Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I have the 6112 kit on my 18 sierra 1500 now and method nv wheels sitting 0 offset 17x8.5

I'm kinda at a toss up for tire size. I'd really like to run 285/70r17 in either a toyo AT2 or Goodyear duratrac. Anyone running this combo in conjunction with the 5100 or 6112 set at its highest?

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

Posted
So I have the 6112 kit on my 18 sierra 1500 now and method nv wheels sitting 0 offset 17x8.5

I'm kinda at a toss up for tire size. I'd really like to run 285/70r17 in either a toyo AT2 or Goodyear duratrac. Anyone running this combo in conjunction with the 5100 or 6112 set at its highest?

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk




You shouldn't have any issues fitting that size. I fit 295/70r17 on a 2" level with some minor plastic trimming.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted


You shouldn't have any issues fitting that size. I fit 295/70r17 on a 2" level with some minor plastic trimming.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hmm I hope so I'm running mudflaps and not wanting to trim anything

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

Posted
On 8/10/2019 at 10:22 AM, Sierra Boy said:

One question I have on 5100 shocks, front & rear...can you put them on a stock truck without lifting? 2015i 2500 HD Z71 GMC

 

Stock tires/Rims.

 

Sierra Boy

Sure can!  They are adjustable (front strut assy) 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, aaronarf said:

Sure can!  They are adjustable (front strut assy) 

Thank you!

 

Sierra Boy

Posted
24 minutes ago, mbatzel14 said:

Hows the ride since you have EXACTLY the same front setup I will have come this weekend? Truck looks amazing. 

Just did it a few days ago and haven't drivin it much. One thing that is annoying me is it pulls to the left for some reason.

Gonna bring it back and have everything checked/tightened/realigned.

Posted

Just purchased the 6112's for the front and 5100's for the rear to replace the worn out Rancho's on my 2015 Sierra All Terrain with 70K miles. My question is, I like the leveling kit that I have and the stance so can I just set all the shock's to the lowest setting and continue on with the leveling kit??

 

I also purchased Rough Country UCA's made for leveling kits to help with the angle for less stress. 

 

I purchased the 6112's through Battle Born last week on the 6th. ..what is up with their shipping T/A??

"Now Shipping!! 105 In Stock As Of 8/1 - Please Allow 2 Weeks Shipping from Bilstein"

Posted
46 minutes ago, BowHunter1 said:

Just purchased the 6112's for the front and 5100's for the rear to replace the worn out Rancho's on my 2015 Sierra All Terrain with 70K miles. My question is, I like the leveling kit that I have and the stance so can I just set all the shock's to the lowest setting and continue on with the leveling kit??

 

I also purchased Rough Country UCA's made for leveling kits to help with the angle for less stress. 

 

I purchased the 6112's through Battle Born last week on the 6th. ..what is up with their shipping T/A??

"Now Shipping!! 105 In Stock As Of 8/1 - Please Allow 2 Weeks Shipping from Bilstein"

They're about 2 weeks out as stated. I ordered on the 29th, and they shipped yesterday exactly 2 weeks later.

Posted (edited)

I just ordered my 6112s from the warehouse in Richmond BC. Said they'd be here tomorrow. I have a set of Readylift tubular UCAs to go with them.

Edited by BigAL-evation1500
Posted
2 hours ago, Eneerge said:

I ordered mine on July 18th and they still haven't shipped.

Dang...…….and you ordered from Battle Born Offroad?? Have you called them to check on the status

Posted

Bilstein took 3 weeks to send my replacement set(first was broken right out of box) to 4wheelparts. I even called them directly after week 2 came around and was told there shouldn't be any reason for delay as they had 30 units in stock. You would think a company that has been in business for over 100 years would be on top of their game a little better. Least I was able to speak with a live person.

Posted

So, finally installed my 5100’s up front so I have them all the way around now. The truck definitely rides more planted now and handles bumps and potholes and rough roads a lot better. I chose to put the ride height at the 2nd setting which says 3/4” avg lift. I think that’s right about what I got, at least between that and an inch. And I wasn’t looking for much. Never really been interested in lifting or leveling and I don’t mind the rake usually because I haul a big ATV or tow multiples on a trailer. but it seems like the gm trucks have more than others. So before I had just over 3” of rake, and now I have just under 2-1/4”.

One thing I definitely noticed tho is that the steering really tightened up. I did an alignment at the same time and that’s right on, but when I’m at full lock left or right, I also noticed the front of the tires are rubbing on my UCA’s now and didn’t before. And this isn’t all that much lift.

So my question is: Is that normal, and to be expected? And is that gonna cause problems for the UCA’s/ tires in the long term? If so I’m probly gonna remove these and drop it back down to factory height cuz I already don’t like the way the steering feels, and to do damage over 3/4” front end lift isn’t worth it to me.

Thanks for any info, peeps!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
    • Engine Wear and ISO 4406   1.) Cold Starts. 2.) High Particle Count. 3.) Low operating temperature viscosity and high low temperature cranking viscosity. 4.) Depleted AW, Friction and Acid packages.  5.) High engine load.    https://me.caltexlubricants.com/en_me/home/learning/from-chevron/heavy-duty-diesel-vehicles-and-equipment/The-Importance-of-Clean-Engine-Oil-and-Its-Impact-on-Equipment-and-Business-Performance.html   High particle counts have five sources. 1.) They are manufactured within the engine. Both wear debris and amalgamation of degradation products and combustion driven soot (worse in GDI). 2.) They are ingested via intake air. Ever hear the best oil filter is a good air filter? 3.) They are entrained in the fuel. 4.) This one is insidious. They are introduced in 'fresh oil'. 5.) They are introduced during the oil change.   ISO 4406 is the test that measures and quantifies the combine effects of all of the above particle related issues. You can mitigate your way into multiples of engine life by being attentive to them all.    https://www.hyprofiltration.com/blog/is-new-oil-clean   (from the link above)    [Quote] What Is the Recommended ISO 4406 Cleanliness Code for New Oil?   A good upper limit for new oil cleanliness is 16/14/11 (ISO 4406). Typical new oil usually has ISO codes of 19/17/15 or worse, which is far too dirty for sensitive components. This can be a major cause of degradation and premature failure. [Close quote].     Source of graph: Machinery Lubrication (GM Study)  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...