Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
My 2018 Sierra has a 2.5 inch level and I’m running 315/70/r17 (metric size of 35/12.5) with very and I mean very little rub on the felt liner on the back side of the wheel well. 

Are you on stock wheels? Got any pics?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
54 minutes ago, jimbrown1 said:

Where did you read that?

Tire Rack has it in they’re description 

Posted
2 hours ago, RJ3 said:

Tire Rack has it in they’re description 

I found that on the Ready Lift website as well.  I'm not sure why they would state that, unless it has something to do with shock travel.  

Posted
On 7/31/2020 at 7:49 AM, Built2crash said:

Just to contribute to the post, my experience with leveling kits:

 

My 2013 Silverado had a 2" RC Leveling kit in it and I ran 32.5" BFG TKO2, all other components were stock.  I ran that truck for 50K miles before I upgraded. I had zero problems with that setup.

 

I just recently put an Eibach Pro Level kit in my 2016 GMC Sierra. that kit includes 4 new shocks and spring up front. I'm running that on the 2.5" lift setting. I have stock 18" rims with 285/65/18 BFG TAKO2 on it (32.5" tire). I'm sure I can fit 33" tires on it no problem and I'm pretty sure I could fit 33.5" with no or maybe minor trim. Also, all other components are stock. Will post pictures soon.

 

My brother in law has a 2018 sierra we put a 2" RC spacer in it with 33.5" BFG TAKO2's, did the nor Cal mod on it and they fit fine. We actually did the Nor Cal mod prior to testing the tires out so I cant say if they would have rubbed without the mod or not, I think they would have rubbed just eyeballing it.

 

In all these cases the ride quality was basically the same with the level kits installed, My eibach setup is better ride quality.

 

Conclusion: IMO and as others have said, stay at 3" or less for a level to save your components. Otherwise, spend the money and go 5" or 6" lift kit, this allows you to run a larger tire and saves your components and ride quality.

 

Hope this helps

 

 

 

19 hours ago, Danyoda said:

My 2018 Sierra has a 2.5 inch level and I’m running 315/70/r17 (metric size of 35/12.5) with very and I mean very little rub on the felt liner on the back side of the wheel well. 

Thank you both for the info! Very helpful as I work out what I want to do.

Posted

I have a new 19 Sierra dblcab 1500 limited. I plan on installing a 2.25 leveling kit with 3” rear block on it and run 275/65-20 ko2. I had this same setup on my 15 all terrain with zero issues for over a 100k. Now readylift’s kit includes upper control arms. They say on their website that I should replace the stamped steel ones with theirs. Anybody know why? Never changed them on my 15.

Thx

Posted
I have a new 19 Sierra dblcab 1500 limited. I plan on installing a 2.25 leveling kit with 3” rear block on it and run 275/65-20 ko2. I had this same setup on my 15 all terrain with zero issues for over a 100k. Now readylift’s kit includes upper control arms. They say on their website that I should replace the stamped steel ones with theirs. Anybody know why? Never changed them on my 15.
Thx
The older UCAs were compatible the stamped steel UCAs will rub the tires on anything bigger than stock.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Posted

The thing is I won’t be running a wider tire. Stock on there now is a 275/55-20 and I’m just going taller

Posted
The thing is I won’t be running a wider tire. Stock on there now is a 275/55-20 and I’m just going taller
I think they also correct angles or improve on them as well, the stamped steel UCAs are garbage, another cost cutting measure I'm betting.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Posted

Any shame in replacing only the rear shocks for now ? So undecided on a leveling kit, and really hate the red shock boot with an all blue truck....

Posted
Any shame in replacing only the rear shocks for now ? So undecided on a leveling kit, and really hate the red shock boot with an all blue truck....

Not at all. I swapped my Ranchos out for some Bilstein 5100s. Immediately felt more controlled especially going around rough corners. The truck didn’t feel like is was going shimmy off the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Any shame in replacing only the rear shocks for now ? So undecided on a leveling kit, and really hate the red shock boot with an all blue truck....

Not at all. I swapped my Ranchos out for some Bilstein 5100s. Immediately felt more controlled especially going around rough corners. The truck didn’t feel like is was going shimmy off the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 hour ago, RJ3 said:

Any shame in replacing only the rear shocks for now ? So undecided on a leveling kit, and really hate the red shock boot with an all blue truck....

 

No shame in replacing the Ranchos.  I did the same thing as Langston1726 except I went with the 5100 struts in front to replace the stock Ranchos and already had a Rugged Off Road bottom strut spacer in place.  Ride is great.  Much better than with the Ranchos. 

Posted
1 hour ago, langston1726 said:


Not at all. I swapped my Ranchos out for some Bilstein 5100s. Immediately felt more controlled especially going around rough corners. The truck didn’t feel like is was going shimmy off the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And the 5100’s won’t jack up the rear, nor any shock shouldn’t have ride height difference? 

Posted
And the 5100’s won’t jack up the rear, nor any shock shouldn’t have ride height difference? 

 

Nope. They have a range of 0-1” lift I believe

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
19 hours ago, RJ3 said:

Any shame in replacing only the rear shocks for now ? So undecided on a leveling kit, and really hate the red shock boot with an all blue truck....

you'll get a lot of recommendations for Bilstiens...i would also recommend you check out Eibach...they are American made and if/when you get to the front their adjustable front shocks go a little higher than bilstiens and will be closer to true level...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
    • "Life is getting back to normal."    I'm driving again and all new joints are operating as expected for this stage of recovery.   My most recent joint replacement still requires a lot of attention but experience has taught me that time will quiet the remaining pain.  I joked with my surgeon that another joint replacement would take my mind off my most recent surgery and he responded by saying the next will be a hip!  There are no plans for another surgery but, unlike me, I don't think he was joking!  I certainly wouldn't refuse further replacement  if required but hope to spend time out of the "post-op"  period.  I can't stress enough that if you have been recommended for total hip, knee or shoulder replacement that you welcome the offer.  Post-op "recovery" may sound daunting and painful, however, this is far better than the insidious erosion of mobility you are currently experiencing.  Imagine what it would feel like to wake up most mornings feeling better and more mobile than you did the previous day!  Prior to my first surgery in June 2025, even getting out of bed was becoming a formidable task.  Since the day after my first surgery, I get out of bed everyday easily and unassisted.  Making the switch to feeling a little better each day rather than a little worse, is hugely motivating!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...