Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 1/22/2019 at 4:29 PM, Yondu said:

I had considered removing them to cut the bumpstops back some, so there is a gap. In the past I did this when I lowered a car. I ended up throwing weight in the bed (started with 240lbs, I think - terrible memory) and my highway bounce got significantly better and the ride was a lot nicer.  This told me the front wasn't the issue, so I kind of forgot about the front struts and their bump stops.  

 

I'm not sure if I have the energy to disassemble everything to see if it ride any better after taking an inch or so out of the stops.  Unless of course you tell me how great it rides after...hahaha

 

This is a terrible idea, bump stops are there for a reason...to keep your suspension from bottoming out fully.  

Posted

I’m guessing the bump stop you all are taking about are on the front suspension? If this is the case, my truck doesn’t have any. Don’t think it even came with any. Assuming these are the rubber stoppers on the frame to prevent the upper control arm hitting it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

No... I think they are talking about the bump stop located on the shaft of the front shock near the top. Picture attached for reference.

Mark

1781b67188ec77508220e1def9d668d7.jpg

Sent from my Phone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, Fasthotrod said:

No... I think they are talking about the bump stop located on the shaft of the front shock near the top. Picture attached for reference.

Mark

1781b67188ec77508220e1def9d668d7.jpg

Sent from my Phone using Tapatalk
 

That's the one.  The truck is testing on them though, so it's less of a bump stop. I've cut them on cars when lowering them because if you don't, the car will ride terribly.  

Posted
4 hours ago, aaronarf said:

 

This is a terrible idea, bump stops are there for a reason...to keep your suspension from bottoming out fully.  

The point was, the aren't being used as a stopper, it's already sitting on them.  

Posted
9 hours ago, Yondu said:

The point was, the aren't being used as a stopper, it's already sitting on them.  

In the event that the suspension stroke is fully utilized - guaranteed that bump stop compresses much more than you think while still protecting the internals from over-compression.

Posted

I understand what the point of a bump stop is. I also understand that by the truck resting on it, it will make the truck ride stiffer, that's why I brought it up.  The Bilstein struts have a different stroke length to deal with their adjustable height settings which would make would make it much more difficult to bottom out, especially on the top setting vs the bottom. 

 

Think of the front suspension as a system not one individual piece. 

Posted

i installed 5100's on the front yesterday and when disassembling them that bump stop on the shock was the opposite way you have yours in the picture is it installed wrong

Posted

Good day guys,

 

i have a question regarding the bilstein 5100s i love the looks of the silver ones but i have read somewhere that the stock setting on rear shock wont be exactly oem as slight lift will be there, unlike the 4600s which will give exact oem height settings. Is that correct? Anyone tried checking on this?

Posted
1 hour ago, Khalid123 said:

Good day guys,

 

i have a question regarding the bilstein 5100s i love the looks of the silver ones but i have read somewhere that the stock setting on rear shock wont be exactly oem as slight lift will be there, unlike the 4600s which will give exact oem height settings. Is that correct? Anyone tried checking on this?

Rear shocks are not adjustable. 

Posted (edited)
26 minutes ago, MBSierra17 said:

Rear shocks are not adjustable. 

Oh im sorry, but considering i replaced my oem shocks with 5100s, will it be exactly same as oem shocks height? 

Edited by Khalid123
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Khalid123 said:

Oh im sorry, but considering i replaced my oem shocks with 5100s, will it be exactly same as oem shocks height? 

They can accommodate 0-2" of lift if I remember correctly. They'll be fine at stock height, that's what I used. 

 

Rear shocks don't give you any lift, there would be blocks or extra leafs for that. The shock length just needs to be able to accommodate it (which the normal 5100s can do at stock height). 

Edited by MBSierra17
Posted
On 1/23/2019 at 9:29 AM, MBSierra17 said:

Could you take a picture of the contact you have? I've also got Bilstein 5100 at stock height with zone 4.5. I don't think I've got any contact like you're describing. 

The complete assembly removed ...  

MB -- the bump is under the rubber boot 

 

20190203_163120.jpg

Posted
On 2/3/2019 at 3:59 PM, Khalid123 said:

Good day guys,

 

i have a question regarding the bilstein 5100s i love the looks of the silver ones but i have read somewhere that the stock setting on rear shock wont be exactly oem as slight lift will be there, unlike the 4600s which will give exact oem height settings. Is that correct? Anyone tried checking on this?

Rear 5100’s provide zero lift. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 562 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...