Jump to content

Steering Issue? Among other things...


Graphic

Recommended Posts

Posted

Dealer called today. GM has sent a steering gear to install. Couple hours they said. Let's see what happens.

I am guessing that after some driving the download was of no help for the pull issue.

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

No help at all on the pull. I am hoping that if the steering gear is worn that replacement will fix the pull and wander. The update had actually been in there a month already, even the area rep got to drive it with the update in there we just didn't know it was installed.

Posted

Well, the "steering gear" is actually the entire assembly, the tie rods, rack, pinion, motor. It's a one piece unit they changed it all. Service advisor says since my truck was such an early build it had a prototype steering gear. The new one was slightly different. I saw the old one, so at least I know it is changed. It was really gusty on the way home, so I couldn't really say the pull was any better, but it didn't seem to wander.

 

Fingers crossed.

Posted

So you actually got the whole steering gear replaced huh? damn, I dont have the time or patience to hash that one out with the dealer.

Posted

So you actually got the whole steering gear replaced huh? damn, I dont have the time or patience to hash that one out with the dealer.

I didn't ask, I just got a call from the dealer and they said GM had sent it and when could they get the truck to install. It was a surprise. I haven't driven it enough to say it fixed anything yet.

Posted

I didn't ask, I just got a call from the dealer and they said GM had sent it and when could they get the truck to install. It was a surprise. I haven't driven it enough to say it fixed anything yet.

 

Hmm very interesting.

Posted

I have had a few days to drive the truck and I have to say that it is better. The pull to the left is gone I am pretty sure (this has been better at times before but this has been better since they put the steering gear on). Had a message on the machine when I got home from the service advisor asking how the truck was so I called him back and told him. Pull is gone, but the wander is still there, but better, maybe 50%. I think the dealer has gone as far as it can.

 

I took some pictures of the frame rust and coating falling off that I will try to post in a minute. I sent them to the service advisor at the dealer to forward to the area rep per his request. After taking the pictures I made up my mind I am done with this truck. It was worse than I thought. I just do not have it in me anymore to keep fighting it. If GM doesn't treat me right I will be done with them. Not angry, just done. At 7000 miles, this has just turned my stomach...

 

Customer service rep called me after I email the pictures. She didn't get them, it was just a coincidence. She's been great to be honest, but I think what a lot of us do not understand, at least I didn't, is that this not a one party system. More like a check and balance between the dealer, the area rep and customer service. Take that for what it is worth.

 


 

 

Hope this gallery works lol

 

Posted

I am guessing that after some driving the download was of no help for the pull issue.

I should clarify that after the update I did not have the steering bind in cold weather, which was just as cold if not colder than when it did bind. So the update may actually work.

Posted

So after some back and forth the dealership can finally hear the clicking in my steering column. It's on and off but for sure something you can hear. Says it may be shaft that needs lube or steering column. So well see. But this makes lucky # 7 dealer visit in 5 months of owning this truck.

Posted

I had a 1998 Silverado that had an alignment issue. Never could get it fixed, multiple dealers, multiple 3rd party repair guys. Always pulled, no matter what. Frustrating! I personally believe it was a frame alignment problem. I hear frame warping and damage occurs a LOT from shipment of the truck to your dealership.

 

I have also noticed that my 2015 truck doesn't seem as well planted on the road as past Chevy's I've had. I had a 2011 Z71 before and it was amazingly solid on the road. Up to 40 MPH side wind, and I would not even know it. That truck LOVED going straight down the road. My 2015 doesn't. Just a slight change in road level and the truck needs correction to go straight. Not a big deal, as it still seems better than some vehicles I've owned in the past. But just sad to see this change in "quality" in the trucks. Overall though I do like the steering better now with the electric assist, at least in terms of maneuverability in town and in parking lots etc.

Posted

I had a 1998 Silverado that had an alignment issue. Never could get it fixed, multiple dealers, multiple 3rd party repair guys. Always pulled, no matter what. Frustrating! I personally believe it was a frame alignment problem. I hear frame warping and damage occurs a LOT from shipment of the truck to your dealership.

 

I have also noticed that my 2015 truck doesn't seem as well planted on the road as past Chevy's I've had. I had a 2011 Z71 before and it was amazingly solid on the road. Up to 40 MPH side wind, and I would not even know it. That truck LOVED going straight down the road. My 2015 doesn't. Just a slight change in road level and the truck needs correction to go straight. Not a big deal, as it still seems better than some vehicles I've owned in the past. But just sad to see this change in "quality" in the trucks. Overall though I do like the steering better now with the electric assist, at least in terms of maneuverability in town and in parking lots etc.

 

 

What you are describing is typical of EPAS on pretty much any vehicle. These steering systems are incredibly sensitive to road slope and crowning. I prefer the traditional hydraulic rack and pinion of yesteryear, much like your 2007. Hell, I even miss the Hydraulic pitman and idler setup from my 2002 Silverado. I had Cognito parts in that truck plus a good quality steering stabilizer (had a 6" lift and 33" tires) and that thing was solid on the road....never should have gotten rid of that truck.

Posted

 

 

What you are describing is typical of EPAS on pretty much any vehicle. These steering systems are incredibly sensitive to road slope and crowning.

 

Yeah, I should have mentioned that. The earlier truck would move toward the left though, not the right so in that case it wasn't the road crown issue. Any good vehicle should be able to handle the crown IMHO, and most do. Usually GM trucks I've driven did handle the crown very nicely. I have read where the new electric assist steering is supposed to sense and act against the crown leaning of the road, but not sure if that actually works or not as it seems hard to tell. The trucks do have tilt sense ability, as seen in the DIC in some of the models. So it makes sense that it should be able to make minor changes to keep steering more in line with the road in cases like this. One features I'd like to see is the ability for the owner to adjust the amount of power assist. No reason why this could not be done in the new electric assist setup. I understand and appreciate the "feel of the road" concept, but suffering from carpal tunnel issues lately, I'd love to add a little more assist to the wheel these days. They did that in a review of the steering here: http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2010/05/driving-a-pickup-with-electric-power-steering.html

Posted

Had my truck at the dealer the last few days, primarily for oil change and scheduled maintenance. But I am also having them check out a few TSBs.

 

1. is the headlights which they found the tsb and are replacing the bulbs and reprogramming the bcm.

2. is a transmission update (i was kind of reaching on that one, but i figured I would have them work while I had it in)

3. is the steering update, which they have not found any documentation on.

 

Did you ever find out any more info on the steering update they did?

 

I have been driving a loaner 2015 the last few days and the steering in this truck is way better than mine. No wander, or drift left. Feels on center and fluid throughout turns.

Posted

Did you ever find out any more info on the steering update they did?

There were no numbers, was unaware they put it in until the next visit. The tech called TSC and they sent it to him. Beyond that, I don't know what else to tell you. Sorry.

 

Yes, the loaner I had was driving totally different as well. What tires are on the loaner?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
    • 1Based on independent testing of OE 0W-20 in the Peugeot TU3M Wear Test as required by the dexos1 Gen 2 specification.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...