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What have you done to your K2 today?


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2 hours ago, SeekAndDestroy said:

Wow man, that's impressive! Music to my ears, and wicked power numbers. Great job

Thank you thank you. Sadly engine and trans is coming back out. The stock 6L80 couldn’t hold the power. It’s now slipping all gears. The trans and converter is gonna take a visit to circle D for level 4 built. And the engine is coming back out for a Katech oil pump since the OEM one is acting up.  Good times…. Hopefully next year or so it’ll get some more fuel and get to see 4 digits!

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Finally installed a home made intake and catch cans. The air box size was increased by as much as I could make it higher and the MAF tube size is now 3.85 inches inside clean versus the stock 3.45 inch one with target air vanes inside.  The vacuum lines to the catch cans are 3/8 ID air hose which is strong enough to support vacuum type pressure.  I tuned it some today and I can definitively say that it offers more horsepower potential than the stock air tube. It is quiet enough for normal throttle but it is very loud when I get on it. But not loud enough for it to overpower the sound of my tires spinning 😉

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Sent the trans out for a Circle D level 4 rebuilt along with the triple disk converter for a refresh (clutches are starting to slip). The driveshaft was also missing a weight so that got sent back to performance driveline for a rebalance. 

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My ‘17 DCSB Z71 (white truck below) had LED bed rail lighting, and that’s about the only thing I miss about that POS. My ‘16 CCSB lacked this feature. Only recently did I realize how EASY it is to retrofit, with the factory plug and wiring already ran to the stern. $56 and a day later on Amazon, the kit arrived. Installation was cake, but did take a few trials to figure out the best way to route the wires. With the tonneau cover on, the upper cargo light is usually useless; not any more! 😁

 

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I just installed a Gen V Linkswell.
I like it, I have a wireless dongle for CarPlay and use it to connect my phone. Also, I can watch YouTube videos or NetFlix, but I never do that when driving.
That's why I use CarPlay when driving.
 

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Edited by MikeBMW
clarification and grammar correction
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I decided to swap out the Morimoto tail lights with a set of Alpharex tail lights.
They require reusing the old backup bulbs, whereas the Moromotos had their own LEDs.
Really, I just wanted a change but the old bulbs were too dim so I went with some Diode Dynamics LED reverse lights.
The difference is obvious.
 

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Finished painting the dull gray exterior trim on my 2015 black.  Took a lot of time since I had to work it in around work.  It is bit more gloss than I wanted but it looks pretty damn good to me.  Now just need to get the bumpers properly color matched.

 

Original color: (I didn't paint the side steps)

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Comparison/Contrast:

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Final product:

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Finally upgraded my rear shocks. I went with the Bilstein 4600. I went with these because they have been recommended as a decent choice for towing. And even though I have the RC 2" level on front, I'm still stock height on the rear. I figure at about 6 years old and 74k in miles, it was time to change them out. It was stupid easy. I sprayed some penetrating oil on bottom nut and threads and the air impact wrench took that right off. I used a 21mm socket but didn't have a 21mm wrench. I did have a  13/16" wrench which worked perfectly. Top one only needs the bolt removed, no nut. One thing to mention is that the Bilstein shocks don't come compressed so I mounted the top mount first and muscled the shock into position. After pushing shock upwards to compress it, a screwdriver under the bottom eyelet held it until I got the bolt back in. It took all of about 10 mins to get both sides done. Now I have to decide on which struts to go with. My choices are Bilstein 5100 or Rancho RS999949. I'm leaning towards the Ranchos because they are a complete strut and fully adjustable without having to remove. Either way, I can ditch the RC spacer and still be leveled...Screenshot_20220824-165158_Gallery.thumb.jpg.fa54bf4ddd61ed3d57500b8b77a3ba60.jpg

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16 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

It was stupid easy. I sprayed some penetrating oil on bottom nut and threads and the air impact wrench took that right off. I used a 21mm socket but didn't have a 21mm wrench. I did have a  13/16" wrench which worked perfectly. Top one only needs the bolt removed, no nut. One thing to mention is that the Bilstein shocks don't come compressed so I mounted the top mount first and muscled the shock into position. After pushing shock upwards to compress it, a screwdriver under the bottom eyelet held it until I got the bolt back in. It took all of about 10 mins to get both sides done.

 

Wow, surprised to hear it's so easy. Thanks for the write up!

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38 minutes ago, Turtl3Up said:

 

Wow, surprised to hear it's so easy. Thanks for the write up!

I didn't even have to jack it up or remove the tires. I just shimmied under the truck and got it done. As you can see, the lower mount is very accessible. I was worried about reaching the top mounting bolt but there was also more than plenty of space to get the air impact wrench up there. I didn't even need to drop the spare. 

Edited by mikeyk101
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Swapped out the cdt- es-02a widebands for the Unity 7.5 widebands. Crossed @400hz/ 24db slope. I am currently trying them in pods and really liking the response. Little eq needed vs in stock locations. I would suggest anyone who put their dash speakers in the stock locations give some 2" pvc caps a shot. Night and day<plus you gain like 4-6dB in volume and clarity.

 

Next up tweets for a pinch of sparkle.

 

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Edited by Snowcamo
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I recently got back into running a radio in my vehicle. My 1st radio was a Uniden Pro520XL I bought in 1987. I am now running a President Andy II FCC with a President Iowa antenna. Getting the mount sorted was interesting. I have a 2015 Silverado and while looking for a fender mount I found many listings for 2010-2018. In my mind, this made no sense. Body styles on GM trucks run from 2007-2013, 2014-2018, and 2019-Current. I found the proper mount from Rugged Radios but with a 3/8 NMO hole. I ordered that up and drilled the hole to 1/2". I am running a Procomm 12' Terminator series cable with an FME end.
I went with the Andy II FCC because President has a good reputation and I needed a smaller radio to fit the opening left when I removed the fold-down pocket from the dash. I mounted the radio in that opening, which only required me to drill two small holes, for the bracket, that can not be seen if I ever want to take the radio out and got back to stock. I installed a combo USB/HDMI port where that 12v power outlet used to be, for the Pioneer in-dash. I tapped the unused 12v power outlet wiring behind the panel and routed it through the slot for the pocket. I wired it with some Anderson Powerpole connectors and covered the wire with PET expandable braided sleeving for added chaff protection. I am a mobile electronics installer by trade so my setup is tied into my stereo. I ran a mono 3.5mm/RCA adapter up to the radio and then used an RCA splitter into the radio. I can now set my radio to AV In and my truck's stereo is my external speaker. I can turn the CB volume all the way up and control the volume through the steering wheel controls for the stereo. I can also use Android Auto for navigation while listening to the CB or NOAA Weather. The antenna installation was easy I routed into the cabin through the upfitter provision in the main wiring harness grommet. The SWRs were low right out of the box clear across from channel 1 to 40. So far I really like this radio and setup.

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