Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

They're working great, for a direct replacement using stock springs they are light years better than Ranchos. The 6112 should be awesome. The Toyota guys love them and say they're comparable to KINGS/ICONS

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

Do we have any idea when they will release those?

Posted

Do we have any idea when they will release those?

They expected to date has come and gone. Who knows ?

 

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Quick question..

2014 sierra crew cab

I got 275/60/20 Discoverer AT/3 and doing the Billstein level on top notch.

Can i get the tires mounted first before the shock install? Just wondering if it will rub hard untill i can get the shocks installed the next day or so.

Posted

According to the "Technical CSR" I've been emailing about these for the last few months, the current status is "They are due in anytime now, waiting on spring coating."

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, RHStansbury said:

According to the "Technical CSR" I've been emailing about these for the last few months, the current status is "They are due in anytime now, waiting on spring coating."

 

They always have one reason or another, but hopefully that is the truth. They have been due since last year. I will believe them when they arrive to our loading dock!!!

Posted
On 10/23/2017 at 5:24 AM, Ozer said:

Quick question..

2014 sierra crew cab

I got 275/60/20 Discoverer AT/3 and doing the Billstein level on top notch.

Can i get the tires mounted first before the shock install? Just wondering if it will rub hard untill i can get the shocks installed the next day or so.

 

U-Turns will be hard. But if its just for a day I think you will survive.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just read a thread on the Bilsein bump that occurs after installation of the shocks. It seems the top plate does not get tightened down all the way unless you use a washer or spacer under the shock top nut. I have been having some noise in the front end since the swap over washboard sections in the road. I checked this afternoon when I got home from work and found my top plate loose enough to move. So I did some searching and found the thread mentioned above. The bad part about trying to correct tbis is you gotta almost stand on your head to correct it. Maybe not tomorrow night but by the weekend I will have done something about it anyway. I'll link the thread here tomorrow.

Posted
I just read a thread on the Bilsein bump that occurs after installation of the shocks. It seems the top plate does not get tightened down all the way unless you use a washer or spacer under the shock top nut. I have been having some noise in the front end since the swap over washboard sections in the road. I checked this afternoon when I got home from work and found my top plate loose enough to move. So I did some searching and found the thread mentioned above. The bad part about trying to correct tbis is you gotta almost stand on your head to correct it. Maybe not tomorrow night but by the weekend I will have done something about it anyway. I'll link the thread here tomorrow.
My Bilsteins set on the max lift were installed earlier this year so (living in the Midwest) this is first they've seen cooler temps.
On the expressway today the truck was really riding funny. Kinda like very small whoops so it felt like it was bouncing up and down really fast. ( I was going between 70 and 80 mph)Not like with out shocks.. It was very stiff feeling. I wrote it off as just being that section of highway combined with the trucks wheelbase.
Later I was on a totally different expressway and felt the same.
Anyone experience this? Would a spacer lift work better for ride quality with the shocks set at stock height?
Also Eddie 70, mine makes a light knocking/ rattle noise when going slow over terrain that makes the truck flex side to side. Nothing big.. Just driving across the yard will do it and I can't find anything lose.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted

I went out to the garage tonight when I got home and checked everything really closely. The top plate was VERY loose. The best way I found to tighten the bolt was through the fender well. Hold the wheel well liner back, rotate the shock shaft so you can hold it with a small crescent wrench. Tighten the 16MM nut on the top of the shock until it is tight against the top plate and no more movement is noticed.

 

Read this thread for pics.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I have driven approximately 175 miles since I did this the other day. This was the fix for mine. It may loosen up, but I can't imagine it would using the supplied nuts that came with the shocks. They are just a tad undersized and you have to use a wrench to run them down. However, if it does loosen, I will double nut it.

SO much better with them tightened down. The truck is almost quiet again and it has 92k miles. I am excited again!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Enjoy the new truck, it’s a beauty. I’m glad you’re keeping the OBS, I love those old trucks. 
    • With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...