Jump to content

Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

Well I have a strut failure. I forget how long its been, but i posted here when I installed them. Passenger front is bouncing like the black factories used to. Drivers still functions as designed. Spoke with 4 wheel parts and they will have someone ride and verify and inspect. I'll pull it and have it swapped. Will update. They say it'll be covered under bilstein warranty.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 2.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

Posted Images

18LT Enthusiast

18LT

Posted
Posted (edited)

I’m a little late to the party but after dealing with a slow leak on my truck I’m ready for new tires and a leveling kit but wanted to ask a couple tires. My truck is a 18 LT. I don’t go offroading I just want a little more clearance and bigger tire for northern MI winters. so I don’t need anything too hd which after reading seems like the 5100 will give me that along with a better ride. I know the fronts can go up to around 1.8”. Do the backs raise it at all? Or what do you guys use for the rear? Also where have you guys bought yours from I didn’t really see, the, on the bilstein website. Any input is appreciated. Also I read through a lot of the posts on here just looking for a little more info. 
 

infound this which looks like the front adjustable plus a strut spacer and 1” rear lift. But I imagine it doesn’t ride as good as without the strut spacer.

https://socalsupertrucks.com/bilstein-leveling-2-5-lift-5100-shocks-2014-2018-silverado-sierra-1500/

 

and these from bilsteinlifts.com is that the actual bilstein website? It says the rear shocks are 0-1”. Is rear adjustable also or what brings the rear up. 
https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/chevy-gmc/silverado-1500/14-17-chevygmc-silverado-1500sierra-1500-4wd-bilstein-5100-0-1-8-front-0-1-rear-lift-shocks/

 Sorry for all the questions Im sure they have been answered but I can’t find them. Just want to make sure I buy the right part

Edited by 18LT
ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted

Hi 18LT,

 

The fronts are adjustable, the rears are not. Having said that, the rears a made so that the can withstand it if you did raise the rear about an extra inch. Typically, raising the rear of your truck would be don with blocks at the rear axle. A 1 inch block is really two inches. You remove the original one inch block that came with the truck and replace it with the 2 incher, giving you 1 inch of lift in the rear. I left my rear stock.

 

Regarding the fronts: only use the built in adjustments. Do not then also add a spacer to the fronts. I went with the highest setting and I think it looks good. Be aware that when you do that, sometimes the front might seem higher than the back. It isnt, but it might look like that to the eye. I added a leer cap to mine, that's almost a couple hundred pounds. If I then load the bed up with tools and camping gear, or some other heavy thing, it can sink down a bit and look a little foot-high. If you have the ability to, you may want to experiment putting it on the setting one down from the top, depending on what you like, and what you typically carry or tow.

 

I got mine from a dealer in the Jeep forums because I also have an old Grand Cherokee and I bought stuff for that through him. He will give you the best deal he can

 

His name is Nick, but he goes by Kolak.

Reach him at [email protected]

Tell him that the guy from Boston, who knows where he got "Kolak" from, sent you

  • Thanks 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, ThundahBeagle said:

 Having said that, the rears a made so that the can withstand it if you did raise the rear about an extra inch.

Exercise. Extended length minus compressed length is stroke length. 50-60% of that number is a shocks designed static stance dimension. IF you do run this exercise on a stock shock you will find that you have 9 inches of stroke but measurement on the truck unloaded will reveal the shock is 3-1/2 inches ABOVE center! Why? Because the rear shock on a pickup is fitted to be in the 50-60% of stroke range when it is at it's maximum carry load. This also means the when the truck is empty there is nearly zero rebound stroke left. 

 

They may allow an extra inch of ride height but will still be nearly topped out at rest and that extra length won't move the compression bumper any further away. 

  • Thanks 1
ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted

Hi Grumpy Bear

 

I have no reason to doubt your math and engineering on that. You do mention stock shocks, however. The Bilstein is a replacement to the stock shock, so I'm guessing it's designed with more stroke? They state it is designed for 0 to 1 inch of lift, so I can only presume that they have accounted for all of that?

 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, ThundahBeagle said:

Hi Grumpy Bear

 

I have no reason to doubt your math and engineering on that. You do mention stock shocks, however. The Bilstein is a replacement to the stock shock, so I'm guessing it's designed with more stroke? They state it is designed for 0 to 1 inch of lift, so I can only presume that they have accounted for all of that?

 

I encourage you to take or get the measurements. If you take them at their face value that would mean a shock with 5" or so more stroke. Is it? Is it really 5 inches longer that stock? Or is it a shock with 1" more stroke? 

 

I use Kings on the rear of mine and they make the same claim but the truth is that shock is exactly the same length at the stock unit with the exact same measured stroke. 21" OAL. 

 

Just say' n. Don't take my word, their word or anyone else. The measurements and math are to simple to get yourself. 

 

For a guy who hauls allot of tows allot at or near maximums this matter not but if you run empty allot you can gain some rebound distance removing the factory block at minimum. It won't put you at center but it is an improvement you will notice on drop off's like pot holes.  

  • 2 weeks later...
stevejones Enthusiast

stevejones

Posted
Posted

I went with the 5100's on the 3rd notch, then replaced the factory Michelins with 265/70 Generals - so up a very slight 1/2" with the tires.  Nothing radical, but I like the look & road manners with this combo.

Trouble_shooting Enthusiast

Trouble_shooting

Posted
Posted
On 11/11/2020 at 10:18 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

Exercise. Extended length minus compressed length is stroke length. 50-60% of that number is a shocks designed static stance dimension. IF you do run this exercise on a stock shock you will find that you have 9 inches of stroke but measurement on the truck unloaded will reveal the shock is 3-1/2 inches ABOVE center! Why? Because the rear shock on a pickup is fitted to be in the 50-60% of stroke range when it is at it's maximum carry load. This also means the when the truck is empty there is nearly zero rebound stroke left. 

 

They may allow an extra inch of ride height but will still be nearly topped out at rest and that extra length won't move the compression bumper any further away. 

I went through a similar exercise of math when outfitting my rear axle.  I ended up using Monroe Load adjusting shock part#: 58640 vs the Chevy spec. part#: 58648

  The #58640 are actually spec. to a 2006 Dodge Ram.  Dimensions though, allowed darn near 2” additional up travel.  While only losing  about a 1/4” down travel.  The GM is 14mm eye compared to Dodge 9/16”
 

Bonus is, it lifted the rear about a 1” and firmed up the rear end.  I now have installed 2 other sets on fellow K2XX owners and so far so good.

 

  • Like 2
Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted
I went through a similar exercise of math when outfitting my rear axle.  I ended up using Monroe Load adjusting shock part#: 58640 vs the Chevy spec. part#: 58648
  The #58640 are actually spec. to a 2006 Dodge Ram.  Dimensions though, allowed darn near 2” additional up travel.  While only losing  about a 1/4” down travel.  The GM is 14mm eye compared to Dodge 9/16”
 
Bonus is, it lifted the rear about a 1” and firmed up the rear end.  I now have installed 2 other sets on fellow K2XX owners and so far so good.
 
Interesting. Does this make the back more smooth or just add more travel. How did you deal with mounting bolts? Thanks.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Trouble_shooting Enthusiast

Trouble_shooting

Posted
Posted
14 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Interesting. Does this make the back more smooth or just add more travel. How did you deal with mounting bolts? Thanks.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

The ride didn’t change much, a little less squat when loaded.  One of the sets that I installed were on my wife’s truck.  She didn’t notice a difference, in ride quality.  
 

As for bolts, I used the factory bolts tighten to factory spec.  No noticeable play or unusual sounds.

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
CbrownGT Enthusiast

CbrownGT

Posted
Posted

Been trying to comb through this and utilize search function but..anyone with a 16-18 with stamped steel UCA’s running the 5100’s up front at settings 2, 3, or 4 and a stock 20 inch rim with a 33 inch tire (275/60/20 specifically) and have zero or minimal rubbing on UCA?  Having a hard time finding answers on this 

jimbrown1 Enthusiast

jimbrown1

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, CbrownGT said:

Been trying to comb through this and utilize search function but..anyone with a 16-18 with stamped steel UCA’s running the 5100’s up front at settings 2, 3, or 4 and a stock 20 inch rim with a 33 inch tire (275/60/20 specifically) and have zero or minimal rubbing on UCA?  Having a hard time finding answers on this 

I have this setup but I left the front shocks at stock setting and used a Rugged Off-road spacer.  This is on a 2018 Sierra Crew Cab.  No rubbing with the 275/60/20 BFG tires.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
    • kickass audio
      Software Update

      By kickass audio · Posted

      when it's greyed out that is it's way of telling you that it's downloading the patch in the background. Eventually it will be fully downloaded and then it will prompt you at ignition shut down to run the update. I highly recommend doing the update once you get home and can run it a few times. I've had several issues with updates not going the first time around and I had to retry the update multiple times in my driveway before it was successful.   Some updates are huge and take awhile to download. You can help it by connecting to your home WiFi and keep the truck on service mode for the ignition and keep it alive for awhile on a battery charger too. There are specs it needs to be in for updating such as a full enough battery charge, no running ignition, etc.
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am not techy at all but wondered if you have the truck running but sitting still in park as some functions gray out as soon as the truck is moving. I believe in the settings for updates you can choose for it NOT to update and I wonder by chance if maybe that was chosen before and now it won't allow you to chose to press update, I think that is back in the settings menu where it has all the items one wants on or off etc. Also I assume you have a wifi connection and checked that it has some signal strength, not that it would have anything to do with the grayed out updates choice in that case. What I am thinking out loud of here may be be of no value but thought I would suggest it, sometimes it can be the simplest thing that resolves an issue.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...