Jump to content

Lights behind grill

Wormydog1724

Recommended Posts

Chevysousa Enthusiast

Chevysousa

Posted
Posted

I had 3 techs from the dealership make a point to come out when my truck was done today and they all wanted to know where I got the bars. They all love this set up too! I even turned them on for the techs. One was smart enough to stare at them when I told them not to because I was about to turn them on. He couldn't see too well for like 10 minutes. He got blinded with how bright everything is!

hey i noticed you got a bull bar with front P sensores? does ur bullbar set off the sensors? im wanting to get a bull bar for my 2015 chevy with front sensors.

  • Replies 406
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

hey i noticed you got a bull bar with front P sensores? does ur bullbar set off the sensors? im wanting to get a bull bar for my 2015 chevy with front sensors.

Yes it does set off the sensors. I have the sensors unplugged and the 2 in the bar wired in but they aren't wired properly so they aren't working right haha.

  • 2 weeks later...
WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

Posted
Posted

I installed a 30" bar to the frame behind the grill, it was turned on once(truck was off when it was turned off) to confirm it worked then truck sat over night. Next day I turned the truck on and AC didn't work. I take the truck to the dealership who inform me the light bar caused the AC system to overheat, which caused a AC line to have a pin hole in it. Is this possible or are they just trying to place blame? I know the 2014 silverados have horrible AC systems that are prone to breaking. They told me to take the bar out but I can't be for sure that the bar is even the problem. What do you all think?

nando87 Enthusiast

nando87

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a crappy excuse to me!

 

However I just put a tune on my truck and have the fans kick full speed at 212deg. because of my led bar and towing but now the A/C blows colder then ever!!... Sound like an excuse but being that the fans helped so much they might be onto something I guess.

nando87 Enthusiast

nando87

Posted
Posted

How did you do that with your fans man?

when we put a tune on the truck you can control your fan speed and temp that they come on, I have mine spinning full speed as soon as the truck hits 212 deg. Normal operating temperatures are around 207, in the stock tune the fans don't actually go full speed until the truck is at 240 deg!!

 

After putting the light bar behind my grill and towing I could notice a difference on how fast the temps climbed and took to long to recover, after the tune the fans keep things in check much better.

WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

Posted
Posted

when we put a tune on the truck you can control your fan speed and temp that they come on, I have mine spinning full speed as soon as the truck hits 212 deg. Normal operating temperatures are around 207, in the stock tune the fans don't actually go full speed until the truck is at 240 deg!!

 

After putting the light bar behind my grill and towing I could notice a difference on how fast the temps climbed and took to long to recover, after the tune the fans keep things in check much better.

Time to look into tuning now then. Anything you can recommend for our trucks in that world?

nando87 Enthusiast

nando87

Posted
Posted

Time to look into tuning now then. Anything you can recommend for our trucks in that world?

TDT on here provided some great advice and helped out, but My buddy and I did it our self's with HPTunners. I don't like "canned" tunes form hand held tunes and couldn't recommend one.

 

My advise is look into the engine tuning thread, lots of good advise on there and you might find someone local to you that can help out.

Jon A Senior Enthusiast

Jon A

Posted
Posted

They told me to take the bar out but I can't be for sure that the bar is even the problem. What do you all think?

 

They’re full of crap. While the light can have a small effect on cooling at highway speeds, the highest loads on A/C are when the vehicle is stationary and the cooling is coming from the fans—which won’t be affected measurably by the light.

 

Even if it did, it’s pretty much impossible for these A/C systems to build up enough pressure to start bursting lines. While the stock fan settings are conservative, there is a separate table in there that will crank up the fan if your A/C pressure gets too high which should bring it back down. If that fails the computer will disable the compressor long before the pressure reaches “line bursting” levels. Even in the old days, A/C systems had "high pressure" shutoff switches that would do it, now the computer handles it.

 

I would say the most likely scenario is you accidentally damaged a line when installing the light if the hole was close to where you were working…if not it was an unrelated coincidence.

 

But don’t worry, when fixed your A/C will work just fine with the light there.

WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

Posted
Posted

 

Theyre full of crap. While the light can have a small effect on cooling at highway speeds, the highest loads on A/C are when the vehicle is stationary and the cooling is coming from the fanswhich wont be affected measurably by the light.

 

Even if it did, its pretty much impossible for these A/C systems to build up enough pressure to start bursting lines. While the stock fan settings are conservative, there is a separate table in there that will crank up the fan if your A/C pressure gets too high which should bring it back down. If that fails the computer will disable the compressor long before the pressure reaches line bursting levels. Even in the old days, A/C systems had "high pressure" shutoff switches that would do it, now the computer handles it.

 

I would say the most likely scenario is you accidentally damaged a line when installing the light if the hole was close to where you were workingif not it was an unrelated coincidence.

 

But dont worry, when fixed your A/C will work just fine with the light there.

Thank you for the information, gladly appreciate it. I'm wondering, my drill bit did hit the side of the rad on one of the holes I drilled through on the bar, would the line be in that area?

  • 3 months later...
agentf Enthusiast

agentf

Posted
Posted

Anybody try a 30"ish CURVED led light bar behind the grill?

 

Yes, a dual row 30" curved bar fits perfectly behind an AT grill. It has been done my numerous members many different ways.

Rkaroll953 Enthusiast

Rkaroll953

Posted
Posted

Here are the pics of everything installed, I love how clean everything came out.

 

DSC_7770_zpscrwmfem1.jpg

DSC_7771_zpsbqzkahd0.jpgDSC_7772_zpsdsbferc4.jpgDSC_7773_zpsubgakumk.jpgDSC_7776_zpsb9qqdvse.jpg

fernando, for replacing your fog lights did you just wiring into the stock fog light harness or did you have to put a rectifier there. I have been wondering this because isint there AC going to the stock incandescent bulbs while the leds need DC.

nando87 Enthusiast

nando87

Posted
Posted

fernando, for replacing your fog lights did you just wiring into the stock fog light harness or did you have to put a rectifier there. I have been wondering this because isint there AC going to the stock incandescent bulbs while the leds need DC.

I used a wiring harness from an HID kit, this worked great! I used But connectors to connect one piece of the HID harness to the pigtails of the LED lights, and the other end of the harness has prongs that slid into the stock harness. Haven't had a single problem with this at all, I can take a picture of it tonight when I get home and upload for you.

Rkaroll953 Enthusiast

Rkaroll953

Posted
Posted

I used a wiring harness from an HID kit, this worked great! I used But connectors to connect one piece of the HID harness to the pigtails of the LED lights, and the other end of the harness has prongs that slid into the stock harness. Haven't had a single problem with this at all, I can take a picture of it tonight when I get home and upload for you.

awesome thanks. after doing more research that seems the best way!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,166 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Z45
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Z45 · Posted

      Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...