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Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
in Modifications & Accessories

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papageoff Enthusiast

papageoff

Posted
Posted
Adding so little to the length of the strut would have minimal effect on the issues described.  As additional length is added to the strut, thus increasing the length of travel, alignment geometry and UCA issues occur.  With just the spring pre-load, length of travel and overall suspension design geometry stay the same, your just reducing the distance to the lower travel limit.
Exactly what I thought. Thanks

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bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

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bhales Enthusiast

bhales

Posted
Posted

ok so im about to pull the trigger on the 6112's/5100r in the next week or so.

i currently have a rc level and 285/60 20 ridge grapplers. the RG rub the crappy stamped UCA's and i want to replace them, so im debating if i should just wait a few weeks and do it all at the same time (dont want to buy it all in one week the wife might notice:) 

 

Question should i remove the RC level compeletly and just go with UCA's and the 6112's on top setting or leave the level and use the 6112's on stock height? 

Pivot Enthusiast

Pivot

Posted
Posted (edited)

Lots of variables. You running 9" width wheels, Offset? Those 285/60's are about 1/2" wider and taller than a wheel I'm looking at which I feel would be safe (no rub/trim). That wheel being 275/60/20 which is a 33" tire. I'm looking at Fuel Wheels with +20 offset. 

 

I've been researching the heck out of leveling options. About to pull the trigger on 6112/5100(r) also. The Bilsteins are designed to not require an upgrade on UCA. Used alone.... I have the stamped steel also. I don't want to use spacers up front with the coil overs. I guess you could keep the RC kit and run 6112's at lowest setting. 

 

If you pull everything apart and install 6112 up front and later go back and do it again. That would be (2) front end alignments, no? Some decent UCA's will run you $300-$500, (ball joint). No way I pull everything apart and then do it again in a couple weeks. Their is no definitive answer on rubbing. Ask 10 people and get 5 different answers. I do think you are pushing limits just a hair. 1/2" here, 1/2" there adds up. 

 

My biggest problem is I've stopped at some tire shops and really received some conflicting answers. Reminds me of shopping at the stealer ships . You walk in and ask a couple questions after researching options for a day or two and you know more than the sales guy and thats his job. GL

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Pivot
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bhales Enthusiast

bhales

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, Pivot said:

Lots of variables. You running 9" width wheels, Offset? Those 285/60's are about 1/2" wider and taller than a wheel I'm looking at which I feel would be safe (no rub/trim). That wheel being 275/60/20 which is a 33" tire. I'm looking at Fuel Wheels with +20 offset. 

 

I've been researching the heck out of leveling options. About to pull the trigger on 6112/5100(r) also. The Bilsteins are designed to not require an upgrade on UCA. Used alone.... I have the stamped steel also. I don't want to use spacers up front with the coil overs. I guess you could keep the RC kit and run 6112's at lowest setting. 

 

If you pull everything apart and install 6112 up front and later go back and do it again. That would be (2) front end alignments, no? Some decent UCA's will run you $300-$500, (ball joint). No way I pull everything apart and then do it again in a couple weeks. Their is no definitive answer on rubbing. Ask 10 people and get 5 different answers. I do think you are pushing limits just a hair. 1/2" here, 1/2" there adds up. 

 

My biggest problem is I've stopped at some tire shops and really received some conflicting answers. Reminds me of shopping at the stealer ships . You walk in and ask a couple questions after researching options for a day or two and you know more than the sales guy and thats his job. GL

 

factory snowflake 20's 

 

 

 

 

 

Pivot Enthusiast

Pivot

Posted
Posted

I have Factory 20" chrome. My 2017 has +27mm offset and I'm guessing then you are about the same. Someone will have to chime in that knows more than I, on offsets. Ideally , somebody that is running something similiar to what you have. I'll be pulling my stock wheels and back and forth between a 0 offset and +20. I should be good, but have plans on running a slightly smaller 33" tire. 

 

On my specific application, these are my plans. 6112 up front, 5100 in the back. Plan on pulling stock blocks in the back and installing 2". That should lift me 3/4" in rear.  20" wheels with +20 or 0 offset, 275/60/20 tires. I'll check my UCA's when done, but hoping to run with the stock. 

 

Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted
On 5/17/2019 at 12:21 PM, Pivot said:

I have Factory 20" chrome. My 2017 has +27mm offset and I'm guessing then you are about the same. Someone will have to chime in that knows more than I, on offsets. Ideally , somebody that is running something similiar to what you have. I'll be pulling my stock wheels and back and forth between a 0 offset and +20. I should be good, but have plans on running a slightly smaller 33" tire. 

 

On my specific application, these are my plans. 6112 up front, 5100 in the back. Plan on pulling stock blocks in the back and installing 2". That should lift me 3/4" in rear.  20" wheels with +20 or 0 offset, 275/60/20 tires. I'll check my UCA's when done, but hoping to run with the stock. 

 

I'm runningn 275/60r20 on 20x9 + 24. 1.25" front lift, .75" rear lift on my 2018.  I've read 1.85" front lift pushes these UCAs a little far and I really like the front and rear lift as it is.  

 

I have minor minor rubber occasionally when backing up and I've read it's the carpet liner and can be easily fixed but it happens so infrequently I haven't bothered.  

Pivot Enthusiast

Pivot

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Yondu said:

I'm runningn 275/60r20 on 20x9 + 24. 1.25" front lift, .75" rear lift on my 2018.  I've read 1.85" front lift pushes these UCAs a little far and I really like the front and rear lift as it is.  

 

I have minor minor rubber occasionally when backing up and I've read it's the carpet liner and can be easily fixed but it happens so infrequently I haven't bothered.  

Thx. Looking at the same. I'm surprised you have any rub. You maintained same width of stock tires. Assuming stock were 275/55/20 , which I have.  That +24 only pushes you away from suspension/frame, .12 inch. If I do the +20 it pushes me out a little over a 1/4 inch. If I do the +1 , it pushes me out a little over an inch.

 

I look down the side of my truck and my wheels are pretty close to flush right now.

 

I called Bilstein to verify part # and asked the rep if I would notice any difference between 3rd and 4th setting. He said no. It's designed to feel the same. Asked about change on UCA's and he said as long as your not doing spacers, the 5100 and 6112 are designed to work with stock UCA. Obviously, what he said regarding ride has been disputed back and forth.

 

There are so many variables when you start this. If your shocks are worn and need replacing, hell yes the Bilsteins are going to be nice. I have read a bunch of guys that swapped out new shocks on fresh truck and really liked them. Obviously they are a nice upgrade over stock.

 

Another thing that could throw people off is switching from P rated stock tire to a LT. 

 

I'm still a bit undeceided on 3rd or 4th setting. If I try and bump tire size a tad, I'll go 4th. I did order the 2" block to replace the stock rear blocks. 

 

I've also considered  a 17" wheel vs 20". You can save some pretty decent money dropping down wheel size. I would consider a 285/70/17 tire if I did that. I do think 17" leans more offroad and I worry they might not look good in a High Country in White , wth more than it's share of chrome.  Guys down south and especially in the West have it easy. In Vegas they had wheel shops with so many wheels on the wall, you'd just stand there like a kid in a candy store. It took a bit to take it all in. Everybody has custom wheels. On the east coast , not many guys are modding trucks. You have some shops with a couple sets all dusty on a rack. Have to pick something out on the internet which isn't easy.  All said and done , suspension, wheels and tires don't come cheap. You want it to look perfect or damn close. 

 

I have the 6112's on the way. I'm going to do everything at once and trying to select a wheel and tire combo. 

 

CamperD Enthusiast

CamperD

Posted
Posted

too good to be true?

 

I was quoted - install only for 5100's in the front only $175 - does this seem too low? It was quoted by a Kwik Kar location. 

4weight Enthusiast

4weight

Posted
Posted

Seems low, it will need to be aligned and honestly, there is not a dude at the Kwik Car i have gone to that I would trust doing that install.  

Pivot Enthusiast

Pivot

Posted
Posted
59 minutes ago, CamperD said:

too good to be true?

 

I was quoted - install only for 5100's in the front only $175 - does this seem too low? It was quoted by a Kwik Kar location. 

Sounds cheap to me. Most shops now charge close to $100 an hour. An experienced guy with lift, wall mounted compressor , could probably do it in 2 hours. Those guys probably don't work at Kwik Kar,  Plus KK is out to make money. Wonder if they are aware they need to pull existing coils and shock, harvest hardware and put back together, then reinstall?  I would hesitate to use those quik lube places for anything beyond dumping and adding fluids. Even then, I usually check their work when I get home. 

 

I'm going to need to find a place when my order arrives. Being I have a newer truck, I'm willing to pay a little more for a mechanic/shop that I can trust. Little things like proper torque settings, you'll want to reuse that stock center bolt on tophat some call king nut. Make sure it's noted exact setting you want assuming you are talking 5100 adjustables. Don't forget you will need an alignment when done. 

 

I'm not saying if you pay more, you get better work. I pretty much only go off referrals anymore. Way to many idiots out there doing shoddy work. 

Summit850 Enthusiast

Summit850

Posted
Posted
too good to be true?
 
I was quoted - install only for 5100's in the front only $175 - does this seem too low? It was quoted by a Kwik Kar location. 
I had mine done just a month ago. Came out to 200 with wheel alignment and taxes

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MRTMotorsports Enthusiast

MRTMotorsports

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, CamperD said:

too good to be true?

 

I was quoted - install only for 5100's in the front only $175 - does this seem too low? It was quoted by a Kwik Kar location. 

 

Thats a fair price! $150-250 is the range (plus alignment)

Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted

You can find independent shops that will swap out the shock only for about $40-$50, granted if you take the assembly out yourself and hand to them.

 

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted
On 5/17/2019 at 10:21 AM, Pivot said:

I have Factory 20" chrome. My 2017 has +27mm offset and I'm guessing then you are about the same. Someone will have to chime in that knows more than I, on offsets. Ideally , somebody that is running something similiar to what you have. I'll be pulling my stock wheels and back and forth between a 0 offset and +20. I should be good, but have plans on running a slightly smaller 33" tire. 

 

On my specific application, these are my plans. 6112 up front, 5100 in the back. Plan on pulling stock blocks in the back and installing 2". That should lift me 3/4" in rear.  20" wheels with +20 or 0 offset, 275/60/20 tires. I'll check my UCA's when done, but hoping to run with the stock. 

 

I was planning on 6112s up front and 5160s out back. I like the idea of a slight lift in the rear, do you have a part number for the block you're planning to use?

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