Post Pics of Your 2014+

jgraves13 · May 19, 2018

Specs on lift/ wheels and tires?

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michigan2500hd · May 19, 2018

Looks great! Perfect poke on the wheels. Specs?

KJS Sullivan · May 19, 2018

FRONT: +2.5” Level (READY-LIFT)
REAR: +1” Bigger Block (READY-LIFT)
Suspension: Billstein Front/Rear

When doing a 2.5 frt level , does this cause a harsher ride? my concern is doing this on a 2500 that already has a stiffer suspension. Thoughts?

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mdavis985 · May 19, 2018

When doing a 2.5 frt level , does this cause a harsher ride? my concern is doing this on a 2500 that already has a stiffer suspension. Thoughts?

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It’s a pretty drastic difference when leveling a 2500 vs 1500 as far as ride quality

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6TEEN5.3 · May 19, 2018

Specs on lift/ wheels and tires?

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Leveling kit up front and rear blocks removed.
Wheels are 17x9 -6 offset Pro Comp 31
33x12.50r17 Nitto Ridge Grappler

Ryan_OilEngineer_TX · May 19, 2018

2 hours ago, KJS Sullivan said:

When doing a 2.5 frt level , does this cause a harsher ride? my concern is doing this on a 2500 that already has a stiffer suspension. Thoughts?

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On a 2500, for that reason, it’s best to spend a little more for a traditional suspension lift.

I wouldn’t waste my time leveling a 3/4 ton. I always spend more for the upgraded suspension components. But as you know, that’s just my opinion, I can send you some great options for 2500’s if you need some.

KJS Sullivan · May 20, 2018

12 hours ago, Ryan_OilEngineer_TX said:

On a 2500, for that reason, it’s best to spend a little more for a traditional suspension lift.

I wouldn’t waste my time leveling a 3/4 ton. I always spend more for the upgraded suspension components. But as you know, that’s just my opinion, I can send you some great options for 2500’s if you need some.

Sure would like some options i will be using a plow and that added weight brings the front down to much for my liking. We currently have air bag lift in the rear that's adjustable. I'm open to a reasonable lift on the front that would not add to an already rough ride of a three-quarter ton.

Ryan_OilEngineer_TX · May 20, 2018

27 minutes ago, KJS Sullivan said:

Sure would like some options i will be using a plow and that added weight brings the front down to much for my liking. We currently have air bag lift in the rear that's adjustable. I'm open to a reasonable lift on the front that would not add to an already rough ride of a three-quarter ton.

It really comes down to how much are you wanting it lifted and how much are you willing to spend.

KJS Sullivan · May 20, 2018

It really comes down to how much are you wanting it lifted and how much are you willing to spend.

I used to have a 2-inch leveler on the front which was sufficient in height and it had a very rough ride after install so on the new truck I would like something different that would give me to three inch height but a maintaining the ride quality. I don't care about money I would think 1,000 to $ $3,000 the company is paying for it

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HCSilvey · May 20, 2018

That truck looks great man. I really like the wheel/tire combo. What size tires are they and do you have a leveling kit or is that all stock suspension?

Thanks! It currently has stock suspension, but I’m doing Bilstein 5100s soon. The tires are the stock sized 275/55/20 too.

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Waaazooo · May 20, 2018

When doing a 2.5 frt level , does this cause a harsher ride? my concern is doing this on a 2500 that already has a stiffer suspension. Thoughts?

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Turning the stock keys won’t do anything to the ride quality unless you go all the way up and ride on the bump stop. It doesn’t change the spring rate of the torsion bar. Full suspension kit for this truck is a great modification... however you either have the relative leveling type or the frame cutting type. 2.5” in the front can be done in the driveway with 21mm(iirc) combo wrench/socket set. Don’t waste the money if you don’t have too. Crank it and drive it around for a few miles and take a few curbs to see if you like it. If not, dump a few thousand into the suspension. If you do like it, but a set of shock spacers and install them as they will make the ride dampening smoother.

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amxguy1970 · May 21, 2018

16 hours ago, Waaazooo said:

Turning the stock keys won’t do anything to the ride quality unless you go all the way up and ride on the bump stop. It doesn’t change the spring rate of the torsion bar. Full suspension kit for this truck is a great modification... however you either have the relative leveling type or the frame cutting type. 2.5” in the front can be done in the driveway with 21mm(iirc) combo wrench/socket set. Don’t waste the money if you don’t have too. Crank it and drive it around for a few miles and take a few curbs to see if you like it. If not, dump a few thousand into the suspension. If you do like it, but a set of shock spacers and install them as they will make the ride dampening smoother.

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We have had many torsion bar set ups over the years and you are the first person I have heard say cranking a torsion bar will not make it ride worse (except at the max). A torsion bar is a linear spring, each turn makes it tighter and increasing the spring rate. So 1 turn will make it a little stiffer than stock, 5 turns even more so and so on and so on. If he wanted to crank it even 1.5" it would ride rougher than stock but not as rough as 2.5". It basically is like a per-load spacer kit in how it acts with the spring is a good way to describe it (and how bilstein's work). My suggestion if he wants a little more since it is easily reversible is to check out how many cranks equal how many inches and find a number he wants to try, turn it up and drive it around a little and see how it rides. He may not notice much as ride is subjective to each person, or he may notice a big change. He doesn't like it, take that many turns out and go find an actual lift that leaves the torsion bars alone.

Tyler

Edited May 21, 2018 by amxguy1970

Waaazooo · May 21, 2018

We have had many torsion bar set ups over the years and you are the first person I have heard say cranking a torsion bar will not make it ride worse (except at the max). A torsion bar is a linear spring, each turn makes it tighter and increasing the spring rate. So 1 turn will make it a little stiffer than stock, 5 turns even more so and so on and so on. If he wanted to crank it even 1.5" it would ride rougher than stock but not as rough as 2.5". It basically is like a per-load spacer kit in how it acts with the spring is a good way to describe it (and how bilstein's work). My suggestion if he wants a little more since it is easily reversible is to check out how many cranks equal how many inches and find a number he wants to try, turn it up and drive it around a little and see how it rides. He may not notice much as ride is subjective to each person, or he may notice a big change. He doesn't like it, take that many turns out and go find an actual lift that leaves the torsion bars alone.

Tyler

You’re correct it’s a linear spring. Turning the key doesn’t load the spring, there is the same amount of weight on it. The key and suspension arms are the only connection pieces, correct? How does the spring increase it’s spring rate to become stiffer? All you are doing is reindexing the linear spring.

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