Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Rick Burnham Enthusiast

Rick Burnham

Posted
Posted

Used Bilsteins for 1.8" up front coupled with 275/60/20 Dura Tracs on my stock rims, really happy with the ride, MPG's with the cruise set at 88mph was terrible though....IMG_6432.thumb.jpg.1d73d84f23114695ca76405cc6f6d67c.jpg

theJman Enthusiast

theJman

Posted
Posted
54 minutes ago, Rick Burnham said:

Used Bilsteins for 1.8" up front coupled with 275/60/20 Dura Tracs on my stock rims, really happy with the ride, MPG's with the cruise set at 88mph was terrible though....

Surely you expected crappy mileage though, right?  If you increased the tire size the speedo is off so you were doing well in excess of 90 MPH.  The leveling also raised the front end so now you have more air going underneath, which means more turbulence.  Couple that with a vehicle as aerodynamic as a cinder block and mileage is going to be in the toilet.

Rick Burnham Enthusiast

Rick Burnham

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, theJman said:

Surely you expected crappy mileage though, right?  If you increased the tire size the speedo is off so you were doing well in excess of 90 MPH.  The leveling also raised the front end so now you have more air going underneath, which means more turbulence.  Couple that with a vehicle as aerodynamic as a cinder block and mileage is going to be in the toilet.

yeah I had low expectations, it was just worse than expected.  I used GPS so the cruise was set at an honest 88 and calculated the MPG manually using the NAV.  I knew the level and 33's wasn't going to help it any LOL!  I just bought this truck to replace my trusty 06' Silverado SS (2wd), it would get 17mpg driving it hard through the mountains....different animal though..

bowhunter8 Enthusiast

bowhunter8

Posted
Posted
CA313A6B-7235-48D5-A0A0-6A3DA20F2248.thumb.jpeg.933604e7d830faa5e326b8c86cb94959.jpeg



Good looking truck... what are the specs on the level kit and tires/wheels?

Looks like you do use it off-roading, did you replace the factory upper control arm or keep it stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ryan Z71 Enthusiast

Ryan Z71

Posted
Posted
52 minutes ago, bowhunter8 said:

 

 


Good looking truck... what are the specs on the level kit and tires/wheels?

Looks like you do use it off-roading, did you replace the factory upper control arm or keep it stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

It’s a stage 5 Icon suspension set at about 2” of loft in the front. 17” procomp wheels. 33” ko2’s. 

D8C05AAB-BB3D-4D4F-A404-7FAC9F4BAA5D.jpeg

  • Like 3
malibu43 Enthusiast

malibu43

Posted
Posted

Hello all.  New to this forum!

 

I am looking at leveling my 2015 Silverado.  I was initially thinking of a 2" spacer in front, but then was considering going with 1.5 due to concerns with the truck squatting with any sort of load in the back.  I've been reading up on things online and now I wonder if my rear is sitting lower than normal.  Measured from the ground to the center of the wheel well lip, my front is at about 36.25" and the rear is at about 38.375". (This is with 265/70r17 tires).  Is this normal or could there be something up?  Looks like the stock block is still in there (didn't get a chance to measure, though).  See the image below.

 

Also, here's pic of my truck this last weekend with a typical weekend getaway load for us.  It certainly doesn't look like this every day, but it's often enough that I don't want my truck to squat when I do it.  I actually measured when we got home, and the rear was about 1" lower than when unloaded.  The cost to add a rear block isn't much componenet-wise, but I've gotta pay someone to install and it doubles the installation costs...

 

 

20200211_150229.jpg

20200211_150117.jpg

20200210_141000.jpg

malibu43 Enthusiast

malibu43

Posted
Posted (edited)

So after thinking it over a little more and watching all the install videos out there, I think I'm going to do the install myself.  I'll give myself a full day for each of the front and rear, and see who I can round up to help me out.  That kinda takes cost out of the equation and lets me do what I know I'll like.

 

I'm thinking right now about a motofab 2" spacer in the front and a 1" lift in the back to maintain some rake.  They don't offer a package with 2"/1" Front/Rear - not sure if there is a reason why...  Has anyone done the same level/lift?  On the plus side, since they're separate anyway, I can start with the front and then see if/what I want to do in the back to compensate for squatting...

 

No plans in the immediate future for new tires, but what would be the biggest I could go if I go with the setup above?

Edited by malibu43
jimbrown1 Enthusiast

jimbrown1

Posted
Posted
On ‎2‎/‎12‎/‎2020 at 12:33 AM, malibu43 said:

So after thinking it over a little more and watching all the install videos out there, I think I'm going to do the install myself.  I'll give myself a full day for each of the front and rear, and see who I can round up to help me out.  That kinda takes cost out of the equation and lets me do what I know I'll like.

 

I'm thinking right now about a motofab 2" spacer in the front and a 1" lift in the back to maintain some rake.  They don't offer a package with 2"/1" Front/Rear - not sure if there is a reason why...  Has anyone done the same level/lift?  On the plus side, since they're separate anyway, I can start with the front and then see if/what I want to do in the back to compensate for squatting...

 

No plans in the immediate future for new tires, but what would be the biggest I could go if I go with the setup above?

The level kit manufacturer will have a recommendation on the proper tire but in my personal experience, I've always been able to run stock wheels and a 275/60/20 tire due to the narrowness as compared to a 295/55/20 which might require some trimming.  Might be able to run a 285/55/20 since it's a little shorter than a 275/65/20 but I do not have any rubbing, even at full lock. with my level kit and running the 275/60/20 BFG All Terrain T/A KO2 tires. 

malibu43 Enthusiast

malibu43

Posted
Posted
On 2/13/2020 at 9:45 AM, jimbrown1 said:

The level kit manufacturer will have a recommendation on the proper tire but in my personal experience, I've always been able to run stock wheels and a 275/60/20 tire due to the narrowness as compared to a 295/55/20 which might require some trimming.  Might be able to run a 285/55/20 since it's a little shorter than a 275/65/20 but I do not have any rubbing, even at full lock. with my level kit and running the 275/60/20 BFG All Terrain T/A KO2 tires. 

Thanks for the feedback.  I honestly thought my post would get more responses and input given how popular this thread is.  Maybe it's a slow time of year...

 

Anyway.  My Motofab 2" front leveling spacers came yesterday, and I also stopped at HomeDepot and picked up a Husky Light-truck floor jack (3 tons, 21" lift) and some new jack stands. Now I just need to carve out a few (or several) hours with an extra set of hands available to get it installed.

 

Once I see how it looks with the 2" level in the front, I may a) do nothing, b) add the 1" lift block in the rear, or c) try something like a Helwig Helper Spring to keep the truck from squatting when I use the bed/hitch.  I'll cross that bridge when i get there.

moreyg1228 Enthusiast

moreyg1228

Posted
Posted

I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 CC  planning to put the 2" RC front level kit.

Which set up would give me the more beefy look without rubbing or trimming?

-275x65x18 or 285x70x17

As far as wheels, I'm thinking doing -12mm offset and 17/18x9. 

Help would be appreciated. 

 

Picture provided. My stock tires are due for tire change, so I might as well upgrade.

 

IMG_8553 (1).jpg

gm-lift-kit_13078-base.jpg

jcrowden Enthusiast

jcrowden

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, moreyg1228 said:

I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 CC  planning to put the 2" RC front level kit.

Which set up would give me the more beefy look without rubbing or trimming?

-275x65x18 or 285x70x17

As far as wheels, I'm thinking doing -12mm offset and 17/18x9. 

Help would be appreciated. 

 

Picture provided. My stock tires are due for tire change, so I might as well upgrade.

 

IMG_8553 (1).jpg

gm-lift-kit_13078-base.jpg

I have 285/70/18 nitto ridge grapplers on mine with a 2” RC level

B82D5439-467A-43E9-9DD4-15369E75BC4F.jpeg

C88C6183-3DC1-421D-931F-FB48E942A42A.jpeg

aleeuw Enthusiast

aleeuw

Posted
Posted

I have a 2018 with 2.5" front, 2" rear Motofab, looking to get new tires on stock 20" LTZ wheels. Current tires are stock 275/55R20. 

 

Trying to figure out my best bet on largest tire size with no rub or cutting on the following sizes:

275/60R20 (33" x 11")

285/60R20 (33.5" x 11.5")

275/65R20 (34.1" x 11")

 

Can anyone provide their thoughts and/or experience?

mdf21 Enthusiast

mdf21

Posted
Posted
On 2/21/2020 at 10:03 AM, aleeuw said:

I have a 2018 with 2.5" front, 2" rear Motofab, looking to get new tires on stock 20" LTZ wheels. Current tires are stock 275/55R20. 

 

Trying to figure out my best bet on largest tire size with no rub or cutting on the following sizes:

275/60R20 (33" x 11")

285/60R20 (33.5" x 11.5")

275/65R20 (34.1" x 11")

 

Can anyone provide their thoughts and/or experience?

I just put this kit on also and curious on tire suggestions 

 

 

19A5FA0C-B502-4D8C-BD54-C30C42EAFE5B.jpeg

ED8D2D0B-94ED-4844-92BD-707EDF92BE87.jpeg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    chfkief
    Newest Member
    chfkief
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,384 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • chfkief
      FS: Black Bear Performance AutoCal Tuning System

      By chfkief · Posted

      Do you still have?
    • 3CarSeatDad
      High Country Suburban build confirmation

      By 3CarSeatDad · Posted

      Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • revmanii
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By revmanii · Posted

      Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Core-Lokt
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By Core-Lokt · Posted

      Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...