Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

update: drop shackles installed and blocks removed. pretty happy with how it came out. some pictures make it look like the ass is lower now. see for yourself. i dont know why those pictures are turned, any info on that? haha

 

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1489.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_1492.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_1505.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_1507.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_1519.JPG

 

 

 

Your rear end is probably lower now, looks like it to me. Measure from ground to cab at the front and back of your cab, not from ground to fenders.

  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

Joseph P. Enthusiast

Joseph P.

Posted
Posted

 

 

I noticed this on mine the other day after I removed my rear blocks.

yeah, it's exactly .500 inch different. I use a long solid stick, put it up against the tire to the fender, the gap on the two front and the passenger side wheels are almost the same gap, but the driver side rear have a big gap.

Joseph P. Enthusiast

Joseph P.

Posted
Posted

I've talk to my service adviser at the dealership about knocking of the leaf springs and the vibrations at certain speed. they said engineer knows about the knocking and vibration, they're working on it. but I think we need them to fix the off center of the rear axle. If everyone can check this and bring it to their attention it will help. I'm a machinist, and seeing this imperfection drives me crazy. I'm glad that my truck is not the only one.

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

yeah, it's exactly .500 inch different. I use a long solid stick, put it up against the tire to the fender, the gap on the two front and the passenger side wheels are almost the same gap, but the driver side rear have a big gap.

I've read that they do this for tracking so that the rear tires aren't in the exact same tire track as the front, for better traction.

Joseph P. Enthusiast

Joseph P.

Posted
Posted

I've read that they do this for tracking so that the rear tires aren't in the exact same tire track as the front, for better traction.

why just one tire, though? all the other cars and truck I've looked at and check don't have that.

  • 2 weeks later...
sprayed99 Enthusiast

sprayed99

Posted
Posted (edited)

2015 Denali dropped 2/4 with spindles and leafs/shackles and my adjustable links for the Mag Ride. 295/40/24 on 24x10 Centerline Archers

 

0921151546_zps0af94vrt.jpg

 

2015 Silverado leveled with Shackles and .5" block swap. 305/45/22 on Centerline Stingray IIIs

 

0920151543b_zpsy3s3deub.jpg

Edited by sprayed99
  • Like 1
sprayed99 Enthusiast

sprayed99

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Hey Dan, Curious if you got this sorted out. I talked to McGaughys several months ago and they did not know when they would get MRC kits to production.

McGaughys or anyone else for that matter should say to bend the factory rods. I told Mcgaughys that almost 6 months ago. Bending the rods does not keep the same "sweep" with the sensors as the ride height changes.

Edited by sprayed99
07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted (edited)

Got mine done, McGaughy's 4/7, but I'm probably bringing the back up another inch to 6.

 

attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

Looks good...but you need to pull that brake cable back a bit so it doesn't bother me anymore... LOL!!! BTW I think your right raise the rear a little, rake looks tough IMO.

 

RT

Edited by 07Softail
Darth_Vader Enthusiast

Darth_Vader

Posted
Posted

Looks good...but you need to pull that brake cable back a bit so it doesn't bother me anymore... LOL!!! BTW I think your right raise the rear a little, rake looks tough IMO.

 

RT

Good catch! I was so worn out last night from doing the rear I just dropped it and went on. Yeah, thinking about bringing the front up 1/2" too.

Digger3 Enthusiast

Digger3

Posted
Posted (edited)

McGaughys or anyone else for that matter should say to bend the factory rods. I told Mcgaughys that almost 6 months ago. Bending the rods does not keep the same "sweep" with the sensors as the ride height changes.

Hmmm, not sure. The kit they list does include shock extenders & sensor rods. http://www.mcgaughystore.com/2015-gmc-sierra-denali-1500-2wd-4wd-2-rear-leveling-kit/

 

2015 Sierra Denali 1500 2wd/4wd 2" Rear Leveling Kit

 

This Kit Is Designed To Level The Rear Of Your 2015 GMC Sierra Denali 1500 2wd/4wd Truck. This will lower the rear of the truck 2".

Includes-

2" Rear Drop Shackles

Rear Ride Height Sensor Arms (Pair)

Rear Shock Extenders

 

Notes-Works With Magaride suspension

 

I do personally want to drop & level out the rear, but at the same time want to add bags for when I'm pinned up to the TT.

 

Which spindles, leafs & shackles did you use Dan? What did you do for adjustable links? Is that Denali you dropped 2WD or 4WD?

Edited by Digger3
sprayed99 Enthusiast

sprayed99

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hmmm, not sure. The kit they list does include shock extenders & sensor rods. http://www.mcgaughystore.com/2015-gmc-sierra-denali-1500-2wd-4wd-2-rear-leveling-kit/

 

2015 Sierra Denali 1500 2wd/4wd 2" Rear Leveling Kit

 

This Kit Is Designed To Level The Rear Of Your 2015 GMC Sierra Denali 1500 2wd/4wd Truck. This will lower the rear of the truck 2".

Includes-

2" Rear Drop Shackles

Rear Ride Height Sensor Arms (Pair)

Rear Shock Extenders

 

Notes-Works With Magaride suspension

 

I do personally want to drop & level out the rear, but at the same time want to add bags for when I'm pinned up to the TT.

 

Which spindles, leafs & shackles did you use Dan? What did you do for adjustable links? Is that Denali you dropped 2WD or 4WD?

2WD and it is done with McGaughys stuff. The leafs are the same from 99-15. I made the adjustable links I don't know what more you want to know about the links. McGaughys got the idea about the rods when I told them what I did. The sad part is they made fixed rods which we all know the manufacturing tolerances for suspension is a joke so a fixed rod isn't ideal.

 

Their rods also require you to pull apart your factory rods which isn't a good idea. They are a snap fit and aren't made to be pulled back apart. The plastic end links are very fragile and I will bet they will have multiple cases of people screwing them up.

Edited by sprayed99
sprayed99 Enthusiast

sprayed99

Posted
Posted

2WD and it is done with McGaughys stuff. The leafs are the same from 99-15. I made the adjustable links I don't know what more you want to know about the links. McGaughys got the idea about the rods when I told them what I did. The sad part is they made fixed rods which we all know the manufacturing tolerances for suspension is a joke so a fixed rod isn't ideal.

 

Their rods also require you to pull apart your factory rods which isn't a good idea. They are a snap fit and aren't made to be pulled back apart. The plastic end links are very fragile and I will bet they will have multiple cases of people screwing them up.

I just wish they would have said "thanks" for pointing them in the right direction. Back when Mike started the company he consulted with my fathers best friend on his Tri-Five Chevy parts. Most people don't know this, but Mike started McGaughys years ago from making small parts for 55-57 Chevys out of his garage and selling them off a small advertisment in hotrod magazine. I just wish his kid/s had the same values as he does.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Atlas · Posted

      I only have a few of the ACDelco blue remaining. One or two of the (old, old) ACDelco Professional boxes, and a couple of the newer style GM boxes with the simulcast in Chinese along with English. FWIW they've all been pretty good, regardless of where they are made, and in 20 years I've never had a problem with an e-core filter.   Now I have a couple of the "A" series in my home inventory. They come in a plain white box with the GM hologram sticker and model information. Have not installed one yet, want to use up my oldest inventory first.
    • asilverblazer
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • parthery
      BAK MX4 EZ-Lift Install and Review

      By parthery · Posted

      I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
    • KARNUT
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Thanks not an answer 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...