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First off---of all the trucks I have had in years past (quite a few were posted on gm-trucks years ago), this has been my ultimate favorite. Sooo, with that said, and after purchasing this $48,000 truck (!!!!!!!!!!), I think I can afford to nick-pic. :happysad:

 

Seems I went through a stiff ride issue before on an earlier truck in the forum here, and Rancho 9000 shocks were the solution. But my memories are nothing like they used to be. Rancho claims a low setting gives one the OEM dampening rate, but I want a softer ride.

 

So, here's the issue, albeit one that I can toss if the solution is just too elusive. Other than removing a leaf spring, is there a way to soften the ride to my SLT? Leaves nothing for softening the front end suspension.

 

I have a stretch of road that is about 11 miles of 1/2" or so of expansion joints. The ride certainly gets old. When I get off this road to a smoother one, all is well. My 2011 was affected by this awful road combo as well, but not anywhere near as what my 2014 is. The truck is a Texas Edition which has off-road shock stuff, can't recall the exact wording.

 

Are the shocks for the cheaper trims a bit tamer? What about for the Denali? The advertisements refer to its ride. Could they be a direct drop-in? To compensate for any towing capacities that would be lost, I would possibly install Firestone Ride-Rite airbags. I used these on a little GMC Colorado/Canyon, and were great.

 

Thanks for any comments...

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I agree with checking your tire pressure. On my 2011 Silverado which I bought new the ride really softened after 10k miles or so. These trucks are extremely tight when new and need time to break in..

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The tires are at 32 and the door sez that's where they belong. I was thinking with their being the Goodyears and are street rated, that they'd be softer to begin with. Not a fan of these and used to use Duellers ages ago. Just that my 2011 rode softer. Basically, it was a twin to my 2014, with the exception of the updates for a new model.

 

I agree about the 10k statement...

 

In the meantime, I may dig the old message mine and see if I can find why Rancho 9000s were a big topic about ten years ago.

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Yea if you have the 20's lower the pressure down to 32-35. I was running running mine at 44 (max pressure is 50 something). And it was terrible. Lowered it down toe 38 and its considerably better.


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Well.... you know what I am going to say. Bilstein 5100s as soon as available. Michelins when you get tired of the goods....20s, less sidewall, will ride a little harsh compared to 18s.

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I assume you have the GY LT2's? They came stock on my last two Denali's, and Bridgestone Duelers helped a lot. Just a note, my '07 SD was a much harder ride than my same equipped '11. GM obviously changed something but didn't change any codes or anything. But I had one of the first '07 SD, so maybe they made a quick change without telling anyone?

Since these CC vehicles are now many peoples sedans, GM should put their mag ride shocks in. Add a couple simple buttons and we could dial in what we want.

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Well.... you know what I am going to say. Bilstein 5100s as soon as available.

I went to TireRack and used "2011" rather than "2014" for the year of my truck. I found Bilstein 5100s and this is a clip from the descriptor: "...The piston head design allows independent tuning of the compression and rebound damping forces to provide optimum ride comfort and performance without compromise...."

 

I know this is probably more opinion and bias than anything, but do you feel the Bilstein 5100s offer better comfort than the Rancho monotubes that are on the truck now? When the time comes, and if I do change the Ranchos out, I'll certainly enter "2014", but I was just searching...

 

 

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Irymal, not just bias. I have run Bils since my '72 280 Z. Have run the yellows on my 90 sub since purchased in 89. Yes. the 5100s are very good. I have always run Bils when possible and the 5100s went on my 09 SLT the same month I got it. Really improved my Z71 ride with more control, less rear hop on rough corners and less harsh. I would bet the ranchos are just built to GM specs.

 

Good shocks like good tires is just a truck mod to me, that is done as soon as possible. I do not have a '14 but have driven two with 4 WD and z71. I felt some harshness and was thinking and told my friend/sales guy I thought Bils would improve the quality of the ride. And of course tires. I do tires first then shocks. But some like to ride as bought tell wear and replacement comes into play.

 

You can also raise the front end with the 5100s to level the truck. Enjoy your new truck!

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Thanks, STex.... Not interested in raising the truck or any height adjustments. Farmers around here would look at it and wonder what was wrong. grinnn I've done lift kits, body lifts, torque bolt adjustments, etc., with many trucks in the past. And I'm the dude who figured how to get the DIC display to work on the early 2K trucks and posted instructions here in the forum. I guess about 2003 or so.

 

Now, I'm just wanting to enjoy this wonderful truck. Actually, there's not much I'm going to do to the truck. I just wanted a 4-WD, appointed very nicely, and comfortable to ride in. There will be pasture stuff, but even that is an improved pasture. Will occasionally pull a tractor on a trailer. Happy to have the 4-WD. Even a nice 2-WD pickup with an E-80 locker will just sit and spin in the pasture if the hay grass is wet.

 

Other than the stiff ride, I'm exceedingly happy with the truck. Do you think the Bilsteins can make the expansion joints a bit more tolerable? I asked the dealer this morning and he said, having 20s is one problem, that it would help if I had 18 inchers. I told him if some city kid wanted 20" wheels and he just bought a new truck with 18 inchers, might work out a swap.

Tires are another story as well. I need to do some homework on all of this. Income tax refund might accelerate a change.

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If the tires are LT's you may be able to switch for a P series tire that has a lower weight rating and therefore a more compliant sidewall.

 

The manufacturers must install tires that correspond to the weight rating of the truck. If you're not going to load it there is no reason on to run a lower weight capacity tire.

 

The tire pressure rating on the door is also selected for the loaded weight the tire at max vehicle rating. If the actual load on the tire is less, there is no reason not to run lower pressure.

 

(The max pressure on the tire is for the max rated load of the tire, NOT the max rated load of the truck)

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