Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Line-X?
Actually it is a Scorpion a friend of mine has been doing them a while and I couldn't pass the deal up. We have a line x in our work truck and honestly this is thicker and I like the texture better.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 4/15/2018 at 5:07 PM, 6.2Midnight said:

So, you have a source to tune the 2017 8 speed trans, without pulling the TCM?

The 2017 TCM has to be removed, swapped with a 2015 TCM (which I have), then Black Bear is going to tune it. I'm currently getting the supercharger tune fine-tuned though, so the TCM swap is on hold.

Posted

Pulled the trigger on the Diodes Dynamanics  2014-2015 GMC Sierra Switchback DRL LED Boards.

Also got the Klearz lens to replace the amber lens. Got the Morimoto xd35 HID kit too!

 

gmc_sierra_switchback_white_side_compare.jpg

2014-sierra-headlight-markers2-800x550.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
Pulled the trigger on the Diodes Dynamanics  2014-2015 GMC Sierra Switchback DRL LED Boards.

Also got the Klearz lens to replace the amber lens. Got the Morimoto xd35 HID kit too!

 

gmc_sierra_switchback_white_side_compare.jpg.d3bf4ebf7ef798f3b98e994b2d1c4cdc.jpg

2014-sierra-headlight-markers2-800x550.thumb.jpg.6243ab84bc549b466b214f0a6144e4ac.jpg

I did the same thing but got the smoked lenses and painted the headlights black with the morimoto HID headlights and morimoto LED fog lamps

cfc0b663e97105f1c73ebb905c511ec2.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Got my LTZ tail lights back last night and got them installed. Love the way they look. Now I need to get the high mount brake light smoked, its driving me crazy ddff765d2efdf4a443afb28bf01cd9e3.jpg284087ee37b519f63d4df8eb36992864.jpg026f846244e35fb5334d23e4824ce6bb.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
2 hours ago, SuperAllTerrain said:

I did the same thing but got the smoked lenses and painted the headlights black with the morimoto HID headlights and morimoto LED fog lamps

cfc0b663e97105f1c73ebb905c511ec2.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks sick!!

I did the morimoto fogs and was not happy with them to I got the rough country led kit and man what a difference that made.

Did you do your lights or farm it out?

Posted
23 hours ago, sk said:

Mine are quiet.  Just a little "thud" when they fully retract.  Make sure you have them adjusted per the instructions and the hinges aren't fighting each other.

 

If you want cheap but bright lights lots of people have just used these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-Super-Bright-Lights-COB-DRL-Fog-Driving-Lamp-Waterproof-DC-12V-White-Car-LED/282068631441?epid=1673777219&hash=item41ac99bf91:g:nvsAAOSwepJXYMaG&vxp=mtr

 

I love my AMP's same thing just a little thud when fully retracted

Posted
19 hours ago, ChristopherDB said:

I purchased those same lights at the recommendation of a few other posters because they were cheap and I thought why not. I received and installed them today and will be ripping them off tomorrow. Unfortunately they were just way too cheap. The adhesive wasn't the black 3m automation tape, it was just the basic white tape which won't last long. One of the lights was 5000k and the other was over 6000k so they didn't match, and the black aluminum frame was separating from the LED strip. The wires were also thinner than my thinning hair. In the picture you can see the left is more yellow than the right. Still looking at other options if anyone had recommendations.

 

Oh by the way, thank you for letting me know about the adjustment. I checked and the boards were hitting on the LED that came with the boards so once I removed those LEDs it was fine.

 

IMG_20180417_200217.jpg

 

Yeah I was worried they were too cheap to so I never tried them.  Plus I don't want really bright lights.  For now I still have the purple AMP ones but will eventually swap them out when I find the right ones (around 4500K and not real bright).

 

Check all the adjustments.  Basically you need to loosen all the bolts and slide the boards around, then open/close, then do it some more.  Eventually you'll get them adjusted to where they move smoothly and the hinges aren't working against each other.  They also should close just short of the LED pods but never touch them.  Once you get all that adjustment done tighten everything back up and you should be good to go! 

Posted
Well it’s taken a solid month but my sheet metal crew finally finished my custom skid plate. Made out of 24 gauge stainless steel, type 304. This design is meant to look just like the SDHQ skid plate and come in way under budget [emoji4]

It’s made out of one piece of flat metal, bent and cut to fit. Weight about 10-20 lbs. Tow hooks cutouts and all, every edge has a hem on it. Got the truck up to about 95+ MPH and not one noise on the highway.

Made 1 small mock-up, 1 test mock up out of 26 gauge galvanized metal, and then this final.

I scrubbed it down last night with a metal brush, primed, and painted flat black. Blends in nicely. Best $100 I’ve ever spent. Beats the $500+ prices I’ve seen out there.

37065a36f739dbb0659b212e3251915e.jpg85e411cbba45e6827b8c2fb03cf74185.jpg
Got any more pics of your truck? Looks like mine.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Posted

Here's what I did today... Scratched the crap out of my driver side window as I was cleaning up bird crap with a terry towel. Bird must have shit out a diamond.

00000PORTRAIT_00000_BURST20180418185521173.thumb.jpg.6ed8c1b8880d60b3e28b63936d5769e3.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
Posted
21 hours ago, Mileguru said:

The 2017 TCM has to be removed, swapped with a 2015 TCM (which I have), then Black Bear is going to tune it. I'm currently getting the supercharger tune fine-tuned though, so the TCM swap is on hold.

Very interested to see where this goes, please keep us updated...

Posted
3 hours ago, ChristopherDB said:

Here's what I did today... Scratched the crap out of my driver side window as I was cleaning up bird crap with a terry towel. Bird must have shit out a diamond.

00000PORTRAIT_00000_BURST20180418185521173.thumb.jpg.6ed8c1b8880d60b3e28b63936d5769e3.jpg

Sorry to see that. Most folks don't  know that birds grind up their food in their gizzards since they don't have teeth to chew. In order to do this they have to swallow small rocks and gravel which in turn come out with the other "waste". As you found out the hard way never wipe off bird droppings dry. Use plenty of water out of a hose to blast as much as you can off of the surface then use light pressure with a soft very soap saturated rag the clean the rest off. Then rinse the heck out of the rag before you use it on anything else !!

  • Like 1
Posted

Took the snows off and installed my XB LEDs while I had the fronts off to give me some more room to get under the bumper. Can't believe the difference. Had a license plate bulb out too so I put a pair of Zevos in there.

20180418_202234.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, FarmKid92 said:

Took the snows off and installed my XB LEDs while I had the fronts off to give me some more room to get under the bumper. Can't believe the difference. Had a license plate bulb out too so I put a pair of Zevos in there.

20180418_202234.jpg

do you have hids in the front aswell? would like to see a front view 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...