Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Again, false.  I've actually had the stock Ranchos and then Bilstein 5100's on this truck and done all the same things with it that I have with my "next level" setup so I've felt first hand the improvements at each stage.  There was a significant improvement from one stage to the next.  One worth every penny.
 
By your statement, it's clear you've never experienced just how good a vehicle can be with a really good set of shocks.  Otherwise you'd know the real waste of money is spending $50K on a truck and then driving it around on cheap, crappy shocks its entire life.
 
 

All good points and a very nice truck. The whole point is that everyone likes what they like and can pay to get it if they want.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I just recently replaced my stock Ranchos with a set of 5100s. I have a couple thousand miles on them now between highway driving and the deer lease that has some pretty rough rocky roads/trails. Honestly, I couldn't believe how much of an improvement the ride is over stock. I know they are not top of the line, but they are all I need.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted
3 hours ago, WVU said:

Did you stick with the stock UCA when running your icons in the front or did you replace with an aftermarket?

Yes, with the leveled setup I used Cognito UCA's.  I now have a BDS 4" lift and went back to stock UCA's for that as the lift corrects the angles and allows all the travel needed.

Posted

Question, I have a 2015 2wd with the RC2.5. If i install the 5100 at highest setting and leave the top strut spacer provided with the RC kit will it stay the same hight?  right now with 33" tires fender is at 39" 

 

Thanks. 

Posted
On 8/22/2018 at 10:53 AM, jpmiami said:

Question, I have a 2015 2wd with the RC2.5. If i install the 5100 at highest setting and leave the top strut spacer provided with the RC kit will it stay the same hight?  right now with 33" tires fender is at 39" 

 

Thanks. 

That's not advised as your UCA U-joint will be screwed...

Posted
1 hour ago, JamesAT18 said:

That's not advised as your UCA U-joint will be screwed...

so it would seat higher than the 2.5 the RC kit gives me? my truck has 75k miles on that kit and rides well. Just want a firmer better handling ride. 

Posted

Local shop wants $900 installed (includes alignment) for the 5100s on my stock height '16. Seems like a lot for labor. And a 103 pages is a lot of reading on this thread. I have access to a driveway and many tools, but I've never done suspension work on a vehicle. Is this something I should be apprehensive to do myself and if not, do I need to do anything to the rest of the vehicle to stay within bounds of factory warranty?

Posted
25 minutes ago, Homeslice said:

Local shop wants $900 installed (includes alignment) for the 5100s on my stock height '16. Seems like a lot for labor. And a 103 pages is a lot of reading on this thread. I have access to a driveway and many tools, but I've never done suspension work on a vehicle. Is this something I should be apprehensive to do myself and if not, do I need to do anything to the rest of the vehicle to stay within bounds of factory warranty?

$900 is highway robbery.

You can most definitely change the rears yourself in about 30 minutes.

The fronts are tricky with the spring. If you can get the coil strut assembly out, take it to a shop and have them swap the shock out. Then you can reinstall the strut assy. This will save you hundreds.

For $900 they should include the 4 shocks!

Posted
$900 is highway robbery.
You can most definitely change the rears yourself in about 30 minutes.
The fronts are tricky with the spring. If you can get the coil strut assembly out, take it to a shop and have them swap the shock out. Then you can reinstall the strut assy. This will save you hundreds.
For $900 they should include the 4 shocks!


Find a different local shop. My local tire shop (big-o tires) wanted $95/side to do the fronts. $900 is insane.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
6 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

$900 is highway robbery.

You can most definitely change the rears yourself in about 30 minutes.

The fronts are tricky with the spring. If you can get the coil strut assembly out, take it to a shop and have them swap the shock out. Then you can reinstall the strut assy. This will save you hundreds.

For $900 they should include the 4 shocks!

The $900 does include the 5100s themselves. Thanks for the info. 

Posted
39 minutes ago, Homeslice said:

Local shop wants $900 installed (includes alignment) for the 5100s on my stock height '16. Seems like a lot for labor. And a 103 pages is a lot of reading on this thread. I have access to a driveway and many tools, but I've never done suspension work on a vehicle. Is this something I should be apprehensive to do myself and if not, do I need to do anything to the rest of the vehicle to stay within bounds of factory warranty?

My shop quoted me $540 out the door. Parts and labor. 

Posted

You can get the set of 4 for about $350

So they are still charging you  $550 for labor.

Granted, an alignment is necessary and that is $100 on average.

Posted

A little something found on the leveling thread Homeslice......

 

On 8/19/2018 at 2:04 PM, TNAZ said:

If you are certain you only want 1.5 to 2 inches of lift, then you could go with the Bilstein 5100 struts which do not require any UCA change and actually work within the existing front suspension geometry better than any other solution I know of for staying as close to "stock" as possible and minimizing chances of voiding your factory warranties related to the suspension.  Spacers and new UCAs are well know to GM and they are cracking down on them a bit as mentioned in one of their "KB" bulletins.  The 5100 struts on your model truck will give from 1.5 to 2 inches of lift (they advertise "up to 1.85" inches).  I got 1.5 inches with mine set on the highest level (they have different height adjustments).  Others are getting 2 inches of lift but all are getting between 1.5 and 2 inches like you want.  Further, the 5100s solve the problem of driving off-road and taking dips/speedbumps way better than the stock shocks.   If you do the struts in the front, I would also do the rear 5100 shocks, which is what I did, and love them compared to stock.  I did mine at 4WheelParts (total cost about $750 for everything installed and the final wheel alignment.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Sierra Dan said:

A little something found on the leveling thread Homeslice......

 

Thank you everyone. 

Posted

No problem!

Just hate to see anyone overpay for something.

In this day,age and economy.....we need all the savings help we can get :thumbs:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • A while back, my truck (2018 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3) went in for an o2 sensor and routine service. The tech identified that my rear output seal on my transfer case was leaking, and recommended I have them replace it. At the time I didn't think anything of it, and had them do the repair. Less than a month later, I noticed that the recently repaired seal was leaking again. I called the shop that did the repair and they warrantied the repair and replaced the same seal again. A few months later, I noticed that once again the same seal leak had come back. It wasn't a great time to bring it in and I ended up just living with it for 6 months or so, noticing small (smaller than a baseball) size oil stains below the truck when it would sit for a while, as well as oil spray on the frame (to the point where it actually took the underbody coating off in that one spot). Finally got around to brining it in again, but this time I took it to a dealership service center since I am in a different part of the state for school. They identified the same output seal leaks and recommended they replace them. They also said there was no scoring on the inside of the transfer case, so it didn't need to be replaced. They chalked up the original repair failures to non oem seals and a job that wasn't done correctly. Now they called and said the seals are holding after driving/sitting for a while, but they found a very small leak in the middle, that they recommended they seal with some kind of silicone/jb weld (not sure what they are using). I haven't picked up the truck yet, but I have been reluctant about this whole repair process because I feel like they are just fixing the same thing that keeps coming back, and I am concerned there could be another root cause for the seal failing. Has anybody else experienced anything like this, or have any ideas on other things that could be the root cause?
    • I just started having AC issues with my 2012 Sierra. The symptom is blowing warm air on all vents.  Here is what I have checked so far. Compressor clutch appears to be engaging and cycling  I checked all fuses and relay, no issues. The only thing I have notices is the short line that comes from the firewall is very cold / frosted. This line is approximately 12 inches long. The coldness stops when it hits the first line connector. As far as AC compressor - At first start the clutch engages, runs continually, Short AC line frosts up. After idling for several minutes the AC line thaws out some but is still cool and the compressor clutch starts cycling on and off every 5 seconds.  Any suggestions on what to look at next would be appreciated.  
    • Unless you are using a bypass filer system with a Beta of 1000 at 2 micron the commercial filters we have access to, even the very best of them, are poor at the 5 to 10 micron range the typical UOA test can 'see'. Point is there are some truly awful filters being sold A 45 micron Beta 75 filter is what Dyson used to call a screen door on a submarine. That leaves wear metals disconnected from filtration unless particulates are larger than the test can 'see' and yet captured by the filter...which is its job. If that is true then you have a major issue screaming at you.    The graph isn't mine. It belongs to GM and their study on this area. I looked up those studies and provided those SAE tech paper addresses multiple times. Machinery Lubrication displayed it and confirmed it. So if you have doubts about the study you'll have to take it up with GM Engineering. Just like you would have to take up a difference in opinion about the meaning a word with Webster or the length of on inch with the National Institute of Standards and Technology.      Most manuals have two schedules. "Normal Service" and "Severe Service". On it's face it tells you that oil in severe service is more highly stressed and doesn't "Last as Long". The item to bore in on is LAST...what does that mean?    It's the same question one asks about how long to toast bread. What are the inputs? Bread type? Wattage of the toaster? Distance from the elements? What is your preferred level of done?    So lets paint this with a broader brush. Oil is made up of the base and the additive package. The first is altered by heat and oxygen and later is sacrificial with a finite life subject to inputs toward that end. Resistance and supply.    It is the reason an OEM's OCI's are determined by 1.) the specifications of the recommended lubricant and 2.) risk management toward the bottom line. Those lubricants are also subject to cost effectiveness for the OEM.    There is a tendency for most people to believe that the OEM recommended oil rest on the top shelf and that anything other is lesser than. Truth is there are more oils on higher shelves than those on the lower shelf below the OEM's. They make that choice on COST TO THE OEM. Testing is incidental to the margin.    GM makes MONEY, the car/truck is a TOOL to leverage MONEY. Insert whatever car brand you like. Until you forking over a million plus COST not quality is the driver. Thus it is by DESIGN the recommended OCI's and oils fall well short of 'best practice protections'. Proof isn't hard to find. GM Ecotec I-4 2400 breather system and cold start PCM tuning has killed more motors and resulted in more litigation for those that used the 'recommended' practice than GM could bear. What was their response? SHORTEN THE OCI. TWICE.    I don't know how long to leave oil in an I don't know how the oil will respond to MY circumstances and because I don't and can't blanket statement or anecdotal evidence my way out of it.....I TEST and FIND the right OCI for the oil I CHOOSE. There is no shortcut but there is blind allegiance. I don't blindly trust anything.    People hear the word 'detergent' and believe that in the context of oil it means the same thing as laundry soap... Only in the most rudimentary way. It's the first additive to give up on you and they are putting less and less with each new API standard. Solvency can be used but it cost. Some unique undisclosed chemistries can be used. Valvoline R & P in example. OEM's haven't an interest in anything they see as limiting market participation. Whatever.         
    • For some unexplained reason my father wanted a salvage yard. As we were getting the family business off the ground one brother ran the salvage yard. We gathered there when rained out working on pipelines in the eighties to pull parts. Perfectly good running vehicles would come to us simply because they wouldn’t pass emissions inspection. We were able to swap parts and sell some of them. I got a clean old nova with a bad engine. I pulled a perfectly good small block out a Camaro. A father and son project with a rebuilt engine. The son couldn’t get the engine running right. The problem was the spark plugs weren’t gapped. The 90s vehicles probably widened the gap of shade tree do it yourself engine repair. My do it yourself hot rod repair stopped at the 70s. After that my trusted mechanic kept them in running shape. 
    • I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back.   When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking?   Where do you hide the jar of teeth?   I would never.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...