2014+ Power Tailgate Lock installed

Back in a Bowtie · July 8, 2016

My pop and lock stopped working for a bit and i got very frustrated. I popped open the access pannel to look at the connection to the solenoid and it looked suspect so i re did the connection. fixed it for a day. problems again the next day so i pop the door trim and check with a multi meter and im getting full power up there. Worked my way back and found that the blue wire in the headlight connector was hanging on by a thread. Cut it out and made a permanent connection and shes been running like a champ ever since.

BigBadSierra · July 8, 2016

My pop and lock stopped working for a bit and i got very frustrated. I popped open the access pannel to look at the connection to the solenoid and it looked suspect so i re did the connection. fixed it for a day. problems again the next day so i pop the door trim and check with a multi meter and im getting full power up there. Worked my way back and found that the blue wire in the headlight connector was hanging on by a thread. Cut it out and made a permanent connection and shes been running like a champ ever since.

I just made a harness and soldered everything never had an issue. It's worth taking the extra time.

fondupot · July 8, 2016

Mine did that. The striker for the right side of the tailgate came out of alignment. I loosened it and adjusted it back to the original spot tightened it back up and it been fine. Look to see if your tailgate is closing flush.

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No not yet, I haven't had a chance to look at it. Gonna try this weekend. Thanks for your post tho.

Madcow2020 · July 24, 2016

No not yet, I haven't had a chance to look at it. Gonna try this weekend. Thanks for your post tho.

Did you get a chance to check your tailgate alignment?

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Viktorrocks15 · July 24, 2016

Bump.

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loghead · September 28, 2016

Has anybody tried getting the factory oem kit and install it from the 2016 trucks? I would think it is the same set up.

cbrsilv15 · September 28, 2016

It's different. The parts will be waaay more than the $100 pop n lock. The oem parts will still require cutting and splicing wires on the 14-15 trucks. Not worth it.

GMMediumDutyMQ · September 28, 2016

Has anybody tried getting the factory oem kit and install it from the 2016 trucks? I would think it is the same set up.

There IS NO factory OEM kit for this. And there's no easy way to retrofit the MY16 parts to a MY14-15 truck that doesn't have the option.

Some here are apparently hell-bent on trying, but the long and short of it is -- even if you did get all the gate parts and pigtail, you'd still have to repin and rewire half of the main body harness.

It's way, way more work and way, WAY more cost to try and do it, and the resulting product won't feel any more or less OEM. It also won't have the warranty that Pop and Lock offers on its kit, for what it's worth.

TL;DR -- just buy the Pop & Lock kit. I assure you, if you take your time and do things patiently, you will have no trouble installing it. There are plenty of resources both on this forum and on YouTube that clearly show how straightforward it is to install.

And yes, splicing/soldering the Pop & Lock harness to the lock circuit is ideal, but even just using the included T-taps properly (i.e. using pliers to apply sufficient force to fully seat/ lock the splice part of the connector instead of trying to do it by hand) works fine. That's what I did on my truck and I've had zero issues in the year-plus it's been on the truck.

Rock1500 · September 28, 2016

I have the pop lock and love it. It's bullshit it didn't come standard by gm ( when I bought 2014)

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cmysstailights · September 28, 2016

Def must do. Thx

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ridethedesert · October 18, 2016

Is my truck the only one that doesn't have a second panel underneath the driver kick panel? I wondered why my carpet always was pulling towards the center of the truck and exposing the paint underneath. I bet mine didn't get it from the factory, someone forgot it. Also I have an SLE, not sure if it's something they put on the SLT's that may have extra wires? Just curious if anyone else didn't have it as well.

GMMediumDutyMQ · October 18, 2016

Is my truck the only one that doesn't have a second panel underneath the driver kick panel? I wondered why my carpet always was pulling towards the center of the truck and exposing the paint underneath. I bet mine didn't get it from the factory, someone forgot it. Also I have an SLE, not sure if it's something they put on the SLT's that may have extra wires? Just curious if anyone else didn't have it as well.

The second panel isn't under the kick panel (i.e. immediately left of pedals), but under the driver's sill (i.e. lower edge of door opening).

My '14 SLE had both the sill panel and the second plastic panel below it, the latter primarily serving as a shield for the cab wiring harness.

Should not be trim-dependent.

Edited October 18, 2016 by GMMediumDutyMQ

anonymouse · December 27, 2016

Just finished installation. Took me a little longer due to being very meticulous about routing the wiring harness. I used a different method of connecting the wires though. I routed my wires all the way to the engine compartment and went in through the large grommet under the brake booster. Then I connected the blue and green wire to the grey/green and brown/yellow coming from the x6 bcm connector(pink) just to the right of e-brake pedal. Pins 2 and 4 as per http://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf page 155 and 156.

What I did was skim a very small amount of wire insulation off and soldered the wires together.

To me it seemed a lot easier then taking apart the door sill.

edit:

Oh yeah, 1 click of the remote unlocks the drivers door only, and 2 clicks unlocks the rest including the tailgate

Thank you for this. Just installed the unit I got for Christmas on my 2014 High Country.

Your methods was a LOT easier than messing with the sill plate. I went into the cab from the grommet under the driver side foot area as shown in the youtube video.

I had no idea what a BCM looked like or know where to find it. So for those like me, it is a small black box with 6 rectangular wire harnesses plugged into it right above the brake pedal area under the instrument cluster. The pink connector is plugged into the second position from the drivers side door. Since it is next to impossible to crane your head in there to look at it, what I did was take a photo of it with the phone held by the brake pedal, which gave me a good look at the unit. Then it was easy to unplug the pink harness and connect the wires as described.

I did not splice into the wires. I just tinned the ends of the blue and green harness wires with solder. This made them into stiff pins which I squeeze inserted directly into the pink connector into the same holes as the existing wires. To ensure that it does not come out, I used a wire tie to tightly hold the new wire to the existing harness and create a small wire arc to maintain pressure into the harness holes. It works like a charm, and no splicing was required.

Overall the job took me about 4 hours, but I took my time and did it really slowly and carefully.

Another tool I found handy was a fish tape to fish the wire over the gas tank on the underside.

Sadly, looking under the truck I realize I have a good amount of frame rust. This despite taking it in for the rust treatment TSB last year. Either they did a terrible job, or this thing is just designed to rust.

dburns050 · February 15, 2017

I just installed mine but blew a fuse or something. None of my door locks work. Anybody know what fuse it could be?

Edit: Not a blown fuse. Maybe bad connection. Haven't figured it out yet.

Edited February 15, 2017 by dburns050

dburns050 · February 15, 2017

I guess I got a bad lock. If I unhook the wires my door locks work. Anybody else get a bad one. And the grey wire is about half the size of the tan/yellow, correct?

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