Jump to content

Why does GM not recommend paint sealant?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Have a new Sierra on order and chomping at the bit to get it.. While waiting I have read the owners manual over and over and in one section I saw that GM does not recommend an aftermarket paint sealant. Why do you think they say this? I'm on the fence about gettting it and appreciate your advice before I decide.

 

- Alan

Posted

GM only recommends what makes them money.

Posted

Have a new Sierra on order and chomping at the bit to get it.. While waiting I have read the owners manual over and over and in one section I saw that GM does not recommend an aftermarket paint sealant. Why do you think they say this? I'm on the fence about gettting it and appreciate your advice before I decide.

 

- Alan

 

Alan just keep it waxed with a good wax and save your money , don't get the Rust module either , Rust check ( Cropp St NF ) or Krown in our area for Rust protection

Posted

Although paint sealant is a good thing to have, so is a good coat of wax. These clear coats have changed over the last few years and they have a hard time against bird poo, acid rain, and anything else in the air. I personally like Zaino Bros. stuff on my rides. Goes on and off like butter and seems to really stick on the clear really well. I've had fresh tar on my paint before and the stuff literally fell off just by using the hose!!!! The trick though is thoroughly cleaning the surface the wax is to be applied. I usually do only 2 waxes a year but it holds up very very well. These dumb manufacturers and dealers are still saying that you don't need anything but almost in the same breath they will offer a dealer supplied system instead :/

Posted

I can't give you an exact reason why they recommend against them. My only guess is that they are referring to the "magical forever coatings" that a lot of dealerships are now trying to push on new vehicles.

 

Both of the sealants we offer are perfectly fine for your new truck, and any brand new vehicle for that matter.

 

We've been putting our sealants on new C7 Corvettes for a few months now and the paint hasn't fallen off of them.....yet. ;)

Posted

Obviously gm isn't in the 21st century. There are sealants that last for years. It's called nano technology.

 

I must say it rained the other day, my truck sat in it. Came out after work and paint showed no effects of the rain. Te windows in the other hand did.

 

 

Ryan

 

 

Posted

There is a guy I work with that tells me all the time I need to quit waxing my truck so much or I will take the clear coat off of it. I just look at him like he's on drugs. :blink:

 

Ryan, try waxing all of your windows besides the windshield. Works great!

 

Posted

Thanks for all the great pointers.. I've just ordered some Adam's sealant and wax and clay bar kit. Studying youtube videos and going to save some money and going to do it myself.. If I can get it as shiny as Daryl's 2011 Silverado I'll be happy.. cheers..

Posted

Thanks for all the great pointers.. I've just ordered some Adam's sealant and wax and clay bar kit. Studying youtube videos and going to save some money and going to do it myself.. If I can get it as shiny as Daryl's 2011 Silverado I'll be happy.. cheers..

 

Adam's Polishes is where its at!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...