Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

This is the video I shot this afternoon. Hopefully you can see the flex of the bracket. Sorry for the poor quality of the video. First one I have done.

 

 

 

Wow that is awful! I thought I had "the flex" but mine doesn't flex that much. About 1/8-1/4" at most. You definitely need to bring that to the dealer's attention ASAP that is completely unacceptable. The fact that mine doesn't flex as much leads me to believe it may be an assembly issue possibly and it could be fixed somehow? I don't have adjustable pedals. Build date 9/2013. Rest of my vehicle specs under my avatar.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

wow... 2015, (build 10-14) non adjustable and that is shocking.

 

I would never build peddles like that on anything even a go cart, let alone a $40k truck.

When it warms up I will try to put a metal block or something back there to stiff it.

Edited by frenchsquared
Posted

I checked mine and it had a good amount of flex before it engaged. Loosened the (2) 10 mil. nuts and popped a large metal washer behind the bracket. This took out about 95% of the flex. Prior to making this change I really had to mash the pedal to get the truck to get up and go. I was starting to get use to the mushie feel but like it much better with this make shift mod. I was really surprised how crappy the pedal setup is. Thanks for the info.

Posted

Here is a video of the adjustable pedals, you can see there is maybe a 1/4' movement before the pedal moves. My build date is early 2014 shortly after the 6.2L started shipping.

MAH00051

This is of the pedal movement. You can see the go the angle on the brake wrong so even though the screw is still moving the pedal stops, but the gas pedal is still moving closer to the floor. Silly they can't get that right.

MAH00049

 

 

Posted (edited)

I pried the plastic bracket away from the firewall at its lowest point and wedged a 1/4" thick piece of rubber. Works great, even with the small (1/8") amount of play mine had, the vagueness of throttle is mostly gone now. I highly recommened using something like rubber. If you use something metal, it has a good chance of rattling.

Edited by HondaHawkGT
Posted (edited)

Mine ain't broke, so I ain't "fixin'" it with a piece of stick and some goo.

Edited by patriot
Posted

 

Here is a video of the adjustable pedals, you can see there is maybe a 1/4' movement before the pedal moves. My build date is early 2014 shortly after the 6.2L started shipping.

This is of the pedal movement. You can see the go the angle on the brake wrong so even though the screw is still moving the pedal stops, but the gas pedal is still moving closer to the floor. Silly they can't get that right.

 

 

 

I'm having problems viewing your video, can others view it??

 

Thanks

Posted

I hosted it on here, so something to do with the site. It was showing how the adjustable is not as bad. It flexes a lot, but it rests at the bottom of the flex making it not bad when driving. Then the bad pin placement of the brakes pivot point for the drive screw. I'll try and get it posted another way later.

Posted

I hosted it on here, so something to do with the site. It was showing how the adjustable is not as bad. It flexes a lot, but it rests at the bottom of the flex making it not bad when driving. Then the bad pin placement of the brakes pivot point for the drive screw. I'll try and get it posted another way later.

 

 

Thanks, looking forward to another video that will show the non adjustable pedal bracket flex at a different angle.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Update on my paint stick. Have about 2k miles on it. Loving it. Truck drives so much better, especially in traffic. Sad part is I'm looking at buying a custom ordering a '15 Acadia Denali for my wife later this year... :) I ask for punishment in life I guess. I have just over 13k on the clock since August of this year (yes I drive a lot) and other than the gas pedal, frame rust and the 4cyl exhaust squeak I'm real happy with it. I've had it off-road on my job sites quite a bit. lots of hwy and city driving. Really like the truck. no vibes either. But I'm probly going to let 2 free oil change I have left go and do them myself.... last time they couldn't understand I wanted a tire rotation per the manual. And I paint marked the tires for them.

Edited by FL335i
  • 8 months later...
Posted

I must be missing something. I got under my dash and looked at the pedal assembly. There does appear to be some looseness side to side in the assembly and a lot of flex when you PULL on the gas pedal, but when pressing the gas pedal, there's very little flex in mine. I have not put a shim in to see if there's any real world difference but frankly, I just don't see how it would help, at least in my case.

 

I see two bolts, one lower and to the right, one higher and more left. I assume from the pictures that the shim is going under the bracket near the lower bolt, correct?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
    • 1Based on independent testing of OE 0W-20 in the Peugeot TU3M Wear Test as required by the dexos1 Gen 2 specification.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...