Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

manderson7015 Enthusiast

manderson7015

Posted
Posted

So my first problem with my set-up. My driver side tire rubs UCA when turned to right at full cock. Left side fine. Ordered 1/4" spacers for now. My local shop guy told me running stock wheels with aftermarket UCA causes the rub sometimes?
Anyone????

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

manderson7015 Enthusiast

manderson7015

Posted
Posted

Well had to do it. Stock wheels wouldnt stop rubbing at full cock to the right with new Freedom UCA's. Bought some KX offroad (makers of XD) 18x9 with -12 offset wrapped in 265/65-r18 Falken Wildpeak AT3. 33x12.5r18 dont fit. I get the rub on rear fender well and im not cutting or banging my new truck. Ill wear these out then raise my truck another inch and try for 33's next time. Gonna install some lighting next.aaed7a2bcb41944d59cb532e98dd271b.jpg6b6caf92f3e7f53edb905f2b845052af.jpg47db913f3200cf5dca3aff0fdf47d23b.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

mcdavis Enthusiast

mcdavis

Posted
Posted
On 9/3/2019 at 1:24 PM, alodawg26 said:

Hello All. I have been searching for a few days now, but haven't found exactly what I'm trying to do. I have a stock suspension 2017 Silverado z71. I'm looking to level it out and improve the ride, but still want a small amount of rake for when I tow/haul. This is my daily driver, and don't do a lot of off-road driving. Most of my driving will be on the highway in the Midwest, meaning horribly maintained asphalt. I'm considering:

 

Bilstein 5100 adjustable on the next to highest (3rd?) setting OR, do I want to do a coilover assembly replacement? I haven't seen anything on these yet: https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-leveling-struts-500063.html?find=2017-chevy-silverado-1500-4wd-374174. Has anyone installed/used these? If so, how is the ride quality of these?? I've seen nothing on the N3 shocks. $329 seems pretty cheap especially when comparing against the Fox and Bilstein 6112. If I go the coilover and shock replacement route, should I just save my money and buy a Bilstein or Fox?

 

Thanks for your help and advice.

 

What did you wind up going with?

Hawkeye79 Enthusiast

Hawkeye79

Posted
Posted
On 11/15/2019 at 8:26 PM, manderson7015 said:

So my first problem with my set-up. My driver side tire rubs UCA when turned to right at full cock. Left side fine. Ordered 1/4" spacers for now. My local shop guy told me running stock wheels with aftermarket UCA causes the rub sometimes?
Anyone????

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

Hate to hear that.  Unfortunately, it’s what I’ve heard a lot of.  Did you get the rub  before or after the new tires?  I’m told anything over 11.5” wide will rub with the factory wheels.  Wondering if I stayed at 11” if they’d still do it. If you did get the rub before new tires, what did you have on it previously? On a side note for anyone interested, I talked to JBA Offroad today inquiring about their arms.  For now, they make nothing compatible with the stamped steel or aluminum UCAs, only the cast steel,  but they are in the works.   However, he couldn’t tell me an expected release date.  If you look at the design of their arms, they are built with a slight bend in them he said that corrects this issue everyone’s having with rubbing.  Too bad they aren’t available yet?.  At any rate, doesn’t do us much good for now, but hopefully they’ll get them out sooner than later. 

 

manderson7015 Enthusiast

manderson7015

Posted
Posted
Hate to hear that.  Unfortunately, it’s what I’ve heard a lot of.  Did you get the rub  before or after the new tires?  I’m told anything over 11.5” wide will rub with the factory wheels.  Wondering if I stayed at 11” if they’d still do it. If you did get the rub before new tires, what did you have on it previously? On a side note for anyone interested, I talked to JBA Offroad today inquiring about their arms.  For now, they make nothing compatible with the stamped steel or aluminum UCAs, only the cast steel,  but they are in the works.   However, he couldn’t tell me an expected release date.  If you look at the design of their arms, they are built with a slight bend in them he said that corrects this issue everyone’s having with rubbing.  Too bad they aren’t available yet[emoji57].  At any rate, doesn’t do us much good for now, but hopefully they’ll get them out sooner than later. 
 
Was getting the rub with stock wheels and tires. Went with18x9 -12 offset wheels and 275x65r18 tires...no rub anymore. 32.3" tall and 11" wide.

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

jcrowden Enthusiast

jcrowden

Posted
Posted

Anyone on here ever tried 285/70/18 tires with a 2" rough country level on a 2014 chevy Silverado? My 275/70/18 toyo open country m/t's have 55k miles on them and its time for a new set. I'm tempted to try the 285/70/18 in nitto ridge grappler. Anyone have this set up? If so, any rub and how much? Attached is a pic of my truck with the 275/70/18 toyo open country m/t (33.6 x 11) with no rub.

truck.jpg

theJman Enthusiast

theJman

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, jcrowden said:

Anyone on here ever tried 285/70/18 tires with a 2" rough country level on a 2014 chevy Silverado? My 275/70/18 toyo open country m/t's have 55k miles on them and its time for a new set. I'm tempted to try the 285/70/18 in nitto ridge grappler. Anyone have this set up? If so, any rub and how much? Attached is a pic of my truck with the 275/70/18 toyo open country m/t (33.6 x 11) with no rub.

truck.jpg

I have a 2" RC level and 285/70/18's on stock rims and there has been no issues thus far (a little over 3k miles since everything was installed).  My truck is a 2018 2500HD though so it's not apples-to-apples.

  • Like 1
jcrowden Enthusiast

jcrowden

Posted
Posted
52 minutes ago, theJman said:

I have a 2" RC level and 285/70/18's on stock rims and there has been no issues thus far (a little over 3k miles since everything was installed).  My truck is a 2018 2500HD though so it's not apples-to-apples.

I wouldn't expect them to rub on a 2500. Thanks for the comment though!

manderson7015 Enthusiast

manderson7015

Posted
Posted
Anyone on here ever tried 285/70/18 tires with a 2" rough country level on a 2014 chevy Silverado? My 275/70/18 toyo open country m/t's have 55k miles on them and its time for a new set. I'm tempted to try the 285/70/18 in nitto ridge grappler. Anyone have this set up? If so, any rub and how much? Attached is a pic of my truck with the 275/70/18 toyo open country m/t (33.6 x 11) with no rub.
truck.jpg.c9c756e5d026a83838a5d821b5a72a68.jpg
Was told that size is hard to get.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

jcrowden Enthusiast

jcrowden

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, manderson7015 said:

Was told that size is hard to get.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

In nitto ridge grapplers?

xax Enthusiast

xax

Posted
Posted
23 hours ago, jcrowden said:

Anyone on here ever tried 285/70/18 tires with a 2" rough country level on a 2014 chevy Silverado? My 275/70/18 toyo open country m/t's have 55k miles on them and its time for a new set. I'm tempted to try the 285/70/18 in nitto ridge grappler. Anyone have this set up? If so, any rub and how much? Attached is a pic of my truck with the 275/70/18 toyo open country m/t (33.6 x 11) with no rub.

Guys run 295/70/17s so dont see how that size would rub if those dont

jcrowden Enthusiast

jcrowden

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, xax said:

Guys run 295/70/17s so dont see how that size would rub if those dont

I'm gonna try it and see. It still blows my mind I've yet to find one single person with the exact setup I'm asking about. Maybe ill be the first with a 2" RC level and 285/70/18 nitto ridge grapplers lol

jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
I'm gonna try it and see. It still blows my mind I've yet to find one single person with the exact setup I'm asking about. Maybe ill be the first with a 2" RC level and 285/70/18 nitto ridge grapplers lol


I’ve never even heard of that size before. That being said, they’re very similar to a 285/75/17 and those will for sure rub on a 2” level. It will require some trimming but it’s doable


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
manderson7015 Enthusiast

manderson7015

Posted
Posted
In nitto ridge grapplers?
Just that size in general. I wanted that size. Told i had to wait to get. I dunno didnt want to wait.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 409 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...