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What have you done to your K2 today?


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Ordered a set of LMZ Platinum 45w LED's for my high beams. They were 160 a set last week, guess they marked them down for the weekend plus 5% off so I got them for $130 to my door. Been holding back on pulling the trigger on them since I'll be installing my HID's when I get the truck back from the body shop, I can just take care of these too while the headlight is off.

 

Also reordered the wheels I bought the other day off eBay through Amazon, saved $60 even after taxes. Plus they are Prime shipping, so I should have them before my trip to PA this weekend

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Ordered a set of LMZ Platinum 45w LED's for my high beams. They were 160 a set last week, guess they marked them down for the weekend plus 5% off so I got them for $130 to my door. Been holding back on pulling the trigger on them since I'll be installing my HID's when I get the truck back from the body shop, I can just take care of these too while the headlight is off.

 

Also reordered the wheels I bought the other day off eBay through Amazon, saved $60 even after taxes. Plus they are Prime shipping, so I should have them before my trip to PA this weekend

Link to the lights please. I'm looking for high, lows and fogs.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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Link to the lights please. I'm looking for high, lows and fogs.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

These would be for your high beams (I went with 5000k):

 

http://www.vleds.com/9005-ultra-lmz.html

 

These would be for your low beams (not sure if it is recommended that you use the 45w LED in the projectors or if the 25w would be better):

 

http://www.vleds.com/h11-ultra-lmz.html

 

These for the fogs:

 

http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/5202-9009/5202-lmz.html

 

Says right on the page that they will not fit the 2014+ GM trucks

 

I read somewhere about how the DRL is setup on these trucks that you should run an HID kit with the capacitor for the low beams because of it. That's why I have one HID kit and one LED kit going in. Plus, the low beams are always on at night while driving. So my high beams will be instant on and off with no time needed to "re- heat" after flicking the high beams off. That's how I had it setup in my 02 Silverado, kind of a pain but if you only kept them off for 5 seconds they would be right back where they were.

 

Oh, and for the low beams I got some LED direct plug n play bulbs. Doubt they will put out anything close to stock on the road, but at this point it will be more for looks so the color isn't off in the front

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After shelling out for the BFG A/T KO2s a few weeks back, I pulled the trigger on a set of Bilstein 5100s, especially after the tire shop pointed out a few of my OEM units in dire need of replacement after 62,000 miles. Tackled the install yesterday. Took about roughly 3-4 hours. Probably could have shaved some time using air tools, but oh well. Used an OTC wall-mount spring compressor for the front struts, and I'm glad I did -- even with a "bridge" to compress the upper spring seat, it took a lot of muscle to compress things enough to get the strut out.

28865264884_b8545c5be4_c.jpg

I went with the first ring up from stock ride height, which adds about .75" to the front ride height. To me, this is enough reduction of the stock rake (I no longer drag the air dam on curbs/ parking berms). Also, it's probably about as tall as you'd want to go installation wise without knocking out an UCA ball joint in addition to the sway bar link. Taller you go, the more room you need...

Taking it in for an alignment tomorrow morning. Thus far, I like the ride -- firmer than before, but better dampened.

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I'd get a 3M eraser wheel, especially if you're taking off molding...will be done in 5 minutes...and if you're like me always better to have the right tool for the job!

 

 

 

What product did you use to get the letters off and what tool?

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this past weekend I had to change out my passenger side headlight lamp...why oh why does Gm make the simplest things more complicated. Had to remove whole air box and disconnect mass air flow sensor. Most of that wasn't really that bad...hardest part was getting the lower air box back into bottom of engine bay. they have these gormon or whatever snaps. (was pain in the ass lining them up)

 

anyway everything went off without a hitch. should of just put my HIDS in but whatever.

 

only question is...when I started truck back up the check engine light came on (solid no blinking) so I disconnected negative battery terminal for thirty seconds and restarted truck.

 

so far so good. not too sure if anyone has had that experience before? everything is OEM.

Edited by Sbaer2012
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this past weekend I had to change out my passenger side headlight lamp...why oh why does Gm make the simplest things more complicated. Had to remove whole air box and disconnect mass air flow sensor. Most of that wasn't really that bad...hardest part was getting the lower air box back into bottom of engine bay. they have these gormon or whatever snaps. (was pain in the ass lining them up)

 

anyway everything went off without a hitch. should of just put my HIDS in but whatever.

 

only question is...when I started truck back up the check engine light came on (solid no blinking) so I disconnected negative battery terminal for thirty seconds and restarted truck.

 

so far so good. not too sure if anyone has had that experience before? everything is OEM.

Did you turn truck on at all with the MAF sensor disconnected?
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If you need any accessories, would love to help. We have couple of toys for you at www.eTruckGear.com and offer honest service ( with 100 % positive Amazon feedback we try hard to be there for the customer)

Stop by and take a look. Tonno Pro is a nice brand to look at. Not that well known but super quality and low price. We are also Weathertech approved, meaning warranty applies as opposed to purchases on Amazon. Don't like Weathertech? We have Husky or Maxliner. Amp Research, Thule, Warn, Rhino Rack. Will be glad to help.

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