Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Got my Borla S-Type installed finally. I love the way it sounds both on initial start-up, cruising on the highway, and when you get aggressive with the throttle. Can't wait to get my headers and Y-pipe installed now, though it will bw a few months until that happens...

Posted

I just ordered the GM Borla kit, should be here Thursday. Looking forward to it. Appreciate all the info on here.

Posted

Will installing a GM Borla kit for a 6.2 on a 5.3 have any negative effect?  I know its not a direct bolt on due to the size difference in ball flange.  Just debating if I should just sell and get correct kit or cut and weld a correct flange on pipe.....

Posted
Will installing a GM Borla kit for a 6.2 on a 5.3 have any negative effect?  I know its not a direct bolt on due to the size difference in ball flange.  Just debating if I should just sell and get correct kit or cut and weld a correct flange on pipe.....
In my limited knowledge yet extensive research I would think using the 6.2 liters exhaust would have a negative effect on a 5.3. I have the 6.2 and the exhaust pipe size is 3.5". I would bet you'd lose some torque down low in the rpms do to not having enough exhaust gas velocity.
In fact I've wondered if the 3.5" is a little big for the 6.2 even.
However maybe Borlas kit is 3" like some others which may be ok. What size is the pipe in Borlas kit?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
In my limited knowledge yet extensive research I would think using the 6.2 liters exhaust would have a negative effect on a 5.3. I have the 6.2 and the exhaust pipe size is 3.5". I would bet you'd lose some torque down low in the rpms do to not having enough exhaust gas velocity.
In fact I've wondered if the 3.5" is a little big for the 6.2 even.
However maybe Borlas kit is 3" like some others which may be ok. What size is the pipe in Borlas kit?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


The 6.2 uses 3.5 to the muffler then 2.75 after the muffler i believe stock so I’m not sure how negative an all 3” muffler back would be on the 6.2?


2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L
4.5" Zone
22x10 American Force Grips
33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
Instagram @wildchevys
Posted

The 6.2 uses 3.5 to the muffler then 2.75 after the muffler i believe stock so I’m not sure how negative an all 3” muffler back would be on the 6.2?

 

 

2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L

4.5" Zone

22x10 American Force Grips

33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

Instagram @wildchevys

I'm only speaking of what I've seen on my 2011 6.2 and my 2015 6.2. other than a couple spots it's necked down to about 3" the rest of the pipe was 3 1/2" all the way to the exit. I have the entire stock system in one piece from the cat back in my garage so I'll try to measure it when I get home.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Posted
I'm only speaking of what I've seen on my 2011 6.2 and my 2015 6.2. other than a couple spots it's necked down to about 3" the rest of the pipe was 3 1/2" all the way to the exit.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


My ‘17 6.2 was 3.5 to the muffler than 2.75 i believe after that to the “tip”


2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L
4.5" Zone
22x10 American Force Grips
33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
Instagram @wildchevys
Posted

Well got the exhaust installed tonight. I was able to do it in the dark with some spotlights, two hours from walking outside to cleaning up. Myself only, no help, and only had to jack up the passenger side a little bit to get the old exhaust out. The GM borla kit sounds absolutely perfect, actually a little louder than I expected but still quiet in the cab. Fit was dead on.

Posted
17 hours ago, michigan2500hd said:

In my limited knowledge yet extensive research I would think using the 6.2 liters exhaust would have a negative effect on a 5.3. I have the 6.2 and the exhaust pipe size is 3.5". I would bet you'd lose some torque down low in the rpms do to not having enough exhaust gas velocity.
In fact I've wondered if the 3.5" is a little big for the 6.2 even.
However maybe Borlas kit is 3" like some others which may be ok. What size is the pipe in Borlas kit?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

I'll measure this evening and report back..... 

Posted

Reduction of backpressure downstream will not have negative effect on torque. 

Posted
On 2/23/2018 at 3:07 PM, PhatBoy said:

Will installing a GM Borla kit for a 6.2 on a 5.3 have any negative effect?  I know its not a direct bolt on due to the size difference in ball flange.  Just debating if I should just sell and get correct kit or cut and weld a correct flange on pipe.....

My friend had a similar situation with his 15 Tahoe.  Got a GM Borla off of ebay from a salvage place, turns out it was for a 6.2 Yukon XL.  Got a 3" flange installed and middle pipe shortened and everything else bolted up.  Been running 2 months with no issues.  Its not very loud unless you are on it but it sounds good.  FWIW both systems muffler is dual 2.25" out.  I didn't do a calculation but I would think the most restrictive component after adding either system would be the cats.

Posted

Since hearing that GM is ramping up the dreaded Active Fuel Mgmt. to drop to ONE cylinder on the T1 trucks, I've been curious what the aftermarket exhaust will end up sounding like.  My grandpa had an old 1 cylinder john deere tractor...not a very sexy sound.

Posted
On 2/23/2018 at 10:03 PM, WC_LTZ said:

Well got the exhaust installed tonight. I was able to do it in the dark with some spotlights, two hours from walking outside to cleaning up. Myself only, no help, and only had to jack up the passenger side a little bit to get the old exhaust out. The GM borla kit sounds absolutely perfect, actually a little louder than I expected but still quiet in the cab. Fit was dead on.

Any sound clips?

Posted
Any sound clips?

Not that I can get with my iPhone that are decent. There are a few on YouTube I found that are pretty accurate if you search. It’s got a good startup note and isn’t too loud under load. Lay into it and you hear it real good. Cruising around town or highway there is no drone or ‘helicopter’ noise in V4. It is a very good quality and I am very happy with it. I do think the flapper valve makes all the difference.

Again, I found it for $999, tips were $116, and got 5% off.
Posted

I also had the overpriced GM Borla dual rear exit exhaust installed on my 2018 SIlverado 5.3.   It is significantly -  but not obnoxiously - louder than stock and plenty loud for me.  You definitely know it is there at all times.    My only gripe would be that the rear pipes of this set hang down much too far, especially since I went with muffler shop 3" tips instead of the more expensive larger 4" Borla tips.    Apparently it will void the warranty if I have the shop move the pipes up, but I'll probably have that done soon regardless.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...