Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

kylant Enthusiast

kylant

Posted
Posted
On 12/20/2018 at 11:28 AM, acinquegrana said:

Going with the readylift 1/2" hub centric wheel spacers all around with extended thread lug nuts. My local speed shop uses the same combo on their suburban with a 6" lift on 35 x 12's and they swear by it (only used to match width of front wheels). They have been in the game over 30 years so I can trust that. And as an engineer in my work we figure atleast 7 threads to be fully enganged, which is what this will provide. See pics.. Keep in mind the spacer in the pics was one he had in the back room to show me.
 

can you post a part number or link to the extended thread lug nuts??

 

I have a set of the wheel spacers. I may choose to run those. I did try them a while back, but noticed vibration about 1/2 block from the house. I have new control arms, but I may return them. I don't know about the installation of them. If I do install them, there is no going back (the spindle mounting hole needs to be chased bigger). It might be better to just run the spacers. I will probably end up selling this truck and going back to an HD

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted

I don't have a part number but the brand is Gorilla. Here is a picture of what I have. I did not buy the lugs from this site, but this is it...
3d1f44bf3553598c56efef69a3ad76d1.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

kylant Enthusiast

kylant

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, acinquegrana said:

I don't have a part number but the brand is Gorilla. Here is a picture of what I have. I did not buy the lugs from this site, but this is it...
3d1f44bf3553598c56efef69a3ad76d1.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

great, thank you.

did you do spacers on the rear as well?

  • Like 1
acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted

Yes I did. So far so good. I torqued them to 140ftlb, drove a few hundred miles, checked and good to go.

The only vibration i get is at 75-80 mph ---BUT--- it did that before (thats a whole separate issue, some of you probably know...)

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted

BORA Wheel Spacers are the BEST and SAFEST Spacers on the market!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted
BORA Wheel Spacers are the BEST and SAFEST Spacers on the market!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm sure they are just as good as the ready lift spacers. Both are hub centric and have a spigot for the wheel

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
I'm sure they are just as good as the ready lift spacers. Both are hub centric and have a spigot for the wheel

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

 

As a teenager, years back I had a (That time the best available) mechanic add wheel spacers on my Buick T Type in order to accept a set of custom wheels I just had to have. Approximately two months later, while making a hard turn and with no warning, my right wheel flew off sending me into a tall curb and narrowly missing a child on a bike. Who knows, at that time I didn’t have a choice and if I did I wouldn’t have known to look into it so I just took the word of a certified mechanic.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
kylant Enthusiast

kylant

Posted
Posted

what is the max level hight for the stamped steel arms? i hear about the ball joint issues

I have the readylift 2.25 with their control arms. to fix this rubbing maybe I will go back to stock arms??

thoughts?

jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
what is the max level hight for the stamped steel arms? i hear about the ball joint issues
I have the readylift 2.25 with their control arms. to fix this rubbing maybe I will go back to stock arms??
thoughts?


Stock arms will rub too. Get different offset wheels, or wheel spacers (do research on which ones to get, BORA is popular here).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted
 
As a teenager, years back I had a (That time the best available) mechanic add wheel spacers on my Buick T Type in order to accept a set of custom wheels I just had to have. Approximately two months later, while making a hard turn and with no warning, my right wheel flew off sending me into a tall curb and narrowly missing a child on a bike. Who knows, at that time I didn’t have a choice and if I did I wouldn’t have known to look into it so I just took the word of a certified mechanic.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is unfortunate. I trust the ready lifts as much as i would the BORA spacers. I just got a good deal on my set up.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

tfp108 New Member

tfp108

Posted
Posted

So, after hours of reading this from at least page 300 to current, I still have some questions.

 

I want to get some leveling on my 2017 Sierra.  I also want to keep the 22" factory wheels.  I called Rough Country and they told me if I run the 2.5" kit that I had to run 2" wheel spacers to use the factory wheels.  I called ReadyLift, and they told me if I get the 2.25" kit with new control arms, that I had to run a 1/2" wheel spacer to keep my factory wheels.  I can't seem to find a lot of people mentioning the need for spacers just to keep their factory wheels.


I'm leaning more toward the ReadyLift kit, and getting some 2.25" or 3" rear blocks, and I'm also going to up the tire size from 285/45R22 to something like a 285/55R22 or a 305/45R22.  I just want to know if anyone else has done something similar, what the results were and if I really need to run a wheel spacer just to keep my stock wheels.

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
So, after hours of reading this from at least page 300 to current, I still have some questions.  

I want to get some leveling on my 2017 Sierra.  I also want to keep the 22" factory wheels.  I called Rough Country and they told me if I run the 2.5" kit that I had to run 2" wheel spacers to use the factory wheels.  I called ReadyLift, and they told me if I get the 2.25" kit with new control arms, that I had to run a 1/2" wheel spacer to keep my factory wheels.  I can't seem to find a lot of people mentioning the need for spacers just to keep their factory wheels.

 

I'm leaning more toward the ReadyLift kit, and getting some 2.25" or 3" rear blocks, and I'm also going to up the tire size from 285/45R22 to something like a 285/55R22 or a 305/45R22.  I just want to know if anyone else has done something similar, what the results were and if I really need to run a wheel spacer just to keep my stock wheels.

 

 

Check out CST Performance Suspension, #1. lift will allow you to keep your stock wheels and stock track width. #2. Leveling with coilovers gives the best ride but may require new UCA’s and being leveled with coilovers will be a much more comfortable ride versus spacers. In addition, if you’re still under factory warranty it’s not a good idea to add spacers cause it’ll void your warranty on your suspension and possibly transmission if spotted by a technician. I started out with a level, bigger tires and new offset wheels and disliked the ride quality. GM looking to save money right now and voiding warranty is a great way, blaming you for any future issues.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Chevytruck16 Enthusiast

Chevytruck16

Posted
Posted
On 12/30/2016 at 5:49 PM, CHowell1991 said:

I got my 2015 leveled yesterday with 285/75r18s on stock wheels. 2.25" readylift. e9fb32455eb6e7a1ab4290d687ba3600.jpg4f06d63c867457887ff070665de117df.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do u have any problems at full lock?  My upper control arm is hitting something I don't know what. I think I need some wheel spacers to take care of that problem. I think I have a +30 range offset...........thanx

kylant Enthusiast

kylant

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, tfp108 said:

So, after hours of reading this from at least page 300 to current, I still have some questions.

 

I want to get some leveling on my 2017 Sierra.  I also want to keep the 22" factory wheels.  I called Rough Country and they told me if I run the 2.5" kit that I had to run 2" wheel spacers to use the factory wheels.  I called ReadyLift, and they told me if I get the 2.25" kit with new control arms, that I had to run a 1/2" wheel spacer to keep my factory wheels.  I can't seem to find a lot of people mentioning the need for spacers just to keep their factory wheels.


I'm leaning more toward the ReadyLift kit, and getting some 2.25" or 3" rear blocks, and I'm also going to up the tire size from 285/45R22 to something like a 285/55R22 or a 305/45R22.  I just want to know if anyone else has done something similar, what the results were and if I really need to run a wheel spacer just to keep my stock wheels.

i have the readylift with the conrol arms. i had factory 22s with the 285/45. the tire just barely rubbed the leading arm of the control arm at full lock. maybe 1/16 of an inch.

i welded steering stops from the Zone kit (come with BDS kit as well) onto the lower control arm factory steering stops and the rubbing went away. there was about 1/4" clearance after.

 

I have a set of cognito control arms that have a much sharper angle to the ball joint on the front leading arm. i believe these will eliminate all rubbing with my new wheels and tires. however, i need to make sure they will work with the magneride sensing arm before I install. Once they are installed, there is no going back. I will be doing lots of investigating today. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 81mmcat
      Higher oil pressure after DFM shut off

      By 81mmcat · Posted

      Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • Coastie05
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Welcome back!
    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...