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by MOhunter92
Posted

Can anyone tell me the rim size on my 2016 Sierra with 265 65r18 stock rim? 18×8 or 18×9 ? Sorry I searched and nada

Posted

Can anyone tell me the rim size on my 2016 Sierra with 265 65r18 stock rim? 18×8 or 18×9 ? Sorry I searched and nada

18x8.5 +24 offset

Posted

Just picked up my truck from the shop:

 

 

2014 Sierra 1500 - 2WD

2.5 inch front level

2 inch rear block

275/65/20 - Toyo Open Country A/T II

 

No rubbing at all. post-159584-0-03338700-1485979136_thumb.jpg

post-159584-0-03338700-1485979136_thumb.jpg

post-159584-0-03338700-1485979136_thumb.jpg

post-159584-0-03338700-1485979136_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I put a Pro Comp 2.25" leveling kit and Zone 1.5" body lift on mine. Cost less than half the price of a 4" suspension lift and rides like factory still.

 

post-168372-0-53805600-1485992556_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-76115300-1485992560_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-67283000-1485992563_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-53805600-1485992556_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-76115300-1485992560_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-67283000-1485992563_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-53805600-1485992556_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-76115300-1485992560_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-67283000-1485992563_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-53805600-1485992556_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-76115300-1485992560_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-67283000-1485992563_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted (edited)

My leveling kit just came in the mail today and I have some concerns with the Rough Country 2" Leveling Kit spacers being made out of a plastic type material. Has anyone had any issues?

Edited by Isidro____
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

My leveling kit just came in the mail today and I have some concerns with the Rough Country 2" Leveling Kit spacers being made out of a plastic type material. Has anyone had any issues?

Those polymer spacers are pretty tough. Go into the garage and hit it with your 5lb maul. Wear a cup though...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Waaazooo
Posted

My leveling kit just came in the mail today and I have some concerns with the Rough Country 2" Leveling Kit spacers being made out of a plastic type material. Has anyone had any issues?

I highly doubt they'll break (have yet to hear about one) and they won't corrode.

Posted

I put a Pro Comp 2.25" leveling kit and Zone 1.5" body lift on mine. Cost less than half the price of a 4" suspension lift and rides like factory still.

 

Looks sharp...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have ordered the car link adapter and registered for the google dev, will need to finish verification process later this evening when I get ahold of our kiddos android tablet. I will be using windows vs mac so hopefully it goes smoothly. I have zero tech background but I feel I can manage this with your write up.    Do you think it will be different for me? My truck is a 2023 GMC 1500, I have looked heavily into the AI boxes but I consistently find common complaints with lag.    Does carplay auto open now that you have it set up when you get in truck and turn it on? Or do you have to do open the app everytime? 
    • I figured you would know about it.
    • It added a cost layer to an already limited production supply. True that. 
    • Swap costs and supply/demand balance. When a barrel comes out of the ground the entire range of products are present but not all at the same percentage.    Breakdown of Refined Products The following table summarizes the approximate output from a standard 42-gallon barrel of crude oil: Product Type Gallons per Barrel Percentage of Total Gasoline 20 gallons 45% Diesel Fuel 9 gallons 21% Other Products 13 gallons 31%   Most of that diesel figure is 'straight run' or cut from the barrel. Gasoline 'cut from the barrel runs 0 to 20% at the crude. So in the crude unit there is more diesel the gasoline, usually.  The full refining experience however gives the tabled values. Ego there is half the diesel than gasoline after the 'first crack' That could be an FCC unit, or Isomax or....   Those units take heavy products and break the big ones into little ones. Those numbers are harder to get hold of but directionally it ends up the same.    Really light products are very profitable. Ethylene and Propylene to name two. Those are cracked from slightly heavier feeds like NG and Propane and Ethane. The cracker harshness determines the feed for distillation. Those feeds come from less profitable products like diesel and gasoline.    So...there is a swap cost. How much market is there TODAY and what crude am I running TODAY..... what is my process capable of always.    There is this as well. The USA uses allot more gasoline than it does diesel so in the cracker the process is tilted to gasoline production which....limits supply of diesel. OTR uses the most and it has different requirements than automotive and agricultural.  Limiting auto products.    You are correct however. It is less refined, just less of it. Allot less. 
    • Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...