Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I hear ya man, ya I was all about 4.5 - 6 inch lift as soon as I snagged my rig as well lol. I'm really glad I just went with a 2.5 lvl. I have young kids and pull a 21' scout all over the planet. So a lol for me was more practical. As for your wheel and tire dilemma, I am running a 20x9 0 offset with a 295/55R20 Ridge Grappler. Actual measurements are 32 7/8" tall and 12" wide. I get only slight rubbing on the plastic at the back of the fender at full lock with a touch of articulation. My setup sits as flush as can be with only the sidewall outside the fender. I like this because the water base paint that the EPA now requires will vacate rather quickly without fender flares lol. I hope this helps brother.

Thanks Frank!
 
I've been doing more research and it seems like a 6" lift might be more trouble than its worth, mostly because i have a boat i tow often every summer. I'm finding i'd need to do something with the gears and axles or something, thats all brand new territory for me.
 
I originally started down this road when i wanted to level the truck because it wasnt super expensive, but then i found a motofab 3" lift in the front with a 2" lift in the back for the same price as the level i was going to get, but found that was maxing out the upper control arms and started looking at a 3-4 inch lift, but found 6" lifts were a little more, but need steering stabilizers and leafs and all sorts of other stuff.
 
So now i'm thinking a 3-4 inch lift. Will i have the same issues with this as i would a 6" lift?
 
And back to wheels and tires, anyone using 20x9 or 20x10 Fuel Assaults on a 2017 Silverado 1500? Which one, which offset, and how far do they stick out passed the fender? Are spacers needed? Which tires are you running?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted

20x12 moto metal -44 offset

33x12.50 Atturo

6in lift

Rubs at full turn on inner plastic only when backing up on a uneven surface

plastic below front bumper was trimmed a little

25488119_1762676010418988_5830153173045687074_o.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

qoYXao6.jpg2018 Silverado Custom Crew 5.3 at stock height, will be lowering the rear soon to level it out.  New 22" reps as of 4 hours ago on 305 40 22s

 

Edited by Camaroboi13
pic not showing
  • Like 2
Posted

Just for poops and giggles I picked up a set of stock 18" wheels with some worn out Goodyear SRA's. Took off the stock 20" LTZ wheels that had Fallen Wildpeak ATW3's 275/60/20's in a P rated XL load rating. I was convinced the 20" wheels were part the culprit of my rough ride. 

Now my plan is to use my Bora 1.5" spacers and get some new tires, either 32" or 33". By going down to a 18" I figured I could smooth out the ride with more sidewall. Let me tell ya that these worn out 265/65/18's ride super nice. Way better than the 20's. They don't look as nice but after feeling the difference I don't care. 

I'm actually hoping to trade someone my 20's for stock 17's or get some Method 17's. You guys with your 20" and even some 22" wheels sure make your trucks look tough but I realize it's not for me lol. 

  • Like 1
Posted

2b99b8e32df121d0df35f8057a9b3f40.png
37s RBP and 24s Snowflakes


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

My current setup.

Stock 20's with BFG ko2 275 60 20 with 2" Bora spacers. d7a048b7e4ba47db7063490098e7c5c4.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
5 hours ago, Zrodie21 said:

2b99b8e32df121d0df35f8057a9b3f40.png
37s RBP and 24s Snowflakes


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Those look like Honeycombs, not Snowflakes.  Nice ride either way brotha

Posted (edited)

2014 Silverado (dirty) tungsten metallic

 

2.5" front level, nothing in back.

 

18x9 +12 Pulse P16 wheels. Made by Voxx. Also sold as the GFX TR6 when I believe.

IMG_20180511_162344.jpg

Edited by Jaycreek7908
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

For comparison........Truck on the left has a 2.5" levelling kit with a 2" rear block and is on 275/65-20 tires.  Mine has a 2" levelling kit and 285/70-17 tires.  

 

80-__d15f7ca5271c64ab924575e7732c3ca4097

  • Like 2
Posted

Anyone done any clear bra/film on the lower front doors or lower rear fender when going with a wider wheels/tires? Concerned about rock chips

Posted

Bilstein 5100 set at max, factory 18” wheels with 33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
0eb5540118b662a60ac6e5f4ef783ca9.heic
6dfd21b737d76b235073e28e022b5ebe.heic


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Just got new tires, Falken Wildpeak AT3w's, 305/55/20. So far, have about 400 miles on them and they ride great! Rubs only at full lock when in reverse, nothing major and I haven't trimmed or tied anything back. 

New tires_Falken Wildpeak AT3s_305-55-20_04.jpg

New tires_Falken Wildpeak AT3s_305-55-20_03.jpg

New tires_Falken Wildpeak AT3s_305-55-20_02.jpg

New tires_Falken Wildpeak AT3s_305-55-20_01.jpg

Posted

From what I can find everyone running a 285/55-20 has paired it with a front level. Can this size be pulled off with stock suspension? A 285/45-22 fits stock ride height . In theory the 20” setup is only .20” bigger. I’d like to run the 20”combo and drop the rear 2”.
9c46ed3c292758f83f39065aa4a4836f.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted (edited)

5b31bd4710ddb_2016SilveradoNewFalkens.thumb.jpg.65a23a02f6fbd612f3653ccabf02ab2b.jpg

 

Got a new set of 275/60/20 Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws. Truck has a 2" level and tires fit perfectly. Absolutely no rubbing. 

Edited by SoCa2ID

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 330 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...