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My truck hasn't seen the liquid brine, I haven't driven it in the last 3 winters. I don't know how much worse that is, salt is salt. Mortal enemy of unprotected steel and we use a lot of it here. The problem with the coatings everyone is recommending is they only get one side. You can't get at any of the hydro formed box sections so they continue to rust from the inside out. The only real way to protect these frames properly is hot dip galvanize them. Though that adds weight. The rust protection sprays if done right can get into the hydro formed cavities but too late for that now it seems. Ford is going to aluminium bodies, maybe they will do the frame next. They will have to be careful with that making sure the 2 metals are electrically separated.

The basic problem is GM is trying to lighten the truck and sacrificing longevity because their corrosion protection for the frame doesn't work. I would sacrifice a few points in gas mileage for an extra decade of driving my truck.
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The old salt and sand mix was not anywhere near as bad as the magnesium chloride being used in some states. Not only rusting out cars and tractor trailers but bridges too.

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Interesting, actually a study at Purdue shows it is about half as damaging as salt, sodium chloride to bridges. I live on a dirt road and it is used as a dust suppressant and stabilizer. So I get it year round. Every time the road gets wet it splashes on my truck and car. So much for thinking I washed everything off in the spring.

The one thing bad for vehicles is it attracts moisture. It will make things stay wet longer meaning the chemical attack will continue for a longer period of time. So even though it may be half as damaging as regular salt, by staying active longer it could be way worse over a year. Plus by using it in the winter for ice control and in the summer for dust control I get it 12 months of the year. I live in a humid area so it has lots of moisture to work year round, it just sucks it out of the air.

I had noticed some times even though it was dry out that the dust collecting in areas under my vehicles would be damp. This explains that. You learn something every day. Doesn't let GM off the hook though. If their corrosion protection stayed in place it should prevent this. It seems if you lose a section of the coating, corrosion will run under the rest of it and peel it all off. As you can see on my truck it is all gone. So for everyone else, keep an eye on it and when a section of frame becomes exposed go into the dealer and make them repair it. GM has a bulletin out and will pay for it.

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A coworker of mine has a 2012 with the undercoating peeling off. I told him about the dealers fixing the 2014's. He stopped by his dealer last week, and they fixed his too.

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From what I've heard is keeping your vehicle in a garage. Especially if it is heated can speed up the corrosion process.

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From what I've heard is keeping your vehicle in a garage. Especially if it is heated can speed up the corrosion process.

X2 on that. It allows the salty snow to melt overnight and the salt sits everywhere it shouldn't.

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The body on my 03 Silverado is still pretty much rust free. My concern is the frame area towards the rear. I already replaced brake lines and leaf spring shackles due to rust. Other then using the Por 15 stuff is there anything else i can spray on there to slow the rust down? I was thinking of just scrapping the rusted areas and undercoating. Any ideas and suggestions greatly appreciated !



I'm considering using this stuff. Has anyone else tried it :


http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-28601.html?reltype=2&parent_id=48159



Lou


Edited by SG Lou

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This is what I used on my 06

 

uploadfromtaptalk1410013468026.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1410013468026.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1410013468026.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1410013468026.jpg

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IMO....Im not sure painting over rust is a good idea either. Once rust starts the only way to stop it is to wire brush it down to bare metal, and cover it with a NON- drying product like fluid film or similar. I personally use "Rust Check coat and protect" that come in a green spray can from Canadian tire. Dealers are putting a rubber based rust protector on from the factory that drys, and this is the worst stuff you can put on your frame. Once is cracks ( and it will happen) it traps moisture in and rust will form and spread like wild-fire because is never gets a chance to dry out. I seen it first hand on my old 2002 s-10 which i purchaced second hand with 80,000kms on it, and underneath the rubber undercoating was scales of rust the length of the frame.

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I've seen POR15 used with the pretreatment work well in these situations but if it's too thin and weak no paint is going to help

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I'm the original poster of the rusted out silverado frame.

 

Since then I've gotten a frame restoration garage to do a restore. They did about $1700 worth of work. Took the box off rebuilt parts of the frame, replaced things like shock and spring mounts, motor mounts too. The brackets that held the running boards on had to be replaced. While there they replaced the gas line. After they were finished they sprayed all (most) exposed areas with this black stuff. 94421 or called something like that.

 

I purchased a rear bumper from Amazon and put it on myself. Any rust on that was from other reasons. A crease in the chrome from a dent started the backside metal rusting out. It almost cut the bumper in half. BTW.. I've got lots of the same thing on my older tahoe.... rust but no falling apart issues. If anyone is replacing a bumper do yourself a favor and cut chunks of it off with a grinder to get to the bolts. Otherwise, taking it off is 90% of the job. A new one goes on easy.

 

Now...... I got a low coolant notice. No leaks that I can find. I'm keeping track of it to see if it's more than a one time thing. if not then game's over for me with this vehicle and GM if it's a head gasket or cracked block. Will this vehicle hell never end!?

post-133090-0-50052200-1410342012_thumb.jpgpost-133090-0-19901800-1410342025_thumb.jpg

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post-133090-0-50052200-1410342012_thumb.jpg

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post-133090-0-50052200-1410342012_thumb.jpg

post-133090-0-19901800-1410342025_thumb.jpg

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It's almost 12 years old, and lived in a crappy climate all of it's life. GMT800's are known BIG rusters in my area (upstate NY). Unfortunately, these things don't last forever.

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Here is some information that will help when firming up a rusted frame. My frame doesn't have enough metal left to grind down to bare. I was thinking of using this process before I put a protectant over coat on.

9-5TannicAcidTreatm.pdf9-6CleaningIron.pdf

 

9-5TannicAcidTreatm.pdf

9-6CleaningIron.pdf

9-5TannicAcidTreatm.pdf

9-6CleaningIron.pdf

9-5TannicAcidTreatm.pdf

9-6CleaningIron.pdf

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It's a big problem that I just started seeing. Yep pulled the bed off my 2002 and May as well junk the truck. Frame is rusted so badly. So figured I might just look for another wrecked truck Lol. Big surprise there are 30 or so silverado trucks for sale local. Ok off to find one. Not one of them has a good frame under it!!!!!!!! Not all were plow trucks. Some not even high milage. Wow not so happy now. What have others done with bad back halfs? I have no problem at all cutting this truck in half if I could find a clean back half Disclaimer. I have cut many trucks( big and little) not for Joe average. You can't tell me that GM thinks this is not a problem!! Brake lines. Fuel lines. Rockers. Cab corners I can and do deal with. But what the!! Have a 54. 66. 82. 87 90. Non have frame rot like this

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