Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hello everyone.  I have a 2015 with the 2" Motofab lower strut spacer that I installed early in 2020.  I'm getting ready for a wheel and tire upgrade, but want to go with a 3" level first.  I'm planning on adding Rough Country UCA's and doing the Motofab 3"/1" F/R level.

 

Anyone see any potential issues or things to watch out for going with this setup?

 

https://motofablifts.com/i-30558235-3-front-and-1-rear-leveling-lift-kit-for-2007-2019-chevy-silverado-sierra-gmc.html?ref=category:1390599

 

https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-forged-upper-control-arms-19401a.html?find=2015-chevy-silverado-1500-4wd-738185

 

 

edit - also could go with the Motofab UCA's.  Any thoughts on Rough Country vs Motofab?

https://motofablifts.com/i-30558322-14-16-chevy-gmc-silverado-sierra-1500-upper-control-arms-with-forged-steel-upper-control-arms.html?ref=category:1390599

 

Edited by malibu43
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Alright,  coming up on needing new tires. Currently running 285/70/17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2s with really no rubbing. However, I'm really interested in seeing if I could go bigger on current setup even if I have to pull some fender liners and trim some plastic. 

 

Sitting with only 2" Rough Country leveling kit up front. Thoughts with this setup if I can get more sidewall height in there?  Thanks for any input. 

Posted (edited)

Hey guys, way too much info to sort through here...

 

I've got a 2018 LT Z71 Crewcab w/ factory 20" wheels. I added AirLift bags to the back earlier this year to reduce squat when pulling my 28' TT and improve ride quality. With the AirLift bags I'm measuring 39.5" in the rear and 36.5" in the front.

 

I've got 30k miles on the truck now.  Once the factory Goodyears give up I'm wanting to get 33" A/Ts on the factory 20" rims. 

 

What is the best leveling kit to get me close to level without worrying about rubbing with 33s, replacing UCA, ball joint wear, etc?

silverado.jpg

Edited by jthoske
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, jthoske said:

Hey guys, way too much info to sort through here...

 

I've got a 2018 LT Z71 Crewcab w/ factory 20" wheels. I added AirLift bags to the back earlier this year to reduce squat when pulling my 28' TT and improve ride quality. With the AirLift bags I'm measuring 39.5" in the rear and 36.5" in the front.

 

I've got 30k miles on the truck now.  Once the factory Goodyears give up I'm wanting to get 33" A/Ts on the factory 20" rims. 

 

What is the best leveling kit to get me close to level without worrying about rubbing with 33s, replacing UCA, ball joint wear, etc?

silverado.jpg

I was just the opposite of your scenario. On my 2016 w/20" rims, I had added the Rough Country spacers that gave me about a 2" level on front and matched the rear. I didn't need to change anything else out. I finally got around to changing out the tires last December and went with 275/60R20 Falken Wildpeaks. This size will give you 33". I have no rubbing at all. Then I finally picked up my 2021 Wildwood FSX Toyhauler in March. It's a 25' and even with correctly setup WDH, my sag in rear, although completely normal, put the rear too low and had my headlights pointed skyward at night. I then added the Airlift 5000 bags and air them up to just under 20lbs when towing. That seems to work just fine. When not towing, I run maybe 5-10psi and that keeps me level. 

 

So my point is a 2" spacer level should be all you need to run 33" tires.

Edited by mikeyk101
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
On 4/4/2021 at 12:46 AM, MikeBMW said:

Yes, I had 33s prior with just a 2" level, got rubbing on the UCA.
Went with the 3" and my guy told me he wouldn't do it without new UCAs.
And, yes, after the body lift, a laborious task no shop in my are wanted to do to so I had to do it myself, the 35s fit fine.
I did go to the installer of the 35s and asked them to install the fronts so I could check clearance. before committing to the install. If they didn't fit, I was ready to put back on the 33s.
Happily, the 35s were fine and, with the Motofab UCAs, no rubbing.
To be fair, I had already measured everything and trimmed a small part of the front fender liner on the inside.No one would even notice it, except me. :)

I posted this a bit ago.
Even with the 2" level, on stock rims, you'll need to replace the UCAs.
I used Motofab UCAs and, even with my 35s and a 1" extra lift from the Bilsteins as well as the 3" Motofab level, and a rear 1" block and 1.5" rear spring lift and a 1.5" body lift, the 35s fit comfortably.
As mentioned by @mikeyk101, 33s will fit on a 2" level, but, you will get some rubbing if you don't replace the UCAs. (with 33x12.5s)
 

Edited by MikeBMW
  • Confused 1
Posted
On 7/30/2021 at 10:23 PM, mikeyk101 said:

I was just the opposite of your scenario. On my 2016 w/20" rims, I had added the Rough Country spacers that gave me about a 2" level on front and matched the rear. I didn't need to change anything else out. I finally got around to changing out the tires last December and went with 275/60R20 Falken Wildpeaks. This size will give you 33". I have no rubbing at all. Then I finally picked up my 2021 Wildwood FSX Toyhauler in March. It's a 25' and even with correctly setup WDH, my sag in rear, although completely normal, put the rear too low and had my headlights pointed skyward at night. I then added the Airlift 5000 bags and air them up to just under 20lbs when towing. That seems to work just fine. When not towing, I run maybe 5-10psi and that keeps me level. 

 

So my point is a 2" spacer level should be all you need to run 33" tires.

Thanks. I was kind of thinking the 2" is what I needed. Is your ride quality any worse when unloaded? I bought the AirLift 5000 that has the internal jounce bumpers so when I'm unloaded I usually let all of the air out of it. I felt like the AirLift also raised the back end up ~1" or so unloaded, even with no air in the system.

 

Did you buy the RC leveling kit that goes above or below the shock/strut?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Got my 2.5” Rough Country leveling kit installed, accompanied by 2” wheel spacers all around and Nexen Roadian MTX 33” tires wrapped on stock rims. Needed a bit of trimming in the front but overall nothing drastic. 

C0086404-9454-4F9A-ACF0-B7D10F9C89A3.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted
10 hours ago, Daws18LTZ said:

Got my 2.5” Rough Country leveling kit installed, accompanied by 2” wheel spacers all around and Nexen Roadian MTX 33” tires wrapped on stock rims. Needed a bit of trimming in the front but overall nothing drastic. 

C0086404-9454-4F9A-ACF0-B7D10F9C89A3.jpeg

Great job! Nice looking truck! :)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 7/30/2021 at 10:35 AM, jthoske said:

Hey guys, way too much info to sort through here...

 

I've got a 2018 LT Z71 Crewcab w/ factory 20" wheels. I added AirLift bags to the back earlier this year to reduce squat when pulling my 28' TT and improve ride quality. With the AirLift bags I'm measuring 39.5" in the rear and 36.5" in the front.

 

I've got 30k miles on the truck now.  Once the factory Goodyears give up I'm wanting to get 33" A/Ts on the factory 20" rims. 

 

What is the best leveling kit to get me close to level without worrying about rubbing with 33s, replacing UCA, ball joint wear, etc?

silverado.jpg

If you are worried about balljoint wear, stick with a 1.5" or 2" leveling kit.

Posted
25 minutes ago, NWI Denali said:

If you are worried about balljoint wear, stick with a 1.5" or 2" leveling kit.

True.
Or, go with a new UCA set up for a level to help alleviate such issues on up to a 3" level.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a 2in motofab leveling kit that’s been great and accommodates my TIS 544, 33/12.5/22 with a little trimming and slight rub. Couldn’t be happier for $150. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 7/22/2021 at 9:14 PM, TX018Z71 said:

Alright,  coming up on needing new tires. Currently running 285/70/17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2s with really no rubbing. However, I'm really interested in seeing if I could go bigger on current setup even if I have to pull some fender liners and trim some plastic. 

 

Sitting with only 2" Rough Country leveling kit up front. Thoughts with this setup if I can get more sidewall height in there?  Thanks for any input. 


what did you end up doing? 
2018 z71 crew due for new shoes. 
was hoping to go with 5100s in the front and nitto 295/70/18. Tx

Posted
On 4/29/2021 at 10:25 AM, rockclimbermi said:

Sorry if this is a dumb question. I have read many of the posts and I'm more confused now than before. I want to do 2 things: 1. install some sort of leveling kit/ device along with new shocks front and rear and 2. put on the biggest tires that will fit. I was thinking I was going to get the Bilstein 5100's. I thought that these included a method of leveling my truck, but I have seen people mention spacers. Not sure if they mean spacers for the rims or to provide the leveling of the front end of the truck. I have a 2016 1500 Silverado Z71 5.3L with the stock black 18 X 8.5" rims, which have a 24 mm offset. I was also believe that BFG KO2 275 70 R18's (33.2 X 10.8") will fit without rub... hopefully. These are 1.6" taller and 0.4 inches wider than the stock Duratracs on it now. I don't go off road very often, so I suppose it's mostly for looks. I do drive down Michigan dirt roads every day which are almost always rutted. I have noticed the stock Rancho's can get pretty squirley in the rear and the fronts seem to be rather soft. I am hoping that the Bilstein's would help that problem. I don't know, maybe I am better off with something else? Any help or knowledge as to exactly what I need is greatly appreciated. Maybe the part numbers for the front and rear Bilstein 5100's. Do I just get the shocks/ struts or do I need something else? I am more concerned with keeping the truck driving well on regular roads than being some sort of awesome off road beast. Going off roading is fun too though, but not my number 1 concern. Thank you for any help, I really appreciate it!

 

Update:  Sorry for the slow update. I did go with the  BFG KO2 275 70 R18 tires and the Bilstein leveling kit with the 5100 shocks. I haven't had any rub. The tires were installed 7-10-21 and the leveling kit a couple of days prior to that. On the negative side, my truck isn't perfectly level. Probably could go up around another quarter of an inch. No big deal. On the positive side. The truck looks good and rides great. It goes over rutted roads with a lot more control. It doesn't 100% control it, but it is hugely improved. The front end going down too far in certain conditions is also gone. The Bilsteins look like a high quality product, as they should be for the price. No paint to flake off, just stainless steel. Hopefully they last a long time. The leveling kit is all built in to the front struts, so there is nothing else to buy or install. I haven't noticed any negatives as far as how the truck handles. Just improvements. Measured heights before kit and tires: Height of just tires: 30.5  (with 50k + miles), 36.5" from ground to bottom of front fender prior to level kit. 39.25" from ground to bottom of rear fender prior to level kit. After leveling kit and tires: Just tires: 32.5 (tire height with 0 miles), 39 from ground to bottom of front fender after level kit, 39.5 from ground to bottom of rear fender after level kit. So in the end the tire diameter increased by 2 inches (1 inch of vehicle height), front end rose 2.5 inches and rear end rose 0.25 inches. Bilstein claims a 1.8 inch front end lift. I would think they should do a full 2 inches, but I think they did a max of 1.8 because more than that would start to cause geometry issues. You can also choose less of a front increase with the Bilsteins. I think there are 3 or 4 choices including factory height. 

 

20210710_105900.jpg

20210710_105911.jpg

20210710_105929.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 626 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...